anyone gotten a rebuilt ABS ecm?
parkerb
02-21-2011, 05:26 PM
if so, from who, how much, what guarantee, and how long has it been back in operation? and any concern over this "calibration necessary" mention the service manual mentions?
tia,
parker
tia,
parker
phil-l
02-22-2011, 05:50 AM
Parker -
I got a new-from-Ford ABS ECM for my '00 Windstar LX (I don't believe it was rebuilt), and installed it without problem. Several years later, it's still fine. ABS-assisted stops work as expected. I purchased it on-line through the Team Ford Parts web site. Curiously, there was a core charge associated with the module - so my old one went back to Ford. I'm not sure if they actually rebuild old modules.
Yes, I purchased the electronics module by itself - without the hydraulic portion. This means I was able to fix my van's ABS problem without bleeding any brake lines. It can be done. Some pictures from my project:
http://good-times.webshots.com/album/575113025YrtncQ
No, I did not perform the calibration transfer procedure. At the end, my van's original module was so confused I doubt any data could have been pulled from it. As I understand it, the idea is that the module learns vehicle-specific settings during normal vehicle use. This data can be transferred to the new module, to shorten the learning time. Of course, this presumes that the old module still has some level of functionality - and hasn't malfunctioned to the point that its learned data is useless.
So: I view the calibration transfer procedure as a neat idea that rarely works out in real life. In my experience, the new module is perfectly capable of calibrating itself over time. Of course, this is by design: How would a shop transfer calibration if the original module had been destroyed or missing? They can't. The ABS system is designed to allow for this.
Note: The biggest challenge in replacing my module was separating the electronic and hydraulic portions of the ABS unit without damage. The hydraulic portion is made mostly of aluminum - and uses steel fasteners to attach the electronic module. This means - given where the unit is located under the van - there's almost certainly corrosion that makes it difficult to remove the fasteners without breaking them. As it turns out, I took a roundabout way to learn this: Early on in my problem research process, I bought a used ABS unit on eBay. Of course, it had already failed in the same way my original module failed. However, it wasn't a wasted purchase: I spent quality time disassembling and learning from the dead eBay unit, and it gave me the confidence (and a few spare fasteners) to successfully separate the two portions of the unit on my van.
Standard disclaimer: It worked for me - but it might not work for you. I only share this because I believe it might be useful, not because I claim to understand your situation. Automotive brake work has safety implications; make sure you understand what you're doing before you do it. I can't take responsibility for your mistakes.
Later edit:
Yet more pictures: Before determining that I needed to replace my ABS electronics, I checked and cleaned the ABS sensors and connectors:
http://good-times.webshots.com/album/559769331GYPtlJ
I got a new-from-Ford ABS ECM for my '00 Windstar LX (I don't believe it was rebuilt), and installed it without problem. Several years later, it's still fine. ABS-assisted stops work as expected. I purchased it on-line through the Team Ford Parts web site. Curiously, there was a core charge associated with the module - so my old one went back to Ford. I'm not sure if they actually rebuild old modules.
Yes, I purchased the electronics module by itself - without the hydraulic portion. This means I was able to fix my van's ABS problem without bleeding any brake lines. It can be done. Some pictures from my project:
http://good-times.webshots.com/album/575113025YrtncQ
No, I did not perform the calibration transfer procedure. At the end, my van's original module was so confused I doubt any data could have been pulled from it. As I understand it, the idea is that the module learns vehicle-specific settings during normal vehicle use. This data can be transferred to the new module, to shorten the learning time. Of course, this presumes that the old module still has some level of functionality - and hasn't malfunctioned to the point that its learned data is useless.
So: I view the calibration transfer procedure as a neat idea that rarely works out in real life. In my experience, the new module is perfectly capable of calibrating itself over time. Of course, this is by design: How would a shop transfer calibration if the original module had been destroyed or missing? They can't. The ABS system is designed to allow for this.
Note: The biggest challenge in replacing my module was separating the electronic and hydraulic portions of the ABS unit without damage. The hydraulic portion is made mostly of aluminum - and uses steel fasteners to attach the electronic module. This means - given where the unit is located under the van - there's almost certainly corrosion that makes it difficult to remove the fasteners without breaking them. As it turns out, I took a roundabout way to learn this: Early on in my problem research process, I bought a used ABS unit on eBay. Of course, it had already failed in the same way my original module failed. However, it wasn't a wasted purchase: I spent quality time disassembling and learning from the dead eBay unit, and it gave me the confidence (and a few spare fasteners) to successfully separate the two portions of the unit on my van.
Standard disclaimer: It worked for me - but it might not work for you. I only share this because I believe it might be useful, not because I claim to understand your situation. Automotive brake work has safety implications; make sure you understand what you're doing before you do it. I can't take responsibility for your mistakes.
Later edit:
Yet more pictures: Before determining that I needed to replace my ABS electronics, I checked and cleaned the ABS sensors and connectors:
http://good-times.webshots.com/album/559769331GYPtlJ
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