MY Fair Lady

OK, I haven't finished the Levin, but I'm going to start another build :naughty:

This time, I'm building a Nissan Fairlady roadster for another forum's Community Build Project. I'm going to build this one as a mildly modded street car with a very unique drive train...a scratchbuilt OS Giken TC-16 MAII :biggrin:engine.

I could have used an already available engine as the base, but I know I wouldn't have too much fun with that. I go all the way with my motors, or no way at all.

This weekend's work had resulted in the Datsun/Nissan L18 block and front timing cover 90% done...just a few small details to add at a later time.

http://img830.imageshack.us/img830/7494/dscf5088.jpg
http://img834.imageshack.us/img834/912/dscf5063.jpg
http://img841.imageshack.us/img841/8316/dscf5059.jpg


...and a quick mock up of it in her new home

http://img832.imageshack.us/img832/4493/dscf5075.jpg
http://img844.imageshack.us/img844/9206/dscf5077.jpg

Still a lot more to do...Thanks for looking!

Jimmy

Sweet, 1600 or 2000?

Looks like it'll be a fun build :thumbsup:

Thanks. It's actually a 1800. The TC-16MAII is a hybrid motor that used a L18 block and a custom DOHC head. It came out in the early 1980's...it's a beast...232 hp with Dual Webers!

I thought about making a R16 (1600), or U20 (2000), but this one is a little bit different, and unique.

I saw your sig in another thread and was curious to see what you do to put motors in these curbsides and... woah! That motor is gorgeous!! I am really looking forward to what you're going to put together!!

looking good jimmy. hmm i want! lols.

Thanks Willimo! I've always loved Japanese kits...especially Fujimi (they make the subjects I like to build). But...they have always been way short on the detail side of things. After drooling over a Sakatsu 2T-G engine, and realizing that they were pretty much unobtainable, I decided to make one on my own. After a few refinements, I ended up with the T-G that is in my Levin build (Hemi Powered Levin). Soon, people were requesting copies and eventually different motors. I currently have seven different motors in various stages of completetion with this one being number eight.


You know me Luis...there will be copies made :devil: I've got the head about 75% done. After fabricating it, I realized I got a few proportions wrong on the timing cover. I've got to fix a few of those things, and then start on the valve cover...that "OS" logo is going to be a pain to replicate in this scale. Pics later on this week...


Jimmy

kOOl build once again. But I've never seen You completing a build. I mean a car kit. Sure Your engine builds are very nice, but what about that Levin for example, when U gonna finish it, or if U allready have, when will U post pics of it? One engine I'd like to see is CA18DET made by You. Or 1JZ? How about RE20?

kOOl build once again. But I've never seen You completing a build. I mean a car kit. Sure Your engine builds are very nice, but what about that Levin for example, when U gonna finish it, or if U allready have, when will U post pics of it? One engine I'd like to see is CA18DET made by You. Or 1JZ? How about RE20?

Thanks...I have finished builds, but it has been a really long time since I've done so.

http://img105.imageshack.us/img105/4192/1000242ag7.jpg

I build at one pace...MINE :evillol: I don't build to show at contests, or rarely build for other people. I don't like to build kits just to build kits. I build cars that are near and dear to me. I like to do a lot of fabrication...which takes a lot of time when I only work on them maybe 3 to 4 hours total a week. Some weeks, I don't build at all, it just depends on my mood. If I notice that I start to get sloppy in my work, I set the build aside, and work on something fresh. Then, I'll get the bug again and crank out a little bit more...or re-do work that I've already done...like I have done so many times with the Levin :rolleyes:...two different front suspension changes, 4 paint jobs, 4 different engine variations, 3 different rear suspensions, two different transmissions, and the list goes on and on....it's curently in the same state as my last posting, just waiting on some more inspiration :icon16:

I'm not running a business...catering to the masses has never been my intent. I fabricate engines that appeal to me, and fit my builds. Then, I offer up copies if someone asks. I have started engines that I probaly wouldn't have, but after I get them near completetion, I lose interest...my 4G63 is a prime example:

http://img710.imageshack.us/img710/3848/1000978eo.jpg

I will eventually make a new CA18DET to replace the one that got stolen from me...by a member of this forum no less. I also have a lot of other engines in the planning, and actual fabrication stages as well. You might not ever see me make a RB26DETT, or any European engines either. What you will see are unique and almost 100% fabricated by me...no knockoffs here. Prince G7 anyone? :evillol:

love your work keep it up

Thanks!

