Do it ur-self Bodykit??

Dude, wouldn't it have been quicker to save money and buy a bodykit rather than build it yourself? I've been following this thread for sometime now and you've been working on that kit for a VERY long time now.


I go to school i work 3 months in the summer time and i get about 9000kr thats 750$ about a littel less ...... and a bodykit kost about 15000 kr to 20000kr here it would take 2 summer the same time i have been building it .....and i would have finisht faster if i had time ....but schools a b%#h and the winter was to cold to work with the glue.....but the final exams at school are here and then ill have more time to finish so im thinking i will be ready in july or augst....the body i mean. The engine is what i have been saveing money for :naughty:


p.s i like to build .....if finish il be the only one with that kind of kit :) makes me feel all warm inside :p :evillol:

lol

I have a couple questions.

First of all, how do you attach the pieces, once its finished, to your car?
Between layers of fiberglass do you have to use glue or will it just bond to the other layers without the glue? I have been reading up oon this idea for some time. I have Lots of liquid foam( you add a chem to it and it expands, when i helped a friend make a mold for a KITCAR. But he left before he got to make the molds. HELP!

thx Matt

Also, Deadman, when you finished the foam and you went to fiber glass, did you just put your 7 or more layers on the outside or did you put like 2 to make a mold? If you made a mold what release agent did you use?

thx Matt

Well I'm nearing completion and I would like to thank all you who gave me hints and tips for fiberglass. my very first fiberglass project.

not bad for an amatuer?

well i cant put the pic here but please search by username in gallery for "dubt" and check out the pics!

:screwy: you made a body for a fricken Metro? Umm... ok. Good 4 U

Did you take pics of the buildup?

on that website... where the guy made his own... in step 5 he says after the fiberglass is dry.. put putty on it... putty? what putty.. help me out.. triing to use my creativity to make a sweet as kit for my 95 civic ex.. help me out

by putty he prolly means bondo. too much bondo will crack tho. if you want someone to talk to about bondo, get ahold of eckoman he's very knowledgable.

sand the fiberglass as smooth as you can get it before going to the bondo. after bondo, using a "glazing putty" to fill in the fine holes

on that website... where the guy made his own... in step 5 he says after the fiberglass is dry.. put putty on it... putty? what putty.. help me out.. triing to use my creativity to make a sweet as kit for my 95 civic ex.. help me out

Well, the putty he is refering to could be glazing putty. This is used to fill in and smooth out the fine "pinholes" which can form. As for the part about smoothing out the glass once it's dried...

Sand it smooth with 80 grit sandpaper. You don't want to sand the crap out of it, go lightly and not hard if you can. You are trying to knock down the high spots and level it out. Remember, sanding can be time consuming, so have patience. Then, you can go over it with 180 grit to smooth it back out. If you still want it smoother after you've down this, you have 2 options. 1) fiberglass resin. Put some of that on there, and then sand it smooth to achive a smoother finish if one is desired. The 2nd option is a gel coat. There's a product called "Monster Gel" or something simlair. It's a gel coat for fiberglass used for boats. Put on the "gel coat" and again, lightly sand it to smooth it out. Remember, after you sand the fiberglass smooth (this is a neccasry step in fiberglassing, 80 grit to knock down the high spots, 180 to help smooth it back out after you've finished with the 80), use one of those products if a smoother surface is desired, don't use bondo. Bondo cracks very easily if put on too thick. You can't put it on very thick at all. Also, do not get it wet at all...period. Remember though, no matter what you use, you don't need it thick, you are just trying to flatten out and smooth the surface, so you don't need to put it on thick. When it comes to bondo, think of it this way...how many of the good, qaulity respected companies that make hand-laid fiberglass body kits use bondo to smooth the bumper out...there's a reason it's not the product of choice.

