98 Windstar surging problem

Engine will run then die but not stall then pick up again and repeat the whole process again. Acts like its getting starved for fuel. I checked the fuel pressure. Its takes a while for it to come up to specs when I start the engine.

I have a same problem here. I also do not get many responses.
I did not get a chance to read it. Did you fix it. What was the fix.
Windstar is a weird thing and not one remedy works for the same problem.
Thanks.

I believe the problem I am having is the fuel pump. I have replaced the fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator. I got the tank down tonight but I can't get the ring off that holds the fuel pump in place on top of the tank. I soaked it with liquid wrench and went to Autozone to see if they had one of those ring wrenches. They didn't have one. Anyone out there know where we can get one of those wrenches. I am checking at Sears tomorrow. Any ideas on how to get a rusted ring off so I can change the pump?

Maybe at CarQuest, NAPA or other auto parts stores. Or online. I really doubt Sears can have it.
Rusty ring are hard to remove. When I removed mine, I used a mattock. But it wasn't the best way, it tooks time.

Thanks for the reply. If I can't find the tool, I may end up taking the tank to someone to have it removed. I don't want to damage the ring thats molded into the tank because now your looking at replacing the whole tank and they are expensive even though they are plastic. I may go to the local ford dealer and see what they think. Everything went smooth until I got to this point in the removal process. Tank was not real heavy to get down. I had siphoned most of the fuel out using a siphon pump from autozone.

Here is it: http://www.ntxtools.com/network-tool-warehouse/OTC-4624-p-24603.html

At least, it's less expansive than the one you can find at stores.

Thanks for your effort in finding that tool for me. I've decided to take it to the Ford dealer and have them remove it because I don't want to risk damaging the ring mounted on the tank. The gas tanks believe or not are somewhere between 800 and 1000 dollars from the dealer. I just don't want to take the risk. Could probably get from a junk yard as to opposed to paying all the cash but I don't want to take the risk. I'll let you know how I make out. I talked to the service manager and they have run into this before. He says they break the ring apart that holds the pump in and I'll just have to buy a ring if the new pump doesn't come with a ring. Again thanks for posting that wrench for me.

Installed new fuel pump today and I still believe or not have the same problem.
It will start and idle but as soon as you try to drive it it stalls. If you gas it a few tiimes it stalls. Anyone have any ideas on this one. I'm about ready to take it to a pro to diagnose the problem. So I have replaced the fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator and fuel pump.

Maybe the EGR ports are clogged.

I just went out and unhooked the vacuum line from the EGR valve and plugged the vacuum line with a golf tee. I started it up. When I speed the engine up from idle it will die then come back on. Does not stall. I try to keep a steady speed above idle and it dies then comes back on. Thats the symptom I'm having. Any thoughts on this one? It will idle all day long.

Maybe a bad TPS sensor?
You don't have a CEL illuminated?

No CEL at all. I did check the TPS sensor using a multimeter for resistance. It checked ok resistance wise. I also cleaned the MAF sensor and did a voltage check on it. Voltage changes as throttle is increased, so I assume its ok. It goes from a low voltage to a higher voltage. Any more ideas out there. Keep in mind this is the 3.0 liter V6 not the 3.8 liter.

Of course it's not the MAF, since your idle is very stable. 750 I assume.

maybe a vacuum leak that getting worse when engine is under higher load?
What happens when you place the gear in D, it dies then come back?
What happen when you turn on A/C when it idles?

Well I unplugged the MAF sensor and it runs fine in the open loop mode. I guess I have a bad MAF sensor after all. I drove it 6 miles with no problems. I could not even make it down the street before. I had unplugged the MAF earlier before I changed the fuel pump. I guess its possible I had two problems at the same time. I"ll let everyone know how it runs after I put in the new MAF sensor.
what happens if you just leave the MAF sensor unplugged all the time. Can it do damage? Just curious. I guess one of the side effects is poor mileage.

Yes it can damage if you always drive like that. Cause mixture can be too rich or poor, so unburned fuel can accumulate in cylinder and lead to damage.

Well this one is fixed. It turned out to be in the MAF sensor assembly. I did not have to replace it after all. After I ordered one from Autozone because they don"t stock it for the Windstar, I decided to take the old one apart again one more time and inspect it again. You are not going to believe what I found. A white web like material was wedged in the air exit area past the sensor. It looked like it may have been blocking the air flow through the MAF assembly. After hitting it with MAF sensor cleaner, it came out. I reinstalled it and the engine now runs like new again. Just wanted everyone to know about this one because I wonder how many MAF sensors have been changed due to something being stuck in the air exit tube in this assembly. To see it clearly, I removed the two tamper proof screws and removed the sensor itself from the assembly. With this removed you could see the material clogged in the exit tube area on the round assembly part. You can't see it with the sensor mounted in the round assembly. Just saved myself 100.00 plus tax ( cost of a new MAF ).