Like I promised, I've got more pics. I have got the basic fabrication done on the head, and valve cover. Just got a lot of minor details to sort out. Please over look the gaps...I'm using double sided tape to hold the parts together..and the bad photography (I need to start shooting in the daylight :frown:)

http://img194.imageshack.us/img194/3018/dscf5101q.jpg
http://img840.imageshack.us/img840/4039/dscf5116.jpg
http://img294.imageshack.us/img294/9426/dscf5099m.jpg

This engine is a beast! Its going to be a tight fit in the Fairlady...in fact, it's a tight fit in the real OS Giken Nissan 510 Bluebird demo car.

http://img202.imageshack.us/img202/6879/dscf5094.jpg

Due to height constraints, this one will probably get a dry sump oil system to keep with the street racer theme.

More to come...

Thanks for looking.

Jimmy

I have started engines that I probaly wouldn't have, but after I get them near completetion, I lose interest...my 4G63 is a prime example

I'll take that 4G63 off your hands if you want. :iceslolan:naughty::rofl:

Staying on topic though... I always enjoy following your threads, so I'm subscribed! :smile:

I'll take that 4G63 off your hands if you want. :iceslolan:naughty::rofl:

Staying on topic though... I always enjoy following your threads, so I'm subscribed! :smile:


Tempting....but I think I'll hold on to it for a while...I might get another bug bite later on down the line :iceslolan :evillol:

Thanks for the following...you'll be getting your membership card after cough up my subscription fees :evillol::evillol::evillol::evillol::evillol::evil lol::evillol::evillol::evillol::evillol:

Thanks for looking...

More to come...

Splendid work, I wish I was patient enough to scratchbuild such nice engines.
Keep up the good work.

Splendid work, I wish I was patient enough to scratchbuild such nice engines.
Keep up the good work.

Thanks Oli...Patience is something I have a lot of. That, and the willingness to completely re-do work that I've already done before :evillol:

I worked a little bit more on the engine. I got the valve cover almost completely finished. I added the bolt bosses, ribbing, "OS" logo to the front, and fabbed up an oil cap. I also got a bit more done to the head as well. Again, sorry for the bad photography :(

http://img180.imageshack.us/img180/7456/dscf5128w.jpg
http://img294.imageshack.us/img294/4091/dscf5133w.jpg
http://img837.imageshack.us/img837/4877/dscf5144.jpg

The "OS" script is a bit of a compromise as the 1:1 has a border around it. Also, it's a bit over sized...even at 2mm high...I had to cave in because my eyes were killing me from squinting too much :P

I just have to throw in another in-car shot :iceslolan

http://img198.imageshack.us/img198/6956/dscf5147q.jpg

Thanks for looking.

Jimmy

I've got another update for you...a really small one :evillol:...the carb!

I was a bit torn about what type of induction to do. At first, I was going for a Lucas type mechanical fuel injection just to keep it Old Skool. I almost started it, but realized that the place I was going to located the injector pump is the same location I had reserved for the dry sump oil pump. I already had a Mikuni/Solex 40PHH type T carb fabbed up for my 2T-G, and T-C engines, but I felt that this one needed a bit more. Keeping it Mikuni, I fabbed up a 44PHH type S (pictured from Lt to Right: 44PHH type S, my original 2T-G Mikuni setup from a few years ago-I definitely got better :iceslolan, and My 40PHH type T:

http://img96.imageshack.us/img96/4892/dscf5155w.jpg

...and mocked up on the motor (type T carb in the rear to show what two carbs will look like installed)

http://img5.imageshack.us/img5/7112/dscf5163q.jpg

I went back and gave the valve cover a diet by shaving 1.5mm off, and now I realized my timing cover is a bit off as well...back to the workbench for a re-work.

Thanks for looking.

Jimmy

awesome proyect...!!

Good luck

Thanks!!!

Looks like a tough crowd here, but I'll post more progress anyways.

