CR-VTEC discussion

first, if you don't know what I'm talking about read www.crvtec.com

I'll get the topic/ discussion going.

So if I did the B20 block w/ B16A head would headers for a B16 fit the application and clear the motor ok?

I am thinking of building it and putting it into a 5th or 6th gen hatch.

Anyone with any CR-VTEC experiences?

yes, they will fit fine


as for CRVTEC experience, I have none...ask me what you want and I will answer to the best of my ability:lol2:

I love how we're all so technical in here :bloated:

I don't know.

Maybe try B18C5 headers (JDM 4-1 or something else designed for it)

That guy Jay on ff-squad used JDM 4-1s on his CRVTEC and the seemed to clear the block ok.

peace
boi

screw the b16a header, i would much rather see a turbo manifold and a downpipe on the bitch!!!

any b-series header will clear the block, oil pan, and front crossmemeber(5th gen)....

Originally posted by i like naked girls
i would much rather see a turbo manifold and a downpipe on the bitch!!!

PSSSTTT

But what about the turbo?

:p

Originally posted by delsolguy


PSSSTTT

But what about the turbo?

:p


details details details....geez. hmmm... maybe we can use the opening for a huge exhaust gas recirculation system untill we pick up the snail?

Yeah any B series header SHOULD clear it........ but just to be safe, I'd get one for a B18c anyways....

As far as the actual CR-VTEC however, do you plan on de-stroking it with the B17a crank? Or no? You could either keep the shitty r/s ratio...OR I belive endyne will make custom lenmght high strenght rods to get you a near perfect r/s.... but it will cost ya...

Within the next month or so, I plan on buying an 88 CRX Si (can get it for 900 bucks :)) ANd puttign a B20z in there....

After a few months (and lots of $$ spent on the B16 rex I already have) I'll eventually tap it for the oil line etc, and put a B16 head on. Chances are I'd see about the custom lenght endyne rods as well... just imagine a 2.1L CRVTEC with a near perfect r/s!? :) You could easily upgrade the valve train and rev it all to hell... or keep it low compression and slap an intercooled t3/t4 setup on it and blow some Vipers away! hehe

The b20z block is very turbo friendly :)

B17 crank (b16 if b17 unavailable), ITR cams, JE rods and pistons (11 or so compression), B20z block, B16 head, Skunk2 throttle body, DC Sports 4-1 for b18, GSR tranny (LS for turbo), JUN flywheel, yada yada yada

t3/t4 turbo w/ 8:1 compresson if you go turbo with it. Jackson Racing also builds superchargers for B20's as well.

hmm.......

See that's the thing I don't get. In my opinion, why de-stroke it? A B17a crank will put it roughly at 1.9L... why use the B20 block if you're not gonna put out at least 2.0L? It would be easier and less expensive to go LSVTEC otherwise....

The only real reason to use a B17a crank (as I am sure you know) is to improve the R/S ratio...

But it's not gonna make much more power than the LSVTEC setup, and it will cost more.... I figure keep it @ a 2.1L setup and get custom rods....endyne or probe racing. That way, you can easily get H22 power from a B block, instead of a glorified LSVTEC... and your handling will not be compromised at all....

As for turbo, the CRVTEC is absolutely a monster.

I'd rather stay away from superchargers, as a turbo is more my style :)

But yeah, a t3/t4 on low compression with an LS tranny would be insane.... imagine a 60 shot on it to spool the turbo? Can we say 10's? Don't doubt it..... ;)

I think I would rather turbo a b18c1 than a b20b or z...that's just me though

The B20z/b is MUCH more turbo friendly.... the block is much stronger (cylinder sleeving) and has lower compression....

the B20 is a much better choice for turbo than a B18c.....

Not everyone is concerned with turbo's.

But that's what I love about the B20. Build it NA, Build it Fi, either way, it'll have gobs of torque and kick ass.

http://www.importreview.com/d_2.0.html

Check out those dyno charts, that's HP to THE WHEELS........!!!

With custom length rods, you can keep it a 2.1L beast...

Either go ALL OUT (bye bye streetability) and go all JUN and Toda internals...

But this is what I;d do....

Skunk2: Intake Manifold, Cams, Titanium Dual Valve srpings, retainers
Spoon Sports Cam gears
CTR pistons
Overbored TB
JDM 4-1 Header
Comptech exhaust
AEM CAI

then the mandatory ignition/fuel uprades...

easily 250+ to the wheels........ an all motor monster.