^^ one thing tho.. assuming that they didn't lay down the fg very smooth..they'd prolly need to stick with the 80 grit a while to really get it even. i know that even i still lay some uneven fg and i'veworked with the stuff for a while now


also-- eckoman(james right?) you should be glad to know that i'm finally starting on my interior work!(diy wrapping seats, rests, painting panels etc) hahah its about freakin time. i'll take some in progress pics for ya.
i've got it all stripped out right now. i just need to finish clear coating my side mouldings and those front and rear lips i got(which i'll finish tonight). then i can really get crackin on the interior project.

Luke

^^ one thing tho.. assuming that they didn't lay down the fg very smooth..they'd prolly need to stick with the 80 grit a while to really get it even. i know that even i still lay some uneven fg and i'veworked with the stuff for a while now


also-- eckoman(james right?) you should be glad to know that i'm finally starting on my interior work!(diy wrapping seats, rests, painting panels etc) hahah its about freakin time. i'll take some in progress pics for ya.
i've got it all stripped out right now. i just need to finish clear coating my side mouldings and those front and rear lips i got(which i'll finish tonight). then i can really get crackin on the interior project.

Luke

Yup, you got my name right, lol. I'm glad tp see your finally starting on the interior project...keep me posted on how it goes and post pis when you have some of the project....so have you installed the lips and side moldings yet? Post a pic...I know you've been waiting for those lips to come for awhile now.

^^ base paint is all done on the front lip. rear lip has 2 coats of clear.. then it ran on me. i need to switch to a new clear coat tho. what i have sucks ass it comes out soo uneven it takes me soo long to wet sand it smooth that i ended up eating into the paint! talk about crappy quality.

i'll get pics up when the lips and mouldings are done, and then i'll have in-progress pics of the interior up in a week or so

Luke

^^ base paint is all done on the front lip. rear lip has 2 coats of clear.. then it ran on me. i need to switch to a new clear coat tho. what i have sucks ass it comes out soo uneven it takes me soo long to wet sand it smooth that i ended up eating into the paint! talk about crappy quality.

i'll get pics up when the lips and mouldings are done, and then i'll have in-progress pics of the interior up in a week or so

Luke

If the base coat is done, it shouldn't cost to much to have a body shop finish it off with several coats of clear (of a mobile paint touch up guy, if you know any).

nah i will just diy.. i just need to buy a better quality clear.

i'll get pics up as soon as its all done :)

nah i will just diy.. i just need to buy a better quality clear.

i'll get pics up as soon as its all done :)

What brand of clear did you use and what are you planning to use instead?

Well, keep me posted on how everything turns out.

it was just a cheap brand sold at a local place.

i got some new clear coat and it deffinitly turned out much more even. i finished up the front lip last night. just need to wait a week before using any rubbing compound on it.

the side mouldings are done but need to be sanded and then rubbed out. they were a little more uneven than the front lip because the front lip was just the new brand of clear coat, where as the side mouldings has 2 layers of the bad qual clear coat on them. i did wetsand those 2 layers down a bit with 1k grit but i didn't want to chew into the paint so..

the rear lip i am going to sand down completely and start over. i had a bad clear coat run and also somehow i missed a small strip with paint...all 4-5 times i coated the lip!!! soo yah idk what that was about but i'm just gonna sand it all down and start over.

in your opinion, should i sand all the way throught the paint and into the primer, and re primer it, or sand through all the clear and half way through the paint and just start with a few more layers of paint and then clear?

thanks

Luke

Well, I doubt you'd need to sand all the way through to the primer. I mean, they don't sand all the way to primer every time they paint a car. If I had the time though, I'd probabaly sand all the way to primer just because I am like that. I always try and sand all the way down when I am painting, but that's me. That's how I would do it. It also gives a more even surface, if you know what I mean. You have a partially painted area and a part not hit, so it's going to be a little un-even. Also, too many cost of paint is a bad thing, though you probably don't have enough costs on there to make a difference that way. If you sand partway though the paint and prep it all for painting right, re-paint and clear...it should come out okay. I would do some costs of high build prime and sand it down smooth to make sure the surface is even (a guide coat can help when sanding). You can follow with primer sealer if you want, though it's not excactly necassary if you are paint soon after the high build primer, like within a day.