I got my maser to the point where I can start making the molds. I re-worked the front timing cover, fabricated a master for the intake runners, a fan belt assembly, and made a deep sump oil pan. I know...I said I was going to go dry sump, but I did some re-figuring , and this setup will fit...Barely Fit! :lol:

http://a.imageshack.us/img840/2142/dscf5184.jpg
http://a.imageshack.us/img686/9425/dscf5180f.jpg
http://a.imageshack.us/img225/9072/dscf5182.jpg

See, It's gonna be a tight fit once I get the other engine bay details done

http://a.imageshack.us/img135/1613/dscf5177.jpg

Thanks for looking!

Jimmy

that motor is amazing! How did you make the "OS" on the valve cover look so crisp? I've been trying to make letters, but I can't get the plastic to stay together when I try to cut out the small details.

Thanks. I used .3mm sheet for the lettering. I drew out the letters the size I needed them to be...or in this case as small as I could make them. Then, I took out the smallest drill bit I had and drilled out the insides of the O and the S. I found out that it is easier to do this first before cutting out the letters. then, I roughly cut out each letter. After that, I used sand paper to fine tune the shape before gluing them in place.

Hopefully you understand this process as I didn't take any pics while I was making them.

Jimmy

it's very tough jimmy. it looks great! im waiting on this.

It's getting there Luis. I got my first castings done. I've got to work a bit more on the block master, but other than that, the rest is good to go.

http://a.imageshack.us/img9/5213/dscf5186n.jpg

She'll get a coat of paint tomorrow :iceslolan

Jimmy

swweeett, this would look good under um my datto 510 project..wink, wink.

Thanks, Jimmy. That's just how I was trying to do mine, but I'm trying to get "NISSAN" in about a 1/16" font.

Yours looks fantastic. I'm watching this build.

Not a problem :wink: The OS is a little too big, but I think that it'll do the trick.

We have color!!!

This is the test casting all painted up. Just gotta touch up in a few areas, and give it a wash to highlight the details. I also had to doctor this one up a bit, so some of the details are a little rough.

http://img72.imageshack.us/img72/9842/dscf5018.jpg
http://img180.imageshack.us/img180/276/dscf5016m.jpg
http://img704.imageshack.us/img704/7479/dscf5002l.jpg

Hopefully tomorrow, I'll have the distributor fabbed up and the engine all wired, at least as far as I can go at this point.

Thanks for looking.

Jimmy

as usual awesome scratch building there my friend. hopefully one day you'll get time to build my motor lol.

as usual awesome scratch building there my friend. hopefully one day you'll get time to build my motor lol.


Thanks Fagri! My backlog of projects has been keeping me busy. This is a motor I've been wanting to do this one for years.

As promised, I got the distributor fabbed up and the motor wired, at least enough for now...also gave it a bit of a wash to give it that used look.

http://a.imageshack.us/img441/336/dscf5041r.jpg
http://a.imageshack.us/img836/7113/dscf5045.jpg
http://a.imageshack.us/img811/5937/dscf5050.jpg

...Now off to start working on the chassis :iceslolan

vvroooom, vrooom!

:evillol: Thanks Luis...

I spent this weekend filling engine orders...not the TC-16 :nono: just in case you were wandering :evillol:

Hopefully I'll have something posted up later on this week.

Thanks for looking,

Jimmy

Very nice progress. And I totally understand building on Your own pace. It's just that I WANT TO SEE MORE OF YOUR BUILDS! And since the engines You fabricate are so very accurate, I wish to see them inside Your completed models. I really liked the FC BTW! I'd love to have that 4G63! You should make resin copies and sell them for a huge profit =) (though, quite many modellers are broke-especially me- so I don't know about making profit...). If only some one would provide templates in 1:24 for making my own engines. This is a very nice project. I've seen one 1:1 Fairlady with a bit more modern SR20DET engine in it. I think it was here on AF's Nissan section?

Thanks! Eventually, I'll get to casting on a larger scale, but right now, I can barely keep up with orders, and still work on my own projects.

Since I made the engine, a engine bay befitting of it is in order. Not really happy with the bay that Fujimi included, I decided to make up a FuJimmy one to make up the shortfall.