Originally posted by Phatwhippin_CRX
The B20z/b is MUCH more turbo friendly.... the block is much stronger (cylinder sleeving) and has lower compression....

the B20 is a much better choice for turbo than a B18c.....

people have their reasons for turbocharging a b20 or b18b, I would rather turbo a vtec motor myself

Originally posted by madtownhonda


people have their reasons for turbocharging a b20 or b18b, I would rather turbo a vtec motor myself

True....... but you can't get a crazy set of cams, or there will be horrendous valve overlap, unless you severely retard your timing....

The VTEC motors, contrary to what alot of people say (mostly non-VTEC guys) are good with turbo, as long as overlap is controlled..

Hell, I saw a dyno where a 485hp civic lost 112hp when VTEC was disabled.. you can't deny it makes power.

But the reason I'd rather turbo a B20 over ANY other B series motor, is beacuse the cylinder sleeves are the strongest of them all...

Hell I plan on turboing my B16a rex in summer.... but I'll admit, the B20 is the best B series engine to turbo... without a doubt..

Originally posted by Phatwhippin_CRX


True....... but you can't get a crazy set of cams, or there will be horrendous valve overlap, unless you severely retard your timing....

The VTEC motors, contrary to what alot of people say (mostly non-VTEC guys) are good with turbo, as long as overlap is controlled..

Hell, I saw a dyno where a 485hp civic lost 112hp when VTEC was disabled.. you can't deny it makes power.

But the reason I'd rather turbo a B20 over ANY other B series motor, is beacuse the cylinder sleeves are the strongest of them all...

Hell I plan on turboing my B16a rex in summer.... but I'll admit, the B20 is the best B series engine to turbo... without a doubt..

oh well...we have different opinions....the only advantage I see with the b20 is the 1 piece design of the cylinder casting and the slight edge in displacement....I still would rather turbo a b18c

personally, going turbo I'd do B18B just cuz doin' the whole setup w/ turbo is soooo cheap to do. Not as much hp, but much more friendly to your wallet.

Yes, defintely more wallet-friendly.... or a turbo on a B20z (not a CRVTEC).....

Less power? Possibly........ but that extra .2L of displacement, coupled with low compression pistons will most likely make up for the absence of VTEC. Those .2L may not make much of a difference to start... but add FI and watch a 1.8L non-VTEC DOHC motors' HP pull far away from a 1.6L DOHC non-VTEC.

If I didn't mind on not being quite as fast NA, then I would have gone B18a/b.... and then just built it for an eventual turbo. But I didn't want to drive around for a year or so with a b18a/b when I could get more power from a B16a and eventually turbo that...

Originally posted by Phatwhippin_CRX
Yes, defintely more wallet-friendly.... or a turbo on a B20z (not a CRVTEC).....

Less power? Possibly........ but that extra .2L of displacement, coupled with low compression pistons will most likely make up for the absence of VTEC. Those .2L may not make much of a difference to start... but add FI and watch a 1.8L non-VTEC DOHC motors' HP pull far away from a 1.6L DOHC non-VTEC.

If I didn't mind on not being quite as fast NA, then I would have gone B18a/b.... and then just built it for an eventual turbo. But I didn't want to drive around for a year or so with a b18a/b when I could get more power from a B16a and eventually turbo that...

lower compression doesn't mean the engine is better...it means it can handle more boost...boost pressure is a byproduct of flow rate (CFM)

advantages to a high compression turbocharged motor:
1. the intake charge (A/F mixture is compressed moreso than it's low compression counterpart) is cooler than a low compression motor, therefore the turbo has a lower operating temp and doesn't have to work as hard

2. it doesn't need as much boost to obtain the same power numbers

3. full boost comes quicker and you remain at full boost for a longer period of time (especially with a high revving VTEC motor)