^^ allrighty. thanks. oh and here's pics of the front lip installed.

http://www.rit.edu/~ltk6260/media/myciv/DSC02178.JPG
http://www.rit.edu/~ltk6260/media/myciv/DSC02179.JPG

looks lighter in the pics than it does in real life

what do you use to off set the plate like that ?

^^ i had a "Y" bracket that was holding the plate in the middle. i just unbolted it, and bolted it on the side where the foglights would mount. then bent the bars till i was satisfied. its not exactly what i wanted.. i think i might buy/make the cusco style plate relocator. there are lots of pics of that over in the ek section on www.jdmcivic.com


just slapped on the side mouldings today and got a pic.

http://www.rit.edu/~ltk6260/media/myciv/DSC02195.jpg

aight cool deal i just went out side and took mine off and those fuckers at honda drilled the plate housing right into my front bumber i mean come on now!!!

yah, previous owner OWNED my front bumper liscence plate holes. i wanna go to the dealership and get the plugs to try and hide them

Ikailburn, I know exactly what peice you are refering to that you used to relocate it. Yeah, it sucks how honda drills into the front bumper for part of the plate support and mounting too. Looks nice though offset, other than those darn holes. Maybe you could bolt something like a neuspeed plate bar (it's a bar over the top holes versus a frame) over the holes just to cover them up in the meantime.

^^ yah i thought about the neuspeed plate bar. but honda makes these plug things that are pre-painted and everything the plug those holes. i need to take a trip down to my local honda dealer and ask if they have them

Hey , what did you use as a release agent on the mold?

^^ who r ya talkin to?

^^ who r ya talkin to?

Anyone that has built a kit

crisco. j/k I've never built one because I get body kits for really cheap.

well they sell a pva mold release(pretty sure thats what its called).. but whenever i glass over something that i don't want to be stuck together.. i just mask it off using masking tape and aluminum foil

Posted by lkailburn - 06-10-2004 at 09:20 PM
well they sell a pva mold release(pretty sure thats what its called).. but whenever i glass over something that i don't want to be stuck together.. i just mask it off using masking tape and aluminum foil


SO aftter you have foiled over the foam and fiberglassed it to make the mold you put more foil on to make the final product?

noo.. when your making your kit..and you do it out of foam.. and you want to remove the foam after you glass..

i would do it like this:

build up the foam to as close as how you want it as you can get. wrap the whole thing with masking tape and aluminum foil. do 2 layers(so either 2 layers of tape, or 1 tape and 1 foil) glass the front. when the glass is 100% cured(wait 24 hrs just to be sure cuz warping sux ass trust me) then pull of the glass. then proceed to add your extra layers to the back side of that. be sure that the peice is not flexed when laying the glass. you want it to be sitting in its correct shape.

my biggest tip for anyone doing a kit: use the woven cloth fiberglass. don't use the chop mat!

if you want reasons why i'll post, but take my word for it

Hold up... i dont think your understanding my original question:
Posted by RSLaser - 06-10-2004 at 09:23 AM
Hey , what did you use as a release agent on the mold?


I meant AFTER you have the mold and yor making the final part, what did you use as a release, ive heard of PVA, but ive heard others use wax?

i'm not too familiar with the mold release products.. i haven't used em personally sorry i can't help ne-more

My kit is starting to come together finally, looks pretty rough, ill try to get some pics up soon.

pics pics pics :)

lkailburn, if you ever get those plate hole plugs from honda, post up the actaul part name and part number in case anyone wants the same. Some honda dealerships hacve a hard time finding things like that, so if you get a part name and number I am sure it wold make it easier for others...anyways, how's the interior coming?

