01 stalling at 45 mph

Happened to my wife today, driving 45 mph about 35 degrees outside, said was running the hear and rear heat full blast, and engine died while driving pushing on accelerator.

I don't have a lot of time to read these forums, so forgive me for posting this without reading similar stalling issues.

Did the isolator bolt fix, and have cleaned the IAC and MAF frequently, but not lately, Changed the plugs about 2 years ago with the 100K type, but haven't changed the fuel filter yet.

No codes are being thrown.

New battery last month, replaced the alternator about 4 months ago...

EDIT::: van was also bucking under load both at low speeds and 45 ish....

HELP

CHeck the fuel presure with a gauge. Spray some starting fluid in the air cleaner and see if it starts, if it does you have a fuel delivery problem. Very Possible bad fuel pump in the tank.

Ok, I have read a lot of posts, and want to check my fuel pump and pcm relays, possibly just replace, and inspect coil pack, wires, and vacuumm hoses for leaks or loose connections, plus check the battery connections, and ground.....

I don't think it is related to IAC, but I may remove and clean that and the MAF

Forgot to mention 150,000 on the odo.

fuel pump and relay can become intermittent.
I would replace the fuel pump and PCM relays, not expensive and easy.
Fuel pump.....more money and a LOT more trouble to replace.
Some have reported using a mallet and thumping the fuel tank to get the fuel pump to work......of course if thumping gets it to work.....the FIRST thing I would be doing is getting the fuel pump changed.

UPDATE: I drove it 40 miles this morning.

Here is what it did for me.

Idled great. No problem until I was going up incline and gave it a little extra gas.... under load.... starting bucking. I noticed the dash display for the miles left on tank of gas, and avg MPH, temp, etc, dimmed just before the bucking, and all other lights were fine....

Happened about 4-5 times each time going up hill, or incline and once it started bucking I had to let off to smooth it out. If I anticipated the hill and got on the gas soon enough and gave it a steady hard supply with high rpm, it was fine. Seemed to be if I waited until the hill slowed the car, and then gave it a little extra gas it was bogging down... and sputtering.

Last night I checked for Igit. Coil arcing (in the dark) and cracks, and visually inspected the hoses and wiring harnesses as best I could, and really didn't see much.

I'm going to throw this in here as my 2 cents.

Have you had the transmission checked? Stumbling under load.....could be transmission/torque converter issues.

I'm going to throw this in here as my 2 cents.

Have you had the transmission checked? Stumbling under load.....could be transmission/torque converter issues.

I am pretty sure it is fuel delivery related because I can let off the gas a little and there is no problem, the car is shifting and staying in gear just fine.

If I drive lightly, there is no issue....

You may want to hook up a fuel pressure gauge and tape it to the windshield wiper, attach it some how so you can drive the vehicle and observe the fuel pressure from the fuel pump when problem occurs. Have you checked the fuel pressure regulator for any sign of leakage, fuel in vaccum line?

Does it matter if the engine is cold or warm??

Unfortunately I don't have a gauge, and it looks like they are around $50.

I drove it again this morning. Seems to happen after engine warms up (after about 10 min. ) It hasn't stalled on me, but it is bucking, but only during certain ideal times like going up slight incline, in third gear/ OD, and situations where I have to give it extra gas.... when it buck, the display on my right fades in and out as it is happening. This seemed to happen before i did the TSB for the P0171 codes, but it had a knocking noise or gas pinging noise, and now this time there is no apparent noise.

Sometimes now when I give it a lot of gas say from 30-50 over 2,000rpm it will struggle slightly, but the going up an incline is always worse, it really starts bucking, hesitating....

I think I am going to replace the fuel filter this weekend, and maybe throw some money at some cheap sensors or relays... not sure yet...

Do you have a autozone, oriely's, etc parts house access available, if so they should have a fuel pressure tester in their loan a tool program (Pay deposit on tool and get the money back when the tool is returned)

Harbor freight also has them for about 15 bucks.

Personally I would monitor the fuel pressure before throwing money at it,

Changing the fuel filter is a good first step.

That is a great idea.... i didn't think of the loan a tool....

I will look at the manual, but am I right that I am looking for the schraeder valve to hook up to?

Also, once hooked up I have to drive around with it hooked right.... If i see the pressure drop when the problem is happening that will tell me what?

That is a great idea.... i didn't think of the loan a tool....

I will look at the manual, but am I right that I am looking for the schraeder valve to hook up to?

Also, once hooked up I have to drive around with it hooked right.... If i see the pressure drop when the problem is happening that will tell me what?

Yes I believe there should be a schraeder valve to hook gauge too.

Yes I would drive it around the same route you have been using with the uphill climbs and such so it duplicates the bucking you are experiencing, if pressure drops means that pump is overheating and not pumping the fuel you need to run engine. SHould maintain 30 psi from what I have read.

Have you checked your fuel pressure regulator for any vacuum in the line?

I spoke with a guy at work I trust, (he is a Ford man - Mustang, Bronco, F150, etc) and his suggestion was it was ignition related. Check wires, and ignition coil. Car has original wires and coil.

I had a 96 Explorer that had a cracked ignition coil, and it was causing the same bucking, under similar situations.

Having to do something fast, I ordered a Motorcraft Ignit. coil for only $43 new on ebay today (half price)

I know that may have been premature, but hell the van has 150K on the odo, and if it doesn't fix the problem I could probably resell on Ebay for $40...

Another thing you could try is if you have a heat gun heat up the coil while emgine is cold and see if that affects the performance.

The coil issue seems to be pretty common on the '01 time period.
If you put the new one in.....I would LEAVE it in.
Taking it back out is extra work....and extra handling of the spark plug wires.....extra chance to cause more problems.

Fuel filter is a routine maintenance item.......a restricted fuel filter puts an additional load onto the fuel pump.
Remember that the fuel system holds pressure for a long time......and even after releasing the pressure at the schaeder valve (using a rag to catch the fuel that sprays out)......you can STILL get a lot of fuel running out of the fuel filter connections.
For this reason.....make sure your face is not under or close to the filter when you remove the connectors from it.

IF you do the fuel pressure gauge idea......be VERY careful if you drive around with it.
It only takes a SMALL fuel leak to start a BIG fire.
The schraeder valve should be in the middle of the front fuel rail.....the rail that connects to the front 3 fuel injectors.

I would also look at your IMRC system.
It seems to be common on the '99 and newer to have the nylon clips break....and/or fall off leaving the IMRC shafts to flap about randomly.
THIS can also cause some of the driveability issues you are having.

well I put in the new coil pack, and bought new plug wires while I had the thing apart.

You really have to lay on the van and stretch and reach for this thing. I gives you a work out.... Taking the cowl off was no biggie, but reaching for the coil pack was not fun.

The wires looked ok but there was maybe one that had some heat damage along the jacket.

The coil actually looked good with no visible cracks. I haven't tested yet, but I test drove the vehicle and on the first two hills, no problem, no bucking.

I hope that was it... Thanks to all for chiming in.

Ok, drove it for about 2 hours yesterday and the problem didn't come back.

Not sure if the coil was bad, or the plug wires, and not sure I am going to spend any more time testing the old stuff...I am satisfied.

Glad that was it cause I am only out about $65.

I would also agree.......to leave the new parts in and leave well enough alone.
Doing just the wires.....you are doing most of the work in replacing the coil also.
Your time is certainly worth something, and you should not have to worry about those items for some time now.
Plus, you did this at a fraction of the cost that it would have been at a shop.