2002 3.8L 171, 174 AFTER TBS along with other codes
livewiregnat
02-27-2011, 11:33 PM
I was given my Windstar last year from my Grandfather. It came with the lovely CEL on and it burned oil moderately. In June we needed to get the plates over and did a full TSB fix to it and gave it a full tune up including replacing the fuel filter and EGR sensor.
3 days later the light came back on and has been on since. These are the codes I'm getting:
0304 Cylinder Misfire
0302 Cylinder Misfire
0171
0174
0136 O2 Circuit Bank 1 Sensor 2
It is going through oil at ridiculous speeds now and I've noticed a small leak. It rattles while going up hill (I think it has something to do with the power steering because I have to refill it once a month). It idles roughly and has died shortly after start up. Today on my way to work I lost acceleration and the CEL began flashing. I've searched as much as I possibly could on this forum as to what my next step should be and I'm lost. I apologize for the 171,174 post but I just can't bare to think that I would have to replace all of that again within a years time. I would also like to know if running a fuel injector cleaner would help.
Bare in mind my knowledge with cars ends with oil changes, air filters, and tires. If I didn't need this van to transport my family I would roll it into the river.
Thanks for bearing with me and my frustration.:banghead:
3 days later the light came back on and has been on since. These are the codes I'm getting:
0304 Cylinder Misfire
0302 Cylinder Misfire
0171
0174
0136 O2 Circuit Bank 1 Sensor 2
It is going through oil at ridiculous speeds now and I've noticed a small leak. It rattles while going up hill (I think it has something to do with the power steering because I have to refill it once a month). It idles roughly and has died shortly after start up. Today on my way to work I lost acceleration and the CEL began flashing. I've searched as much as I possibly could on this forum as to what my next step should be and I'm lost. I apologize for the 171,174 post but I just can't bare to think that I would have to replace all of that again within a years time. I would also like to know if running a fuel injector cleaner would help.
Bare in mind my knowledge with cars ends with oil changes, air filters, and tires. If I didn't need this van to transport my family I would roll it into the river.
Thanks for bearing with me and my frustration.:banghead:
olopezm
02-28-2011, 12:09 AM
Hello livewiregnat,
Welcome to the forum,
Both 171/174 codes are set when the engine is running lean and very likely mean you have a vacuum leak somewhere; you mentioned you did a TSB which I'm guessing was the Isolator bolt fix.
Are you sure everything was properly assembled and torqued?
When you disconnect the battery it takes some miles until the PCM learns all values and sets any DTC's in the system which is why you got it after 3 days.
The 304/302 are cylinder misfires in cylinder 4 and 2 respectively; if I remember correctly (someone correct me if I'm wrong) these correspond to the same coil (plugs are fired in pairs) and would likely mean you have either a damaged or bad coil pack or something wasn't properly connected when you did the TSB.
The p0136 means your oxygen sensor has a low voltage condition, this can be due to a bad connection on the sensor, damaged sensor or non of the other and this code has only be set because of the lean condition, I would fix the others first.
The engine knocking is very likely because of the cylinder misfires which cause to engine to be forced, you're literally running on 4 cylinders instead of 6, sort of... Another possibility is the type of fuel you're using, after fixing the misfires and if the knocking persist I would switch to a higher octane fuel.
The rough running and dying must be due to the vacuum leak, which can lead to the oil loss you're having too just like the loss of acceleration; it doesn't matters how much you floor it the van would just not move, right?.
Best regards,
Oscar.
Welcome to the forum,
Both 171/174 codes are set when the engine is running lean and very likely mean you have a vacuum leak somewhere; you mentioned you did a TSB which I'm guessing was the Isolator bolt fix.
Are you sure everything was properly assembled and torqued?
When you disconnect the battery it takes some miles until the PCM learns all values and sets any DTC's in the system which is why you got it after 3 days.
The 304/302 are cylinder misfires in cylinder 4 and 2 respectively; if I remember correctly (someone correct me if I'm wrong) these correspond to the same coil (plugs are fired in pairs) and would likely mean you have either a damaged or bad coil pack or something wasn't properly connected when you did the TSB.
The p0136 means your oxygen sensor has a low voltage condition, this can be due to a bad connection on the sensor, damaged sensor or non of the other and this code has only be set because of the lean condition, I would fix the others first.
The engine knocking is very likely because of the cylinder misfires which cause to engine to be forced, you're literally running on 4 cylinders instead of 6, sort of... Another possibility is the type of fuel you're using, after fixing the misfires and if the knocking persist I would switch to a higher octane fuel.
The rough running and dying must be due to the vacuum leak, which can lead to the oil loss you're having too just like the loss of acceleration; it doesn't matters how much you floor it the van would just not move, right?.
Best regards,
Oscar.
olopezm
02-28-2011, 12:12 AM
I forgot to say the coil pack is known to crack at the back of it, I don't know if your model is still affected by this condition but I would take a look at it just to be sure.
livewiregnat
02-28-2011, 12:30 AM
I will have a friend look at the upper plenum and the isolator bolts again. We had told the guy who did everything on the TSB-3-16 that we thought the coil should be replaced after the misfire codes came back. How difficult is the coil to get to on the 2002? My Haynes book only shows a 1995 model. I'm also going to look at the switch under my brake fluid since my cruise control went out not long ago with all the flashing brake lights. Thanks so much for your fast response hopefully I can get some rest now tonight. I'll update this as we try your suggestions.:wink:
olopezm
02-28-2011, 11:23 AM
You're welcome,
The coil pack is not that hard to replace, it is on the back of the engine, you can try and remove it by reaching with your hands or you can remove the wiper cowl and remove the coil. If you remove the cowl you can inspect the ignition wires and rest of the components at the back just as a preventative measure.
If the Brake Pressure Switch hasn't been replaced with the new style it's very likely to be the cause of your cruise control not working.
Best regards,
Oscar.
The coil pack is not that hard to replace, it is on the back of the engine, you can try and remove it by reaching with your hands or you can remove the wiper cowl and remove the coil. If you remove the cowl you can inspect the ignition wires and rest of the components at the back just as a preventative measure.
If the Brake Pressure Switch hasn't been replaced with the new style it's very likely to be the cause of your cruise control not working.
Best regards,
Oscar.
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