Now that finals are over and schools out, I should be able to go back to the interior shop and do a little more, watch more, learn more, etc. My seats have been sittin there waiting for me to go back and work for a month while I finished up the term, etc. I just havn't been able to go there. It'll be nice to get back there.

^^ the plugs are part #26:
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&catcgry1=Civic&catcgry2=1997&catcgry3=2DR+DX&catcgry4=KA5MT&catcgry5=BUMPER

they are threaded so you'll need a nut if yours doesn't have the threaded peice glued to the back of the bumper(mine doesn't).

i've been trying to get some time to work on the interior.. but i have to replace my damn sunroof(long story). its 750(including tax, install the works) for a brand new one.. and insurance will only cover the cost of the glass... so i need to get that done. then i'll be more up to working on the projects. i still need to get my shocks and coils in.. i've been waiting because i had to take the car down to the shop every so often and i have to move it into our tiny garage each night(lack of sunroof leaves a rather large hole in the top of your car :p)

feels like this stuff is draggin on forever!! but hopefully this week i can get my ass down to the store, pick up some sand paper(i actually ran out! i was surprised). i'll sand the peices up.. then i still need to find a place that can match the oem light grey color found on my pillar bars and such....

i'll stop blabbin on and on about my car and projects ..haha

its good to hear your going to be able to get back to that shop and learn some more. be sure to share any tips you find about diy wrappin the seats.

lastly: here's my interior, as it sits presently:
http://www.rit.edu/~ltk6260/media/interior/DSC02187.JPG
http://www.rit.edu/~ltk6260/media/interior/DSC02188.JPG

Well sorry about the pics, but the cameras not workin...

lkailburn are you paintin all the pieces that arent in there or are you missing them?

^^ yep i'm painting them.. and rewrapping the armrests with vinyl..

i need to find someone who can match the light grey color of my pilar bars. thats the color i will be painting them with.

sweet post some pics when its done.

Okay, first off, lkailburn, will you or your grnadma be sewing the seat covers? If you are doing it and don't sew much, I recommned getting a lot of practice before starting on the seats. Secondly, remember to tack seam allowences into account when tracing the patterns. You can either trace it with the stock seam allowence on the pattern, or you can trace the part that shows and then add the extra outline for the seam allowence. I do it the first way myself, I've seen my boss and my mother do the second way). Also, when you sew the seat cover, make sure to allow the proper seam width, otherwise it will be too loose (or too tight). Also, some seat parts have a foam backing, so you'll need toget 1/4 foam for a seat to use and glue the pattern to the foam backing for those peices. 1/4" headliner material will work too. Try and glue just the outside parts, you don't need to glue the whole darn thing like crazy...you want enough to hold it in place so it don't slip before you sew, thats all. Also, when taking the cover to the bars in the seat). You'll need some new hog rings and hog ring pliers to reattatch the new rings to the seat. You can re-use the metal bars that go through the middle of the seat cusion that hog ring to the metal bars in the seat foam, though you'll probably want to get a new strip to put the bvar through. It basically is glued down to the backside of the butt coushin and sew down the middle (thats the straight line through the middle of the butt peice you see when the covers on). Sorry I don't have any good pics and sorry I don't make more sense, I forgot some of the names of the materials, and I already have that part of the coushin hog-rings to the seat for the time being (I gotta redo a peice of it though).

As far as the sunroof...I am guessing whatever happened wasn't good, lol...I am sorry to hear about your unfortunate circumstance.

eckoman--no prob, you make perfect sense cuz i've already removed the rear seats, and pulled the fabric off. i've also already unstitched the front seat cloth(i purchased a set of front seat cloth from a bud online so i don't have to unstitch mine)

thanks for the tip about only using the glue around the outside for the foam backing. with the hog rings, why can't i reuse the ones that were there? just curious. as for the bars that run through the middle of the seat, those were not glued to the seat foam, they were fished through a mesh "pocket" that was sewn to the seat cloth.

