2000 won't start-fuel pump???

Battery is new-has proper voltage. Lights all on, etc. Hubby said he does not hear the fuel pump coming on-perhaps a relay?

If we had to replace the actual pump, how difficult a job is this for a novice? Anyone have a guesstimate as to how much a mechanic charges to replace one? Kinda scared to find out....

Has he checked the fuel pump fuse? On the 2000, it should be number 5 in the power distribution box (in the engine bay). I would test it, not just visually check it.

Has he checked the fuel pump fuse? On the 2000, it should be number 5 in the power distribution box (in the engine bay). I would test it, not just visually check it.

If the fuse is good, just for the heck of it tap on the gas tank with a rubber mallet or 2x4. Sometimes the jarring of the tank will knock loose a frozen pump and work again but will still need to be replaced.


Seems to me someone just had their fuel pump changed on this forum and was charged $980 which to me is excessive.

Go to autozone.com and look under their repair online manual for your vehicle and that should have a procedure for replacing fuel pump.

Battery is new-has proper voltage. Lights all on, etc. Hubby said he does not hear the fuel pump coming on-perhaps a relay?

If we had to replace the actual pump, how difficult a job is this for a novice? Anyone have a guesstimate as to how much a mechanic charges to replace one? Kinda scared to find out....

Previous poster said his mechanic charged him $890 for it. http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=1052524

I changed mine myself. The part will cost you around $160-$200, depending on what you get. They sell just the pump, or you can buy the entire assy. Personally, I suggest the entire assy.

Here's the job in a nutshell

1. Raise the rear of the vehicle as high as possible (and safe). I used a hydraulic jack and 6 ton jack stands.

2. The tank is located near the middle of the van. (middle to rear of the van is probably more accurate). It is held in place by three large metal bands. Two bands go from passenger to driver side. One band goes the opposite direction. Those bands will need to be unbolted. Only one side is bolted...the other sits in a notch in the metal. You'll understand when you see it. In order to remove the band, you'll unbolt it, rotate the band 90 degrees and it'll come right. Easy once you see it.

3. You'll need two people under the car (or at least an additional shop jack...although a person is preferred). They will hold the tank up while you remove the final band. The tank can then be lowered. It'll drop lower on the passengers side due to the location of the filler tube.

4. The pump is located on the top of the tank. It is held into place by a large plastic or metal ring. You can use a smaller hammer and flat head screwdriver to rotate the ring and unscrew it. Once it's unscrewed, the pump pulls out through the top.

5. The electrical connection is routed over toward the front of the vehicle. The pump has about a 4' leader on it. The fuel connectors will most likely break when you remove them, but the new pump should come with them. Check before you leave the parts store. If they don't, buy some. They are cheap and not having them will halt the project. You can pry up on the white plastic fuel connector and it should come out. I use a large flat head screwdriver. Going back in, you can preinstall the white connector and then simply press the fuel line onto the connector. It'll snap into place.

6. Put the new pump into the tank and ensure that the rubber gasket is sitting flat on the lip. Be careful and don't allow it to drop in the tank...you'll have to fish it out if you do.

7. Reinstall the large retaining ring that you removed during removal and use the hammer and screwdriver to tighten it back up.

8. Lift the tank back into place and resecure the metal bands.

9. Lower the car and you're done.

All in all, it took me and my twin brother about 1 1/2 hours to complete the task and we didn't have any specialized tools or equipment. (Other than the shop floor jack)

One thing to note is that the tank can be heavy, depending on how much fuel is in it. A full tank may require two people under the vehicle to support the weight and to lift it back into position. (three people total for the job)

I'd do it again if the mechanic told me it'd be $1,000. It was straight forward and MUCH cheaper.

Mark

P.S. Before you go do that, have you checked the inertia switch in the back of the van. It's located in the emergency jack panel in the back. remove the jack and it's behind it. It's a small black box with a red button. It's designed to trip if your car gets hit. You can whack it with a screwdriver and it should trip. You can reset it and see if that fixes it. I'd try that first, but my money is on your pump. Good luck.

Check the fuel pump relay at the engine compartment, I remember reading in the forum about many users having problems with it. The contacts can become corroded or the relay can stick itself...

Best regards,

Oscar.

Ok, so here's the latest. We changed the fuel pump relay-and the van started. I noticed that when I would drive it though, it was not running smooth like it normally does. I noticed my RPM's going higher than I believe they should be and when trying to accelerate from 15-20mph, there was some hesitation.

Today, we drove the family to the grocery store, did ok. Got done and went to start the van, and it was the most awful noise ever. Hubby turned the key and there was a bunch of sputtering and clunking, for lack of better words, and the lights on the dash went crazy too.

Anyone have any idea about this? Still wondering if it isn't the fuel pump. Would changing the fuel filter help? I just don't have the money to send if off to our mechanic. That $900 scares me! I wish I had a suburban right about now to haul all 5 of my kiddos around!

Any help is so appreciated.

Always good to keep the fuel filter changed as a restricted fuel filter makes the fuel pump work much harder.

Another thing to check is the battery and battery connections.
The terminals can build up corrosion and cause a significant voltage drop.
Also check where the battery cable connects down by the starter.
Voltage issues can cause some of the problems you mention.

The PCM power relay also feeds the fuel pump.