Missing IMRC linkage
Dekeman
03-14-2011, 12:00 PM
I've scrubbed the threads on the broken IMRC linkage problem. What I have not been able to find is a diagram or picture of how it is to be reassembled, what position is closed and what position is open. I know that the open position is default, and should be open when the engine is off. It should be closed while idling, then it opens over ~3k RPM. Thus, if I reattach the linkage, in which position do the actuators need to be when reattaching? Also, how do I attach it to the actuator?
Also, I was able to recover the longer rod with multiple bends, but the straight short rod is missing. No joy on ebay. What are my options for this actuator rod without buying the entire actuator assembly?
Also, I was able to recover the longer rod with multiple bends, but the straight short rod is missing. No joy on ebay. What are my options for this actuator rod without buying the entire actuator assembly?
tempfixit
03-14-2011, 01:01 PM
I've scrubbed the threads on the broken IMRC linkage problem. What I have not been able to find is a diagram or picture of how it is to be reassembled, what position is closed and what position is open. I know that the open position is default, and should be open when the engine is off. It should be closed while idling, then it opens over ~3k RPM. Thus, if I reattach the linkage, in which position do the actuators need to be when reattaching? Also, how do I attach it to the actuator?
Also, I was able to recover the longer rod with multiple bends, but the straight short rod is missing. No joy on ebay. What are my options for this actuator rod without buying the entire actuator assembly?
Dekeman, this video should help you on the positions.
http://realfixesrealfast.com/realfixesrealfast.com/Codes/Pages/Windstar_MIRC_Codes.html
hope this helps
Also, I was able to recover the longer rod with multiple bends, but the straight short rod is missing. No joy on ebay. What are my options for this actuator rod without buying the entire actuator assembly?
Dekeman, this video should help you on the positions.
http://realfixesrealfast.com/realfixesrealfast.com/Codes/Pages/Windstar_MIRC_Codes.html
hope this helps
grog11
03-14-2011, 01:07 PM
Is the 2000 yr. IMRC an electronic or vacuum operated actuator? You should be able to easily find a replacement rod at a pick-n-pull junkyard. There is usually many to choose from.
Dekeman
03-14-2011, 07:53 PM
Dekeman, this video should help you on the positions.
http://realfixesrealfast.com/realfixesrealfast.com/Codes/Pages/Windstar_MIRC_Codes.html
hope this helps
Great vid- thanks! I've seen that guy on a couple of other vids too. Though my van has the electronic actuator instead of the vacuum-operated one, it's a good view of how it works.
Is the 2000 yr. IMRC an electronic or vacuum operated actuator? You should be able to easily find a replacement rod at a pick-n-pull junkyard. There is usually many to choose from.
See above. Good idea- I need to find one of those places around here. I wonder if there's a way to test the electronic actuator box?
http://realfixesrealfast.com/realfixesrealfast.com/Codes/Pages/Windstar_MIRC_Codes.html
hope this helps
Great vid- thanks! I've seen that guy on a couple of other vids too. Though my van has the electronic actuator instead of the vacuum-operated one, it's a good view of how it works.
Is the 2000 yr. IMRC an electronic or vacuum operated actuator? You should be able to easily find a replacement rod at a pick-n-pull junkyard. There is usually many to choose from.
See above. Good idea- I need to find one of those places around here. I wonder if there's a way to test the electronic actuator box?
ric8701
03-23-2011, 10:19 PM
I have a 2000. I know that when the car is not running both IRMC levers on the manifold are in the down position... lever meets the stop on the engine, if that helps you or makes sense. Also I just replaced all those cheap plastic bushings on the arms because both of my arms fell off since the original bushings were all cracked and not working . I bought Dorman 47099 parts from advance auto for $2.88. This is a pack of 5 for that price. My Ford dealer wanted $6.75 for ONE! I recommend the Dorman for the price and they worked great. The Dorman package even states that it replaces OE F5RZ9F955AB which are the original Ford part # for these bushings. If you need/want a replacement actuator the Ford Part number is XF229559AA Hope that helps....... Ric
Dekeman
03-27-2011, 09:38 PM
Thanks for the part number and info. I still need to go to a pick-and-pluck salvage place to find the other arm, then figure out if the actuator actually works. Any ideas on how to do that?
ric8701
03-27-2011, 11:39 PM
I am not an auto mechanic but if you rev the engine and have someone look at the IMRC lever arms they should move at high rpms (above 4000 rpms+)... it should be that simple. Test/inspect the fuse first/ Let me know if that helps you. Also the IMRC arms should be easy to pick up at a junk yard I would suspect. I do not know the part numbers for those.
Dekeman
03-28-2011, 07:29 AM
I am not an auto mechanic but if you rev the engine and have someone look at the IMRC lever arms they should move at high rpms (above 4000 rpms+)... it should be that simple. Test/inspect the fuse first/ Let me know if that helps you. Also the IMRC arms should be easy to pick up at a junk yard I would suspect. I do not know the part numbers for those.
Can you see the arms moving behind the actuator? They're on the back side of the acutator housing, and they're tucked in there pretty good. I can't see the arms in there when it's off or idling.
Can you see the arms moving behind the actuator? They're on the back side of the acutator housing, and they're tucked in there pretty good. I can't see the arms in there when it's off or idling.
ric8701
03-28-2011, 10:05 AM
Can you see the arms moving behind the actuator? They're on the back side of the acutator housing, and they're tucked in there pretty good. I can't see the arms in there when it's off or idling.
The arm that controls the front you cna not see, hwoever the one that controls the rear is visible if you look at the top of the control. You should see a flat metal piece that sticks up with a square hole in it (that is where the bushing should be). That is the "arm"...
The arm that controls the front you cna not see, hwoever the one that controls the rear is visible if you look at the top of the control. You should see a flat metal piece that sticks up with a square hole in it (that is where the bushing should be). That is the "arm"...
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