as for sewing the new peices: i will be doing the sewing.. i've never sewn anything before but my aunt's are like expert sewers.. my grandmother was aswell.. but sadly she passed away. i've discussed with my aunts the best way to sew them together, they recommened using the longest stitch possible(said something like there is a foot peddle specifically for leather/vinyl applications). the long stitch spreads the holes apart so they don't act like a perferated line which is what would happen with a normal stitch. then they said after that is sewn, to fold those two flaps down. and sew those down. now i know you'll end up seeing those threads.. but thats ok, i'll find a matching thread so its not too noticable.

--Luke

eckoman--no prob, you make perfect sense cuz i've already removed the rear seats, and pulled the fabric off. i've also already unstitched the front seat cloth(i purchased a set of front seat cloth from a bud online so i don't have to unstitch mine)

thanks for the tip about only using the glue around the outside for the foam backing. with the hog rings, why can't i reuse the ones that were there? just curious. as for the bars that run through the middle of the seat, those were not glued to the seat foam, they were fished through a mesh "pocket" that was sewn to the seat cloth.

as for sewing the new peices: i will be doing the sewing.. i've never sewn anything before but my aunt's are like expert sewers.. my grandmother was aswell.. but sadly she passed away. i've discussed with my aunts the best way to sew them together, they recommened using the longest stitch possible(said something like there is a foot peddle specifically for leather/vinyl applications). the long stitch spreads the holes apart so they don't act like a perferated line which is what would happen with a normal stitch. then they said after that is sewn, to fold those two flaps down. and sew those down. now i know you'll end up seeing those threads.. but thats ok, i'll find a matching thread so its not too noticable.

--Luke

That's what I ent by the bar, it passes through this mess tubing tingy that is sewed down (forget the name for the part). As for the hog rigns...well...I suppose you car TRY to reuse the stock ones, but for me (and most upholstery shops) it's easier to get new ones. It makes removable all the easier, since the stock ones are already clamped into shpae, etc. That would make trying to get them on tough, and getting them off without ruining them more is tough as well. New ones are easy to put on, it's just line up and clamp em down. As for the sticht, I've never heard of anyone double stitching on a civic seat. Some seats have that design, ours don't. You can do it if you want, just make sure you can sew STRAIGHT. Otherwise, study how they go toghter stock. Yoiu can sew trhe line that way, and just fold it right side out. The stitch should holdl.

yah.. i think i might just stick to how they are sewn together from the factory. i doubt i would be able to keep a straight enough stitch line to do those other stitches which would be visible.

any who.. i just ran into something that pissed me off beyond belief!!!!! i was tracing out a peice of the cloth on the vinyl. i was doing it on my dinning room table so i decided to cover the table with some newspaper just so i don't get stuff on the vinyl.. so i get a perfect trace of the stock peice, pull it off and was gonna cut the vinyl, when i flipped it over, and saw that some of the ink from the newspaper bled onto the vinyl!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

it doesn't come out either.. i'm ticked off beyond belief because this is supposed to be the marine grade vinyl.. the vinyl that is stain resistant, uv protected etc etc.. and its like if it already stained.. what the hell is the point of putting it in my car!! i don't know what to do now..

any ideas james?

thanks,
Luke

yah.. i think i might just stick to how they are sewn together from the factory. i doubt i would be able to keep a straight enough stitch line to do those other stitches which would be visible.

any who.. i just ran into something that pissed me off beyond belief!!!!! i was tracing out a peice of the cloth on the vinyl. i was doing it on my dinning room table so i decided to cover the table with some newspaper just so i don't get stuff on the vinyl.. so i get a perfect trace of the stock peice, pull it off and was gonna cut the vinyl, when i flipped it over, and saw that some of the ink from the newspaper bled onto the vinyl!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

it doesn't come out either.. i'm ticked off beyond belief because this is supposed to be the marine grade vinyl.. the vinyl that is stain resistant, uv protected etc etc.. and its like if it already stained.. what the hell is the point of putting it in my car!! i don't know what to do now..