First off, I cut off the inner fender wells from the chassis with a razor saw

http://a.imageshack.us/img267/73/dscf5018321.jpg

Then I fabricated a new bay using references I got of the net out of 0.4mm sheet and various size square rod. I didn't want a lot of fitment issues with the body, so I integrated the upper cowl, and hood drip rails into the body. I also moved the grill support 2mm forward just like in my references. The lower cowl and inner fender wells got integrated into the chassis.

http://a.imageshack.us/img19/4932/dscf5037n.jpg

Before, and after

http://a.imageshack.us/img805/4166/dscf5009.jpg
http://a.imageshack.us/img838/3594/dscf5030k.jpg

Now the engine is a happy camper :evillol:

http://a.imageshack.us/img197/1118/dscf5039j.jpg


Still a few more details to add, and this one will be ready for primer. Thanks for looking.

Jimmy

Awsome man! i still cant beleave how easy this looks when you do it!

Wow! you are doing an excelent work!! That engine is perfect man!!

One question (sorry for the offtopic), but I just want to know if i undestood well...you make copies with resin of the engines and sell them? do you make any other kind of parts?

Good luck and keep modeling like that :iceslolan

Great Car

Well...it's not as easy as it looks. There is A LOT of trial and error. in fact, I had to re-do the inner fender panels three times before I got it to a point where I was happy. I just post up the good stuff and not the bad :evillol:

luchoteam: I only cast engines (when I have the time to do so :frown:) since they are pretty much a universal thing. I really don't bother casting other stuff as I have really different taste when it comes to my modelling subjects...if it's mainstream, I probably won't build it. I like to build stuff that most people would pass off. So there really isn't any need for me to invest my time and money into something that I would only use once or twice...it's just as easy for me to build it from scratch.

OK, now on to a new update. Since I invested so much time and effort into the engine bay, it would be a shame to not add detail to the underside of the hood. First off, I needed to close the gap that was made after I cut off the hood. I glued scrap strips of styrene to the sided of the hood, and then sanded them down until I was happy with the fit

http://a.imageshack.us/img295/8131/dscf5029m.jpg

Using references off the net, I added ribbing detail to the undersides using various thicknesses of strip styrene. Also, the hood peak is very prominent feature that is seen. I marked off the center line, and used a really small ball file to scribe a trench in proportion to the peak on the top of the hood. I feel that it gives the hood a more realistic scale thickness thickness than the actually is.

http://a.imageshack.us/img411/6623/dscf5044e.jpg
http://a.imageshack.us/img820/2649/dscf5047.jpg

Now with it on the body. I'm not going to permanently mount the hinge because of the thickness of the hinge material. However, I engineered the hinges to still function like they do on the real car.

http://a.imageshack.us/img69/5972/dscf5052.jpg

Still more to go until I'm happy. Then, it's off to start the interior.

Thanks for looking.

Jimmy

Time for another update. Because I fabricated the new engine, I created a big set of headaches. The original kit front crossmember will not fit because of the front crank pulley and the oil pump get in the way. I thought of modding that first, but I still might have fitment issues after I got the engine mounted. So, I decided to mount the engine , and then sort out the front crossmember after it's set in place.

I had to design up a set of pretty unique engine brackets because the L Type engine is engineered to be mounted at a slant. To get the roughly 10 degree from vertical slant, I sketched a simple diagram of the engine and the frame rails.

http://a.imageshack.us/img717/7970/dscf5056ux.jpg


I then fabbed up a set brackets (using the diagram as a guide) out of 2mm C channel rod that had been laminated together to create a H beam

http://a.imageshack.us/img806/6766/dscf5080.jpg

Now the engine is set up the way it needs to be. I made the brackets so that I can remove and reinstall the engine whenever I need to, while still being able to hold it firmly in place.

http://a.imageshack.us/img193/2354/dscf5064.jpg

The front crossmember is next on the list to mod before moving on.

Thanks for looking.

Jimmy

OK, I've got the engine mounts sorted. Now I needed to sort out the front crossmember. I wanted to keep the original double wishbone suspension setup because I'm going for a vintage look. I took the kit's crossmember and marked off where the chassis met the frame. Then, I sliced off the center portion and fabbed up a new one that suits my needs. I wanted it to look like a factory stamped steel part just like the original one was. Sort of like a late '60's/early '70's NISMO part. Keeping that idea in mind, I created a front crossmember that has no sharp lines and shapes that are oh so common in custom aftermarket adapter parts.

http://a.imageshack.us/img834/5163/dscf5106o.jpg

Now, everything is a near perfect fit :smile:

http://a.imageshack.us/img820/4114/dscf5089.jpg

Jimmy

damn jimmy, keep up the great work. :iceslolan

Why dont you just start a company that makes the entire kits? these look just as good as or maybe even better then the topnotch Tamiya kits

/\ I agree, I'd buy one.