4. It makes power before the turbo spools up (a b20 will do this too)

A controlled amount of overlap is good.....the only reason overlap is bad is when boost pressure is lower than backpressure, thus causing the spent exhaust gases to be "pushed" back into the combustion camber diluting the fresh intake charge (reversion)...you couple the turbo with a free flowing turbo exhaust a larger DP and a 3" cat and you can come pretty close to 100% VE, depending on the size of the turbo...but seeing as you have some power down low from the higher CR and smaller amount of time to full boost, you can have a bigger turbo...the bigger the turbo, the lower the backpressure...your sacrifice is a little turbo lag, but more power up top where Honda motors make power (especially the VTEC motors)

so no doubt the b20 is a good motor, but I would rather have a b18c....my next choice would definetly be a b20...if I was on a controlled budget, I would get the b18b...If I had unlimited funds, I would build a turbo CRVTEC...so basically it all comes down to how much money you are willing to spend or have at your disposal:lol2:

HI, just to let you know i feel bad if anyone went out and bought all that stuff for a build. If you wanna do it right ask someone whose done it before. I know the headers for a b16 DEFINETLY WONT FIT.... the B18c's should fit BUT may require grinding of the block. The B16 block is shorter then the b18, and as far as i know the B20 is just about a inch or so taller then the b18. The LS/Vtec with 1.8 isnt the same as a cr-vtec with 1.9L of displacement. theres still a hell of alot more torque maybe 15 lb/tq. The cheapest to build is the Cr-Vtec, get a GSR head, stay N/A, get some CTR pistons and cams, port and polish the head. to match the bore of the b20 block. and get that sucker tuned with basic bolt ons, you wont put down 250 like that guy said... you probally will never see 250HP from a b series all motor without having to rebuild it every 10k miles. I dont think id go with a B16 or b17 crank you dont just lose displacement you also lower your CR, if your going to do something like that get some JDM CTR rods, they are the strongest B series rods availible.

Just read and ask questions, dont just jump into this kind of stuff. best thing to do is find someone whose built one and ask them for help and advice cause they know first hand.

JJ

Originally posted by SpoonManEK9
HI, just to let you know i feel bad if anyone went out and bought all that stuff for a build. If you wanna do it right ask someone whose done it before. I know the headers for a b16 DEFINETLY WONT FIT.... the B18c's should fit BUT may require grinding of the block. The B16 block is shorter then the b18, and as far as i know the B20 is just about a inch or so taller then the b18. The LS/Vtec with 1.8 isnt the same as a cr-vtec with 1.9L of displacement. theres still a hell of alot more torque maybe 15 lb/tq. The cheapest to build is the Cr-Vtec, get a GSR head, stay N/A, get some CTR pistons and cams, port and polish the head. to match the bore of the b20 block. and get that sucker tuned with basic bolt ons, you wont put down 250 like that guy said... you probally will never see 250HP from a b series all motor without having to rebuild it every 10k miles. I dont think id go with a B16 or b17 crank you dont just lose displacement you also lower your CR, if your going to do something like that get some JDM CTR rods, they are the strongest B series rods availible.

Just read and ask questions, dont just jump into this kind of stuff. best thing to do is find someone whose built one and ask them for help and advice cause they know first hand.

JJ

"Port and polish the head. to match the bore of the b20 block."
WHAT? Since when does the head have anything to do with the bore of a block?


Plus, you're telling whom to read? CivSiGuy...hmm...i wonder how he's jumping into it w/o asking questions when he STARTED A THREAD ON IT. :rollseyes:


JDM CTR rods are the strongest B series rods available? What about Crower FORGED rods and Eagle rods??? I have a feeling those are stronger than oem Civic R rods that won't even fit correctly w/o the use of a B16 crank and other such things (if even then)

__________________________________________________ __

Now, I would NOT destroke a CRVTEC...R/S ratio isn't everything and the B20 R/S ratio isn't all that bad.

Why would people stroke motors if the R/S ratio would be ruined that much? They wouldn't....ever heard of a 2.6L DOHC VTEC motor? Check out this month's SCC...2.6L of hardcore H22 power :D

Screw R/S ratio - it isn't that bad on the B20 and you'll make more power/torque if u leave it 2.0L.

I picked up a bare b20b block for 50 bucks, yay.

If i were to use my b16a crank with my b16a head, what would the rod length need to be in order to preserve the "perfect" rod ratio?

Also, I would like to run 12:5:1 on the street with RC 310's and a hondata s200. people say that the sleeves are too weak to take this combo, any suggestions?

My cam choices are somewhat limited as i dont have the cash for JUN, I was thinking something like Skunk 2 stage 3's. or maybe a crower cam, once again any suggestions?

Everything from my b16a, with the exception of the rods, pistons, and head should bolt on to the b20b block right?

