new power window motor failed after 5 tries

I had what I thought was a dead power window motor in my 2001 Windstar.

I cleaned the switches, and motor connection with contact cleaner, tested voltage at the switch and at the motor and had 12v.

I bought a new (refurb) window motor from Advanced Auto, and installed it.

I tested the window 5X before putting the door panel back together, and the first day after the replacement the window does not work any longer.

The relay makes the sound, but no action.

It started to fail, intermittantly, then down then up and it stopped working..

Bad regulator or binding..... I looked and felt around and didn't see any damage to the track.... and greased the new gear area of the motor....

any ideas before I break it back open.

I ran into the same thing on the passenger side on my '96......replaced the motor and gear unit......still had intermitten problems.
I lubricated the regulator assembly.......seemed to help.

First thing to do is to make sure that the "track" slides on the sides.......Front and rear.....are in place.....over time, I ended up replacing 1 on the driver's and 1 on the passenger side....they have spot welds that can break.
New slide rails are pretty cheap at the FORD dealership.

The other thing that might help.....if lubricating the regulator does not work.......maybe try replacing the regulator assembly.
They sell them online at Rockauto.

I'll go back in there this weekend. But I did check to see if the rails were loose. I don't think that is the problem though... I will try to lube and maybe re-seat the motor gear in case it is off.

To lube the regulator, do I just roll the window down (or push it down with the motor out).....

May be those mickey-mouse switches. You must check for voltage while "under load" ... while the motor is moving, or trying to move. May take an assistant. Have to splice into the wiring. I'm also having trouble now with the passenger door "up" ... but the problem is in the master-control in the driver's door. $130 bucks for a new switch assembly.

I'll try cleaning and adjusting one more time .....

now I think it is the switch.

I am not getting voltage to the motor now. I dissaembled the switch and cleaned out the gunk, and now nothing...... I am trying to ohm it out, but can't find any info on what to probe. There are 8 blades on the back of the switch. If you are looking at the blades from left to right, 1-4 on top, and 5-8 on bottom, i am getting continuity between 3 and 6 which ones do i ohm.

When i push the window down switch postiion, my continuity goes away.

I am getting very inconsistant numbers though. very weird readings.

now I think it is the switch.

I am not getting voltage to the motor now. I dissaembled the switch and cleaned out the gunk, and now nothing...... I am trying to ohm it out, but can't find any info on what to probe. There are 8 blades on the back of the switch. If you are looking at the blades from left to right, 1-4 on top, and 5-8 on bottom, i am getting continuity between 3 and 6 which ones do i ohm.

When i push the window down switch postiion, my continuity goes away.

I am getting very inconsistant numbers though. very weird readings.

I'm assuming that we are talking about the driver's side window. If that's the case, the switch doesn't directly drive the motor. For some stupid reason, Ford decided to route the switch through the Front Electronics Module (FEM) and then the FEM powers the window.

Let me tell you how I'd troubleshoot this. I'd take a car battery and put 12volts directly to the motor and see what you've got. If it rolls up/down, you know the window motor is good. Due to the close proximity of the contacts on the motor, be VERY careful not to get your 12v source shorted. I'd recommend fabricating two jumper leads that you can pull apart prior to putting 12 volts on it.

Your switch diagram is included on this post. (The diagram is for a 2000, but I'm sure it's the same) You should have 12 volts at contact #6 and with nothing pressed, it'll be on contact #3. When you push the switch down, you should get 12volts out on contact #2. Up should get you 12v on contact #1.

My brother's windstar had a VERY similar problem and it ended up being the FEM module. Rather than spend $150+ on the part, he simply used his rear vent window switch to drive the front motor. It takes a few wires and some crimps, but it works perfectly. (Except for you don't have the "auto down" feature) I'm not sure if you'd like to do that or how comfortable you are with the idea, but it does work.

