P0500, P0401 and P1537, Windstar 96

Windstar 1996, 3.8l, 144.000 KM.

P0500 Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) malfunction

P0401 EGR flow lower than expected (DPFE and clogged EGR ports are most common cause)

P1537 IMRC for bank 1 (rear bank) stuck open.

Ok, today my OBD II USB cable arrived. Got codes (I expected these).

My speedometer doesn't work (lower cable is not conected to upper cable). Should I change both? and change VSS too?

Ok, EGR flow was expected too. But I cn't fix this (a friend has a Ford Contour 96 and DEPF is exactly, I could switch i and check if code is gone).

And finally, IMRC stuck open... I tested this one and didnt move at all. So I guessed this was supposed to happen. I read somewhere at this forum that stuck closed it's better than open. There is a way to closed it? forced it? since this one is really expensive here (650$ new at napa). Or there is another Ford that uses the same? (explorer, ranger, taurus, escort) it will be easier to find in a junkyard here (they don't have windstar).

This one: http://partimages.genpt.com/largeimages/826258.jpg

On my '96 3.8L windstar.
Vehicle speed sensor went out......I still had the speedometer (cable was connected).
The SAME unit that the cable connects to......on the back side of the transmission also has a electrical connection for the PCM.
This part is not expensive, but is a real pain to change.
It is above one of the catalytic converters....and you are going by "feel" as you cannot really see what you are doing.
The speedometer cable has a connection under the big flex hose that goes from the air filter to the throttle body.
I would disconnect it at this point.....and then, from under the vehicle, feel around to find the speedometer cable.......it will lead you to the sensor.
Make SURE to have the vehicle raised and secured in a safe manner before going under it.
The Vehicle Speed Sensor is held in place by 1 bolt.
I don't have any pictures of the VSS replacement as mine went out on a trip.....FAR from home and I had Lane Transmission, just outside of Tracy City replace it for me........good people.

Low EGR flow could be the EGR ports in the lower intake manifold.
I have pictures that show how to get to them and clean them......the link in my signature takes you to the pictures.
The upper intake manifold gaskets are re-useable.....make sure that the gaskets and seating surface on the lower intake manifold are clean.
When you clean the ports.....use care to avoid getting anything down into the intake ports in the lower intake manifold.
At this time, see if the IMRC shafts work.
Springs hold them OPEN with no vaccum (as with motor not running).
The Vaccum from the intake (through the IMRC vaccum control solenoid) pulls them closed.
Getting a IMRC actuator from a junk yard is risky, because you run the risk of the used part having a damaged (leaking) diaphram also.

Hello:

About the P0401 DTC check the green vacuum hose on the EGR valve, make sure it is in a good condition and it is correctly attached on both sides of the hose. My 2000 windstar had the same problem and it was because of the hose not seated properly at the back of the manifold.

Best regards,

Oscar.

Hello:

About the P0401 DTC check the green vacuum hose on the EGR valve, make sure it is in a good condition and it is correctly attached on both sides of the hose. My 2000 windstar had the same problem and it was because of the hose not seated properly at the back of the manifold.

Best regards,

Oscar.

I knew it was going to give me a code, since one of the hoses that goes to the DPEF has a metal broken connector. I just connected a hose directly to the hole and put it some sealant to prevent any leaks. But it shouldnt be that way. Ill post a picture soon.

EGR ports are in good condition, I cleaned 2 weeks ago.

Thanks for your reply.

P1537 you can wire them closed its not to difficult to do & only uses them (open @ full throttle)it will take care of SES CK ENGINE light. just make sure you use a
strong wire.i used mechanics wire & its been fine

P1537 you can wire them closed its not to difficult to do & only uses them (open @ full throttle)it will take care of SES CK ENGINE light. just make sure you use a
strong wire.i used mechanics wire & its been fine

I'll try it tomorrow. Hopefully removing plenum wont be necessary (cowl, plenum, it takes too much time).

regards.

Here is what I ment when I said that I knew those codes were about to appear.

P0401 EGR flow lower than expected
One month ago I broke one metal connector, and did this job (poorly since code is there).

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b307/kafkacell/th_100_4798.jpg (http://s22.photobucket.com/albums/b307/kafkacell/?action=view&current=100_4798.jpg)

About IMRC:

P1537 IMRC for bank 1 (rear bank) stuck open

Today I put tie wrap on both and let them closed. I will test if engine run smoother.

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b307/kafkacell/th_100_4803.jpg (http://s22.photobucket.com/albums/b307/kafkacell/?action=view&current=100_4803.jpg)

Here is what I ment when I said that I knew those codes were about to appear.

P0401 EGR flow lower than expected
One month ago I broke one metal connector, and did this job (poorly since code is there).


Well that might be the cause of the code, if that's the case you'll need to either solder it properly o replace the whole tube which is connected to the EGR valve on top of it and to the exhaust tube at the bottom (I don't think this is going to be a DIY job since the lower part of it gets rusted because of high temperatures and it is very likely that you'll need a torch to get it off). Before you do that make sure the green hose on top of the EGR valve is properly attached on both sides (the valve and the intake manifold). Here's a picture of another Ford vehicle to show which hose I'm talking about (thanks to the original poster for it).

Best regards,

Oscar.

Well that might be the cause of the code, if that's the case you'll need to either solder it properly o replace the whole tube which is connected to the EGR valve on top of it and to the exhaust tube at the bottom (I don't think this is going to be a DIY job since the lower part of it gets rusted because of high temperatures and it is very likely that you'll need a torch to get it off). Before you do that make sure the green hose on top of the EGR valve is properly attached on both sides (the valve and the intake manifold). Here's a picture of another Ford vehicle to show which hose I'm talking about (thanks to the original poster for it).

Best regards,



Oscar.

thanks for your reply, I'll double check tomorrow morning.

1996 is different from 1999 and newer as the PCV valve is in the REAR valve cover on the older ones......they moved it to the front valve cover in 1999.
However, the advice is still good......just harder to see the hose.
The vaccum line from the PCV valve goes into the TOP of the upper intake manifold, near the throttle body.
That flexible elbow (90 degree) on the top of the upper intake manifold can crack, mine cracked on the INSIDE of the elbow, but also check the whole hose.

Connecting the IMRC in the closed position....make sure to fasten BOTH of them closed.
You may still get a CEL for them being in the closed position (unless you don't accellerate hard enough for the PCM to try to open them), but it should improve how the vehicle runs, low end power, and fuel economy.

That EGR tube, like mentioned, may need the help of someone with skills.....as it is likely corrosion/heat glued in place.
The EGR flow sensor (DPFE) senses the difference in pressure between the 2 hoses.
There is a restriction inside that metal tube, between the 2 hose connections.
More flow = greater drop in pressure between the bottom hose and the top hose.
Contrary to what some think, EGR flow is CRITICAL to optimum operation as it not only decreases polution, but it reduces temperature in parts of the motor.
Short term not critical, but long term is not good at all.
It is still possible that the DPFE sensor is defective, but....as you mention, that repair job on the hose connection to the metal pipe is a suspect.
I wonder if some high temp header or exhaust wrap might help?........too hot for duct tape (bad joke).