any ideas james?

thanks,
Luke

Hmm...there are a few ideas...get ahold of a product from auto magic called special cleaner concentrate. Dilute it some, maybe 8:1...stronger than the bottle says...spray it on the spot and scrub with a stiff brush or toothbrush...then scrub with your figures behind a towel and wipe it off...if this doesn't lighten it...there is one last trick, though I don't know if it will lift the fabirc dye or not...Laquer thinner...it's an old detailers trick. Wet a cloth with laquer thinner and rub/wipe the stained part...it should lighten it and/or remove it. If that doesn't work...I don't know. Usually, after the special, if laqcuer doesn't work, it's not going to bugde. Was this on the visable size of the fabric or the back side it stained?

Try tracing it with the visable size up...use chalk to trace it, as it will come off with a little spray and wipe easy if you need once it's all cut out. This way, you can remove the lines when you need, but they are there when you need em, plus you won't run the bleeding risk on the visable side. Also, the relief cuts, the little v-shaped cut marks in the stock peices...mark those as well. Make sure they stay marked, or cut the small v's into the pattern you made. When you sew the cover, you'll use those to line the peices up properly, helping make sure everything lines up correct when you sew. Also, sew some test peices before you tackle the actual seat cover...trust me, lol.

i will deffinitly sew some test peices before i attempt the seats. another project is making a 2 tone shift boot to match the seats(using the same vinyl). i've already traced out the 4 peices of the boot and have cut out the 2 in the vinyl i have. i still need to pick up my charcoal vinyl.

anywho, i'll try what you mention on removing the stain. the stain is on the visible side of the vinyl. the way i had it was visible side down on the newspaper, and i was using a regular pen to trace out the stock peice onto the back. the pen did not bleed through.. it was the ink from the paper. but from now on i will just use a pencil on the back side. i've got the v's traced into the pattern already. but thanks for checkin to make sure i had em :)

shit maybe we should move all this to an interior post.. seeing as tho this is the diy bodykit thread hahah. can we get an admin to do that

i will deffinitly sew some test peices before i attempt the seats. another project is making a 2 tone shift boot to match the seats(using the same vinyl). i've already traced out the 4 peices of the boot and have cut out the 2 in the vinyl i have. i still need to pick up my charcoal vinyl.

anywho, i'll try what you mention on removing the stain. the stain is on the visible side of the vinyl. the way i had it was visible side down on the newspaper, and i was using a regular pen to trace out the stock peice onto the back. the pen did not bleed through.. it was the ink from the paper. but from now on i will just use a pencil on the back side. i've got the v's traced into the pattern already. but thanks for checkin to make sure i had em :)

shit maybe we should move all this to an interior post.. seeing as tho this is the diy bodykit thread hahah. can we get an admin to do that

Hmm...I don't know...you can pm silverY2Kcivic and ask....he's pretty cool.

Also, a shift boot can be diceptivly hard to sew...especailly the last seam when it's all going toghter...you have to sew the seam without sewing through to any other part of the boot...I cheat....I made the pattern, got the material and thread and asked my mom sew mine, in black cf vinly with a burgandy double stich stitch line...lol. She's a seamstress, so she knows her stuff...turned out real nice too...much nicer than my first attempt would have been I bet. That's the only thing I've done that ne though, I'm trying to sew everything esle myself.

i bet that boot looks pretty good. how are the upholstry shop "classes" going?

i bet that boot looks pretty good. how are the upholstry shop "classes" going?

Yeah, the boot looks really nice. I am very pleased with it, it came out prefect.