As a quick test of your motor though, pull your door panel off, leaving the switches connected. Remove the moisture barrier so that you can gain access to the motor. Have someone press the up or down button and tap on the motor casing with a wrench or ratchet. Don't tippy tap it, but don't beat the heck out of it either. A good solid whack should be enough to get it moving, if the brushes are the issue. If that moves your motor, go ahead and order you a new motor, because it may work for a day, or a week or a month, but know this....IT WILL return. Just replace it and be done with it.

Hopefully this gets you up/running again.

Mark

Thanks. that is good intel..

Add this while i was testing and probing, i did blow the fuse, and a checked and the relay in the engine compartment was blown, and I replaced them both..

I'll keep checking/ testing


The motor is new.... it worked for a day, and then stopped.

update....

the old passenger side is working.

It labors at the halfway point going up....starts off fast, slows at midpoint, then fast to the top....

I may still replace that motor today due to the age.... and i already have the door apart.

so both switches work and operate the passenger side window... so no FEM problem right.....

I have voltage on the drivers side switch, and when I depress the switch it sends voltage to the motor wires.....

maybe I just got a bad motor when I got the remanufactured one at Advance.???

more update...

I hate to admit it, but I took out the relay in the engine compartment and didn't put it back.


The drivers side will roll down only. I get 10.6 volts at the motor connector harness when depressed down... and 0 volts when it is depressed to go up..... I have had the switch taken apart a few times and cleaned it well.


Switch???

update....

the old passenger side is working.

It labors at the halfway point going up....starts off fast, slows at midpoint, then fast to the top....

I may still replace that motor today due to the age.... and i already have the door apart.

so both switches work and operate the passenger side window... so no FEM problem right.....

I have voltage on the drivers side switch, and when I depress the switch it sends voltage to the motor wires.....

maybe I just got a bad motor when I got the remanufactured one at Advance.???

Spuggedy,

You're not quite correct. The FEM only handles the driver's side window. All other windows go directly from the switch to the window.

The 10volts thing is sort of telling also. According to the diagram that I attached, the voltage comes directly from the FEM module and it certainly seems like that's the problem. If I were you, I'd check the output of the driver's side switch just to make sure that the correct voltages are getting sent. If I'm reading this correctly, you should have 12 volts at pin 2 when the window switch is in the down position. If you've already taken the switch out, check resistance between pins 2 and 5. Normally, it'll be open, but in the "down" position, it'll be zero ohms. Since you've taken the switch apart, I'd make sure that you check it thoroughly.

You're passenger side window sounds like it could be a gummed up track. The "slows down in the middle" part sounds like it's binding up a bit. It'd be worth lubricating the regulator and tracks to see if it fixes the problem.

On your drivers side window, make sure that you check the voltages without the window connected. It rules out any sort of loading from the motor.



Keep me posted and good luck.

It was the switch.

I got a used one on Ebay.

Plugged it in and Voilla....

Until it fails I should be good.

I changed the drivers side motor anyway... it had 150K and I already had it out, so $50 for the refurbished motor was a no brainer.

Thanks for all the help, the best advice was probably the volt meter, and checking the power at the switch and the motor....not a hard DIY at all....

Spuggedy,

Fantastic! I'm glad to hear you got it back working again. I have to tackle a window issue on my 1995. The a/c had a small leak that became a big leak over the summer. I recharged it at the beginning of the summer and went on a small road trip. Two days later, the freon was gone and at the exact same time, BOTH of my windows decided to stop working. My problem is bum motors, but because its my spare car, I haven't tackled the problem just yet. Anyway, I'm glad I was able to help. I really do love this site.

Mark

It stopped working last month. I hear a relay clicking sound when it is depressed, but no action

I ordered another used drivers side control module and exact same problem... no up or down on the passenger side window.

bought the remanufactured motor at Advance Auto one year ago. Window has hardly been used, so thinking the grease may have dried up and caused it to seize... we had some 100 degree days this summer and it might have gummed up and caused the motor to bind, or burn up. Going to take the motor off and see what is gong on.