I picked up a bare b20b block for 50 bucks, yay.

If i were to use my b16a crank with my b16a head, what would the rod length need to be in order to preserve the "perfect" rod ratio?

Also, I would like to run 12:5:1 on the street with RC 310's and a hondata s200. people say that the sleeves are too weak to take this combo, any suggestions?

My cam choices are somewhat limited as i dont have the cash for JUN, I was thinking something like Skunk 2 stage 3's. or maybe a crower cam, once again any suggestions?

Everything from my b16a, with the exception of the rods, pistons, and head should bolt on to the b20b block right?


this thread is quite old just so you know, like a year. anyways you need not just a crower cam, but cams. and if you are gonna have this as your daily driver I dont reccomend stage 3's

also on b20vtec.com hes cracked his sleeves a few times from 12.5:1.

just use your B16 cams, and I dont wanna try and figure oput the rod length you need but if you go to crower it will tell you the rod length of a B16, and knowing it is 1.74:1 and doing math you could figure the cranks stroke, then figure out what length rod would need to accompanie that stroke to get 1.75:1 or anythign close. but you are going to get forged pistons/rods anyways, and hondas cranks are good, so whatever r/s you come up with wont be too big of a deal unless you are trying to make TONS of power. stock is 1.54 and those B18 vtecs that rev like crazy are not much better, 1.58 they just have oil squirters to cool the pistons a bit.

Im lookin to make at least 200whp daily driven, so, um yea.

Well, not really daily driven, maybe 3-4 days a week. I'll just roll on the stock head until i have money, i am really concerned about the bottom end tho, i want it to be reliable, but make gobs of power at the same time.
O, and 'd like to rev to at least 9k

you seriously dont need to rev that high, not even smart to do so on a stock B16 head, especially a stock B20 block.

you are gonna need a much stronger valvetrain, then with the block you are going to need all forged internals and a block guard or something or you are looking for problems,

what are you used to driving, you should get someone to give you a ride in their car that has some sort of basic LSVTEC or CRVTEC because my integra wasnt really FAST to me but I saw a dyno of one wiht bolt ons and I think it had like 113 to the wheels with bolt ons. but my car wasnt exactly slow either, you might be underestimating 200WHP, then again mayeb not but just something to think about.

oh yeah, and im not talking about my current one, i was talking about my old 94 hatch with I/H/E.

wow... i cant believe how much bs was flying around in this old post.

I know that i will need forged internals, the block is bare so thats my starting point.

Im looking at 11:1, maybe more for compression using je pistons, an l2 or b20 crank

possibly toda b cams, oversized valves, valve springs, and titanium retainers. I have done my homework, just need a little more advice.

why no more b16 crank?

because you would lose displacement

Hey Miata, did you get the B18 put in yet?

ok, thats better for compression, a good question is, have you thought about tuning, what ECU program are you going with? I like the AEM EMS(never used any but from the details on the site it looks like it has TONS of functions) but runs 1500 bucks plus options, hondatra s200 starts at 295, but to tune it yourself you gotta add like 500 bucks more worht of stuff I think and i even think dual stage launch control is like another add on fee. and the Zdyne super ECU cost like 1k+

Hey Miata, did you get the B18 put in yet?

started a post in the lets get technical forum... the main part of the swap will happen starting this weekend

Ok, guys… by no means am I a b-series expert. I just feel that there has been a lot of shit in here that just stood out as retarded. Some stuff I said might be wrong, but I highly doubt it. I didn’t want to do this, and quickly through info together off the top of my head to prove a point to some guys.

Upon further research, im sure anything else could be corrected.

As far as the actual CR-VTEC however, do you plan on de-stroking it with the B17a crank? Or no? You could either keep the shitty r/s ratio...

Why is the R/S ration on the CR-Vtec “shitty”? I don’t think its shitty… its all a compromise. It might not be as good to rev really high, but it definitely gives advantages in other ways.

OR I belive endyne will make custom lenmght high strenght rods to get you a near perfect r/s

I don’t quite understand what you mean by this. You want to keep the stock B20b/Z crank, but throw on some super-long rods? That doesn’t make sense. If it was that easy everyone would do it. Running longer rods would just have piston-to-head clearance issues.

