Word of warning...!

Last week I did the rear brakes shoes on my 2000 Windstar and everything went well, that is untill we went for a ride and I started loosing brake pressure at the pedal. By the time I got home that evening the brake light was ON and there was a nasty brake fluid smell!

As it turned out, the left rear wheel cylinder blew, so I removed the drum and washed the shoes to ensure they didn't contaminate with the brake fluid. Next day I got a new wheel cylinder and got to work, then I bled the wheel cylinder and decided to do an all-around system bleed, but by the time I got to the right rear, I could see brake fluid flowing down the drum and tire, so the right side wheel cylinder blew aswell.

Got it replaced also and bled the system and now everything is great... It stops in a dime and got rid of the low brake pedal issue I had before!

But I was left thinking as to what could've caused both wheel cylinders to fail back to back, especially after originally inspecting them while doing the rear brakes and finding them in exceptional shape. Not even rust or signs of any leakage whatsoever... I mean, except for the brake dust from wear, they looked like they had been vacuum sealed all this time, I was even shoked to find them in such great shape!

So I think the culprit might have been the brake cleaner spray that I used to wash the brake dust and old grease points away from the brake assembly. Maybe this stuff weakend the seals, causing them to burst. I've been doing brakes on all my cars for years, and I always used brake cleaner spray before and this is the first time this happens, so who knows, maybe another brilliant Ford design!

Well, now I'm thinking to stick with just a plain water hose down from now on to wash the brakes off... I just wanted to share my experience and pass the word.

Good info Ed! Thanks!

I usually replace the rear cylinders, because the rear brakes get attention so infrequently. Before installing, I use caliper grease and lubricate the piston cups and boots ... even tho they are brand new.

Another thing to watch for is the total slack in the rear brakes ... in other words, a bit of wear in the drum, a bit of wear on the shoes, ... it all adds up, and can be enough total slack to allow the/a piston to come out of the cylinder. This is especially true if only one piston moves and the other sticks a bit. To avoid this, before the brake pedal is pushed for the first time after rework ... manually turn the adjusting screw until the shoes make slight contact on the drums. Then the bleeding can safely begin.

I read you 12Ounce, I know what you mean!

I also do like to replace the Wheel Cylinders, but only when the show signs that they're about to fail... like the old saying goes, "if it aint broke, don't fix it"!
But now that I ponder on it, I think they were weak and close to fail already since the brake pedal was so low before. I think the brake cleaner spray may have accelerated the process, which I'm glad happened... better now than later.

Also I always do adjust the adjusting screw to make the drum tight, as a matter of fact I don't install the drum back in till it barely fits over the new shoes going in! And if it still spins freely I turn the adjusting screw from the backing plate hole till its snug and dragging a bit.

Thanks for pointing that out!

Now my problem is with the ABS light. It used to come on every now and then just like everyone elses on this fine forum and I always blamed it on the fluid not being topped of at the reservoir like everyone else, since it's so hard to reach the fill neck and I already knew that as the possible cause.
Anyway, before, the ABS light used to come ON randomly and also go OFF randomly. But now it stays ON all the time, from key ON to key OFF. I made sure it was topped off this time, even so I over filled the reservoir... could that be the cause then?

Like I said before, brake operation is better now than I can ever remember, so I'm not concerned about the ABS light coming ON. I'm just annoyed at it thinking it was gonna get fixed this time!

I have a similar situation. The "trac-control" message (I forget exactly the words) is coming on after a few yards of travel after startup... especially on hot dry days. I've been thru this before years ago, after checking all the wheels ... cleaning the ABS probes, and replacing some probes ... I got the system code-read at dealer. This all led me to replacing the trac/ABS controller (about $300) underneath driver's seat. Now the problem is back. I feel pretty sure the controller has failed again.

I have just made some changes to the body of the controller in an effort to get the printed circuits and chips to run a bit cooler. Hopefully this modification will be installed today or tomorrow. I will report back on results.

I just drop by the stealership for some shocking news: The traction-control/ABS controller (XC22-2C353-BA) is now $600+, plus $120 core charge. I hope my rework works ... but don't hold your breath!

BTW, this thing is located underneath the floorpan ... beneath the driver's seat. Didn't mean to confuse!

I am thinking that the brake clean was not the problem at all.....but the extra movement that took place when the shoes were changed out.
That brake line connection to the wheel cylinder can be a real pain to get loose also.

One thing that can be causing the ABS light to be on is a wheel speed sensor being too far away from the exciter ring (the gear like part on the axle).
I know first hand how easy it is to bump a wheel speed sensor out of place.

Hmmm... I just sprayed the heck out of those speed sensors and didn't even brushed them or wiped them off just to make sure they werent disturbed. But you might be right wiswind!

I had a tough time getting the trailling shoe away from the parking brake level and might have touched the speed sensor while manuvering the old shoe into a confortable position.

I really don't like the ABS anyway, so I don't mind it being off... We don't have to worry about snow and ice on this part of town and already told the wife (primary driver) not to be concerned by the light being on all the time!

Hi,

3,8/96 : I pulled the fuse of the ABS years ago, and had only one or two occasions, when it could have possibly helped (fresh rain) - actually I had two occasions which where close, as at low speed it released when I should stop for another car ... luckily they where watching the traffic and nothing happened (aside from my adrenalin).

Why pull the fuse? because of that light, coming on and off. Being on that topic now for more than a year and now working from under the car I get the idea, that this might be a problem with the cables of the sensors. As they have to withstand vibrations any metal string will eventually break, what will not necessarily lead to failure, as the ends will stay in contact - until moved and then giving erratic sensing. I have had this before in a generator - not finding anything until in frustration poking around - hitting a broken wire whose ends where sitting perfectly in place.

The rules are simple: what will it most probably be? - rule that out. What is absolutly unlikely? Your problem will be the next one to this:loser:

Check your (~20 pin) ABS connector on the ABS hydraulic control unit under the battery in the engine compartment. Mine had leaked slightly conductive brake fluid into the controller connector and it was causing the ABS to malfunction, especially on hot, dry days. A cleanout and brake fluid level sensor harness replacement fixed.