This car is turning out to be one of the best builds on here.

Thanks guys for the kind words...the feedback is much appreciated :grinyes:

Here's another update. Casting my own wheels turned out to be a disaster, and I couldn't even one good cast out of the ten that I tried, so I gave up on it this time. I'm going to use the old trusted standby...RS Wantanabes. I took the front wheels from two different Fujimi 240Z kits to make a set (good thing I have 5 240 kits in my stash :lol:) The reason why I took the front pair is that they're the narrower of the two. I needed a narrow set...especially with the back pair (they're tucked in so they can fit the wheel arches, and clearance is an issue.)

The first thing I did was to lower the front end. I plugged up the kits spindles with 2mm rod, and then re-drilled a new axle hole 2mm up from the original one. that lowered the front much more to my liking. The Wantanabes have a lower offset, than the original kit's steelies which caused them to stick outside the wheel arches. Not really digging the skateboard look, I had to come up with a way to move them in. I decided that I had to mount the wheel directly against the spindles, but the kits brake disks were still causing the wheels to stick out. I came up with an idea to enlarge the brake disk holes so the wheel stubs would slide all the way thru. That solved that problem, but now I had to figure out how to mount the modded brake disks to the spindles with a big gaping hole in the middle of them. I came up with a bracket system that allowed the disks to be mounted, and the wheels still fit flush against the spindle.

http://img707.imageshack.us/img707/2646/dscf5021a.jpg

Crisis adverted, now on to the steering mechanism. Since I didn't alter the spacing of the suspension control arms, the kit's original tie rod was the correct length. I couldn't re-use it because the new crossmember has a completely different shape. So I got some 0.75mm aluminum craft wire and made me a new tie rod. once I was happy with the look, I drilled holes into the kit's tie rod pivot points. I them glued the new tie rod to the kit's pivot points, and then cut out the original tie rod after the glue had set. This ensured that I had the length dead on :wink:

http://img828.imageshack.us/img828/3858/dscf500147.jpg

It worked good out of the car, but once I mounted it to the frame, it was hitting the anti-sway bar mounts. So, I got a little creative and added a couple of bends, and voila...it works as advertised :grinyes:

http://img831.imageshack.us/img831/4336/dscf5019.jpg

I reused the kit's radiator mounts, and steering idler linkages to give the steering a little more character :wink:

http://img683.imageshack.us/img683/967/dscf5015159.jpg

Now, she's really starting to take shape

http://img442.imageshack.us/img442/7862/dscf5008j.jpg

Just a bit more to go and the chassis and suspension will be ready for paint :cool:

Thanks for looking!

Jimmy

Those wheels look really nice underneath this car man!

Wow! that suspension work is great!

About the rims, its just a comment, but i see them and i think they are too big, but is just an opinion, anyway that car is looking awesome

Wow! that suspension work is great!

About the rims, its just a comment, but i see them and i think they are too big, but is just an opinion, anyway that car is looking awesome

Not a problem. I feel that they are a little too big too. The most common wheels used on this car are Minilites, and American Racing Libres. Which are a lot smaller. I don't have those wheels in my stash, so the Wats will have to do. Right now, they are white and really stick out. They are going to get painted a dark color and hopefully, they won't be so blaring :grinyes:.

OK, now a little update. The suspension got a coat of paint so I needed something else to work on :grinno:

http://img227.imageshack.us/img227/3894/dscf5026c.jpg

I'm going for a vintage BRE roadster look (but with a full sized windshield...gotta keep it street legal :mad:) with this one. First off, since I modded the chassis when I made the engine bay, the original front mount was no good. I came up with the idea of using strips of styrene glued to the front apron to act as a stop.

http://img841.imageshack.us/img841/5679/dscf5035.jpg

The rear was a bit of a challenge. In keeping with the race car look, the car has to loose it's bumpers. The front is not a problem, but the back had to be modded to look like the real car. I enlarged the rear bumper mounting holes and plugged them with 2mm rod stock. I then marked off the area that needed to be removed from the rear panel.

http://img716.imageshack.us/img716/5485/dscf5034c.jpg

I cut out the required area, but didn't quite cut it perfectly level, so I had to shim it up and re-trim the area :shakehead

http://img291.imageshack.us/img291/7216/dscf5042p.jpg

Now I had a problem...I cut out the mounting point for the rear. So I took out a PE blade, and cut off the rear mounting tab from the chassis and remounted it higher up

http://img820.imageshack.us/img820/9985/dscf5037147.jpg
http://img185.imageshack.us/img185/7185/dscf5047157.jpg

This higher mounting point required me to move the mounting slot higher up on the body. I'm not worried as the license plate will cover it up when it's all done.