Chances are I'd see about the custom lenght endyne rods as well... just imagine a 2.1L CRVTEC with a near perfect r/s!? :)

the only way to make 2.1L would be to stroke the engine even more or boring the cylinders. I don’t see how stroking the engine would “improve” the r/s ratio. If you are talking about going with a larger bore, that is possible with re-Sleeving. However you wont have a “perfect” r/s.

The b20z block is very turbo friendly :)

how so? How is it soooooo much better then doing a B18? It has skinnier sleeves.

B17 crank (b16 if b17 unavailable), ITR cams, JE rods and pistons (11 or so compression), B20z block, B16 head, Skunk2 throttle body, DC Sports 4-1 for b18, GSR tranny (LS for turbo), JUN flywheel, yada yada yada

Why would you use an LS tranny for turbo? This will just hold back your RPM, and slow down spool. Also, if going through all the trouble to make a CR-Vtec, just to turn around and throw a B16 crank into it is a complete waste IMO. Why not just get a B16 and sleeve it to the same bore, eliminating the hassles of vtec conversion.

In my opinion, why de-stroke it? A B17a crank will put it roughly at 1.9L... why use the B20 block if you're not gonna put out at least 2.0L? It would be easier and less expensive to go LSVTEC otherwise....

That completely defeats the purpose. Just doing an LS-Vtec instead of a B20 with B17 crank doesn’t make sense. You are talking about de-stroking it with the B17 crank to get a higher r/s. Why are you comparing it with the same r/s engine as you originally had, except with smaller bore?

But yeah, a t3/t4 on low compression with an LS tranny would be insane.... imagine a 60 shot on it to spool the turbo? Can we say 10's? Don't doubt it..... ;)

I highly doubt 10s, you would have to make the chassis REALLY light, and have some super sticky tires. Even still, I don’t see it. This isn’t the fast and the furious where every car runs “10 seconds or less” y0~!

Skunk2: Intake Manifold, Cams, Titanium Dual Valve srpings, retainers
Spoon Sports Cam gears
CTR pistons
Overbored TB
JDM 4-1 Header
Comptech exhaust
AEM CAI

then the mandatory ignition/fuel uprades...

easily 250+ to the wheels........ an all motor monster.

No way that will yield anywhere near 250whp. I would guess, 220whp TOPS. I highly doubt that even, get a better cam... It doesn’t even have a PnP…. Go look for a 250whp b-series engine, and take a look at their mods.

but that extra .2L of displacement, coupled with low compression pistons will most likely make up for the absence of VTEC. Those .2L may not make much of a difference to start... but add FI and watch a 1.8L non-VTEC DOHC motors' HP pull far away from a 1.6L DOHC non-VTEC.

what are you saying? 0.2L displacement is A LOT. Its what makes the B18C faster then the B16A.

The B16 block is shorter then the b18, and as far as i know the B20 is just about a inch or so taller then the b18.

As far as I know, ALL B18s have the same deck height as the B20B/Z. The B20A, and B21A are the only b-series taller then the B18 blocks.

wow... i cant believe how much bs was flying around in this old post.

Wow, someone who agrees. Maybe it is just because this thread is old? I don’t know, but its sad to see this as an archive where people can easily refer to the information.

I am not trying to proove anything you said wrong, just giving my .02




I don’t quite understand what you mean by this. You want to keep the stock B20b/Z crank, but throw on some super-long rods? That doesn’t make sense. If it was that easy everyone would do it. Running longer rods would just have piston-to-head clearance issues.

I know with a stroker kit the pin boss is moved up on the piston so with the increased stroke, the piston doesnt go hit the head, you could probably have something done with stock stroke, but a longer rod and a moved pin boss, would be the same effect, just jkeeping the piston from coming in contact with head. but now we are talking about full on custon rods and pistons, and we are talking some serious dough there.



how so? How is it soooooo much better then doing a B18? It has skinnier sleeves.

I havent torn off a B18 head, but I know on my B20, all the sleeves are the same peice, maybe the B18 they arent, i would assume they were though so I am not sure why it would be better.


Why would you use an LS tranny for turbo? This will just hold back your RPM, and slow down spool. Also, if going through all the trouble to make a CR-Vtec, just to turn around and throw a B16 crank into it is a complete waste IMO. Why not just get a B16 and sleeve it to the same bore, eliminating the hassles of vtec conversion.