The "classes" as going okay. I got sick last week, so I havn't been in there in a bit, but all my stuff is still there waiting for me. I got to finish the upper part of the 2 front seats, then redo 1 section or so on the butt cushion parts. They'll look really nice when they're done. It's coming along, abit slowly, lol. What can I say, I am talking my sweat time, lol.

maybe I'll get a pic one of these days of the boot or part of the seat.

yah pics would be great. just curious, what car are these seats from that your redoing? i asked around to see if anyone knew if the cloth patterns from my front seats were identicala(driver and passenger).. i was curious because of the bottom cushion. having the seat belt on different sides and stuff. it would obviously be easier to just make 2 copies of the template than pulling apart the 2 sets of cloth that i bought.. but if they are different i suppose i'd have to.

thanks,
Luke

yah pics would be great. just curious, what car are these seats from that your redoing? i asked around to see if anyone knew if the cloth patterns from my front seats were identicala(driver and passenger).. i was curious because of the bottom cushion. having the seat belt on different sides and stuff. it would obviously be easier to just make 2 copies of the template than pulling apart the 2 sets of cloth that i bought.. but if they are different i suppose i'd have to.

thanks,
Luke

I'm wrapping seats from a 94 Integra...I got em in perfect condition from someone in town for $100 for the set. They were the seats from his car before he put sparco racing buckets in. I have my stock civic seats in the car while I'm doing this (so ithe car looks like nothing is being done to the interior at the moment, lol). Anyways, you can USE one seat as a template for both seats, although the seats are not Indentical. Usually, they are a reverse of each other (mirror image). You will trace out one the patterns for one seat with the pattern peices facing up (the part tha t shows is up). You trace this way for the seat which the pattern came from (If the pattern is from the passenger seat, you trace the fabric for the passenger seat with the pattern facing up). Then for the other seat, you turn the pattern over (part tha would show facing down) and you trace the fabric for the drivers seat that way. This should give you a pattern for both seats without having to tear both apart (for the front).

ahhh james your are a genious.. i thought that might be the answer hahah. now i just need to figure out which seat bottom i currently have all taken apart.... :)

ahhh james your are a genious.. i thought that might be the answer hahah. now i just need to figure out which seat bottom i currently have all taken apart.... :)


I am always glad to help:) If you have any more questions feel free to ask...good luck figuring which seat bottom you have apart...it the one that's not apart still toghter to the point you can look and see, any marking, etc..I am assuming neither is on the coushins anymore....if you have any front seats in the car in one peice still (I think you said this isn't the seat cover from in your car you are tearing apart) you can try and lay the butt peices over the seats and see on which seats it lines up...they may look similer...but a few of the peices are bound to be different, even if slightly.

well james.. i'm sad to say.. i'm giving up on the rehupolstering project before it even really began. actually i've taken a complete 180 degree spin on my interior plans. i picked up a complete set of front and rear rsx seats in 100% mint condition. the seats are black on black with almost a microsuede and cloth...very nice material :)

http://www.rit.edu/~ltk6260/media/interior/new/DSC02306.jpg
http://www.rit.edu/~ltk6260/media/interior/new/DSC02304.jpg

i can't wait to get these in. all the seats are gonna take some work to get in. but i'll save that for my walkthrough thread instead of sneaking it all into here, the diy bodykit thread.

_luke

kickass seats. how much did they cost?

hhahah you wouldn't even want to know..

260 for front and rear.. and i've got copies of the paperwork showing the fabric treatment was done.. :p

Luke, where did you get front and rear RSX seats for $260? Anyways, my seats are coming along. They'd be done buy now if I rushed, but I 'm in no hurry, lol. They certainly look a heck of a lot better. I'll post some pics of them when I'm done.

260 for the front and rears?! Try getting GSR seats front/rear! They go for like 500+ on eBay

i saw em for sale in a local based import car forum. went and checked em out, and offered 260.. :) its a steel for the seats. the fronts alone usually go for 3-350ish for cloth. and i didn't have to pay shipping, he lives like 5 mins from me.

james, get some pictures up here asap bisch! hahh i wanna see :)

_luke