The last thing I had to do to make the conversion complete was to add a drip rail right above the rear cut-out. I used strip styrene for this sanded to shape after the glue had dried.

http://img820.imageshack.us/img820/2295/dscf5049f.jpg

I was going to leave the gas tank as is, but now that I had to remove the lower portion of the rear of the body, it's more visible :headshake. Now, I have to make a new one of those too...it never ends :banghead: :lol2:
http://img718.imageshack.us/img718/7915/dscf5051.jpg

Thanks for looking...comments, suggestions, or critics are welcome.

Jimmy

love the work jimmy. if i could find the 4th AR libre from my datsun kit i would give them to you. well if you still want them you can have them cause of course you can cast them..:iceslolan lmk

love the work jimmy. if i could find the 4th AR libre from my datsun kit i would give them to you. well if you still want them you can have them cause of course you can cast them..:iceslolan lmk

If you can find the last one, I'd love to have them...they're the wheels I originally wanted for this build.l

I'm on a tight time line, so I need to work on this as much as I can. I got most of the chassis done, so I started to work on the interior. Since this is a convertible, a lot of the interior will be seen. What I didn't want to see is a bunch of big gaps. I filled the gap at the rear bulkhead with 1mm square rod. Also, there was a big gap between the firewall and the front fender.

http://img178.imageshack.us/img178/9530/dscf5056789.jpg

This one is getting a full interior so I fabricated a solid kick panel instead of a stripped out one

http://img251.imageshack.us/img251/7484/dscf5058.jpg

Now, a few shots of all of the mods, and fabrication work I have done to the chassis before it all gets covered in paint

http://img833.imageshack.us/img833/8321/dscf5064852.jpg
http://img682.imageshack.us/img682/7904/dscf5071.jpg

The last pic showed the gas tank removed and a floor fabricated with ribbing detail. It's a bit of an overkill since the new gas tank will cover it all up...but I know it's all there :naughty:

Now, I teaser of the final color

http://img690.imageshack.us/img690/606/dscf5097.jpg

It's Model Master Phoenician Yellow, which is very close to the original Nissan 665 yellow that was used on these babies...IMO, nothing looks better on 1960's cars than pastel colors :2cents:

Thanks for looking.

Jimmy

wow!
I am so happy that you are making a roadster!
I thought I was the only one here:frown:

I can't believe the amount of fab work you have done, especially the engine bay with the inner fender detail, and the radiator supports, underhood bracing, etc...it is very impressive!

since you "go all the way" with your engines I expect to see full carb/throttle linkage details! :p
Love the OS giken head, that's just plain nuts

how will the exhaust look/be routed?

looking great!

wow!
I am so happy that you are making a roadster!
I thought I was the only one here:frown:

I can't believe the amount of fab work you have done, especially the engine bay with the inner fender detail, and the radiator supports, underhood bracing, etc...it is very impressive!

since you "go all the way" with your engines I expect to see full carb/throttle linkage details! :p
Love the OS giken head, that's just plain nuts

how will the exhaust look/be routed?

Thanks. I've got a sweet spot for old skool J-tin...especially these little gems. Eventually, I'm going to build up some more of these in SP/SPL311, SR/SRL311, and a CSP311 Silvia with R16 and U20 engines. I wanted to build something special for this one so I went with the TC-16. Due to time restraints I won't be able to do as much as I'd like to. I don't have the time to fab up the correct tranny for the L block. The kits tranny is not really that bad looking so I'm going to mod it to look like the correct one.

Just a few more things to touch up on then ill be back to the engine...I like to save my favorite parts of my builds for last.

The paint ended up being a real headache on the chassis. Once the yellow had cured up, I spent 3 hours masking off the frame so I could air brush the semi gloss black. I sprayed it and then pulled off the tape...the black bled thru everywhere :angryfire:angryfire:angryfire. I thought OK, I'll be able to clean it up before the paint had completely dried when I dropped the chassis frame down on the floor...finishing off the disaster :crying: a Quick overnight soak in 90% isopropyl alcohol, and the chassis was cleaned up, re-primed and resprayed...then I ran out of paint. I did give the body a few coats of Model Master Ford Phoenician Yellow while the chassis was getting stripped. And as promised, the wheels got painted too.

Now a look at the big picture so far

http://img192.imageshack.us/img192/3795/dscf5100b.jpg
http://img205.imageshack.us/img205/4046/dscf5104.jpg

I feel that the dark color of the wheels has really made them not stick out as much as they did when they were white. Just another good wet coat of paint, and she'll be ready for clear.

Thanks for looking.

Jimmy

Those rims are the Watanabes right?
Are the same that were white in the other pictures?...because in the other pics i saw them and i have the idea that they were very similar to the watanabes....but they are!:screwy:

Well that car is looking great, sorry to hear about your problems, but im sure you will finish it very well

Good luck!

Yeah, those are the exact same Watanabe's. I painted the white wheels with flat aluminum for the outer rims, and a special mixture of aluminum, gold and flat black to give it a dark gunmetal color. Now, they don't look so big :)

It's headed toward the finish line quickly.
Great progress.

I can't believe the amount of fab work you have done

Spoken like a REAL car guy. Modelers scratch build, real car guys FABRICATE! haha

This little gem is turning out very very nice. I have to set my sights on something to build, and this isn't helping me to complete my S13 collection. haha.

Can't wait to see the completed engine under the hood with all the hoses and wires and what not.

The wheels turned out perfect for this car...if just a tad bit to wide, but they look GREAT!

That's OK, I prefer the word fabricate because that's what I do...I make my own parts from my own patterns, and from raw materials :icon16:.

Yeah. this one is definably going together a lot faster than usual...which is starting to scare me :confused: :p

rsxse240: The wheels are actually the same width as the original steelies that came in the kit. It's just that these have a lower offset...which brought them out further and gave them a bit of a lip. Also, a S13 guy would get a kick out of these future projects:

http://img124.imageshack.us/img124/2997/dscf0050uk3.jpg
http://img440.imageshack.us/img440/3034/dscf0073ds6.jpg
http://img176.imageshack.us/img176/8393/dscf2356897.jpg

A CA18DET, and the start of a KA24DE-T :grinyes:

Thanks for looking, more to come.

Jimmy

CrewDag15...are you also making those engines for a nissan silvia?

I dont speak/write in english everyday so im a little rust :iceslolan, sometimes I dont understand everything, sorry if a made silly question

CrewDag15...are you also making those engines for a nissan silvia?

I dont speak/write in english everyday so im a little rust :iceslolan, sometimes I dont understand everything, sorry if a made silly question

No worries about the English...I've lived all over the world, and have gotten quite used to it :wink::)

Yeah, eventually, I'll be finishing up these engines for the Silvia, and the US/Canada spec 240SX. I've got a few other projects to do before I can get back to them though :grinno:

The yellow was a flop :mad:. The primer and base coats laid down great, but once the clear went on, the red plastic started to rear it's ugly face :mad: Off to the alcohol tub for another dunk and strip. I was searching for another color and stumbled across a pic of a gold 1600 Roadster. It had the nostalgic look I wanted, and it was a metallic color that would cover that nasty red plastic. I haven't given up on the yellow, it'll just have to wait until I get me a white version ;)

I got the chassis, and body painted Testors One Coat Bronze, Wet Look clear, and polished...here's how she has turned out so far:

http://img830.imageshack.us/img830/1592/dscf514789.jpg
http://img268.imageshack.us/img268/2445/dscf5139o.jpg
http://img806.imageshack.us/img806/2842/dscf5137.jpg

It has a bit of red sheen to it, but I feel it gives the finish a bit of character. Just a few more things to add to the chassis, and she'll be ready for a bit of weathering.

Jimmy

Very interesting color choice! I really like it

oh, jimmy. i was liking the yellow at first, but this gold color bro, sweeeeet, so sweet it will put you in suger induced coma!