(this one is all guess) off he line it might take longer to spool cuz you have to get to a higher speed before the RPM's are at the point where youd get full boost, but once you are going, when you shift you willl never drop below the rpms you make full boost at, and if you had a quick ratio trans youd be shifting more often not keeping the turbo full spool, so wiht the longer gears you have a longer amoutn of time where you are making the power and it is better? maybe though if you had some setup like hondata and had full throttle shift to where you never let off the gas and let the turbine slow down the shorter gears might be better as long as you can shift pretty quick.



That completely defeats the purpose. Just doing an LS-Vtec instead of a B20 with B17 crank doesn’t make sense. You are talking about de-stroking it with the B17 crank to get a higher r/s. Why are you comparing it with the same r/s engine as you originally had, except with smaller bore?

exactly right, it would just be cheaper but not in any way better


As far as I know, ALL B18s have the same deck height as the B20B/Z. The B20A, and B21A are the only b-series taller then the B18 blocks.

as far as I know the B20 is the same exact block design as the B18 just a 3mm larger bore.

I havent torn off a B18 head, but I know on my B20, all the sleeves are the same peice, maybe the B18 they arent, i would assume they were though so I am not sure why it would be better.


Nope, the B18 sleeves are not 1 piece. That's pretty much the only bad thing about boosting a b20. The 1 piece sleeves. Get the cylinders resleeved and you have one stout engine ready for boost with a good amount of torque.

wouldnt one peice be better? seems like one contiinuous sleeve for all 4 cylinders would hold up better than 4 individual sleeves.

The 1 piece sleeves are a lot thinner than the individual ones, so they can't handle boost as well.

arent they only thinner though because of the bore, not because they are one peice? so the downfall isnt because one peice is weaker than individual but tht they are thinner because of the increased bore.

yah, cause they are thinner, I don't know if they were the same size whether they would stand up to boost any better or not though.

Here's a little write up straight from a Honda engineer about the 1 piece design. http://dwolsten.tripod.com/articles/jan96a.html

I never knew that the B20 was the first tocome with a one peice sleeve like that, at least thats what i got from this article.

[url]

But this is what I;d do....

Skunk2: Intake Manifold, Cams, Titanium Dual Valve srpings, retainers
Spoon Sports Cam gears
CTR pistons
Overbored TB
JDM 4-1 Header
Comptech exhaust
AEM CAI

then the mandatory ignition/fuel uprades...

easily 250+ to the wheels........ an all motor monster.


WOW. i would think that since you have over 700 post that you would have been here long enough to know better. there is now way in hell that setp would make 250whp. it probably won't even touch 200whp. also the valve spring are not titanium the retainers are. i'm guessing that since you added the spoon cam gears it would add 15 whp cause its madd jdm yO! also if you think it would make that much power you should try looking for a better header like an-r, hytech,smsp,dtr,etc... and you should try looking for a better exhaust cause that comptech one isn't going to cut it. please think before you write something

I believe another slight problem with the 1 piece sleeves is that since they are connected they get hot spots where the two clyinders come together... I used to know of an EXCELLENT web site that had engine drawings and went through how the b20 was developed and its strengths and weaknesses but a while back I had to reload windows on my computer so I lost all my links. I haven't been able to find it again

did you read the one gscivic posted?

no i totally missed that one. but that is the one i was talking about!

I kinda thought it might have been. it is a good article.

I am not trying to proove anything you said wrong, just giving my .02.

its good to see someone else has positive feedback.

I know with a stroker kit the pin boss is moved up on the piston so with the increased stroke, the piston doesnt go hit the head, you could probably have something done with stock stroke, but a longer rod and a moved pin boss, would be the same effect, just jkeeping the piston from coming in contact with head. but now we are talking about full on custon rods and pistons, and we are talking some serious dough there.

that still would not yeild a "perfect" r/s ratio, while getting 2.1L displacement. The 89mm stroke and 137mm rod stock, would give around 1.54 r/s ratio. Piston pin relocation couldnt be up by 18.75mm to give a "perfect" r/s using the 89mm crank. (1.75*89=155.75, 155.75-137=18.75)...

I havent torn off a B18 head, but I know on my B20, all the sleeves are the same peice, maybe the B18 they arent, i would assume they were though so I am not sure why it would be better.

this was the one thing i wasnt 100% sure about. But i did a quick search and found that 9/10 people agreed the B20 sleeves were still weaker, even though they had a one-piece construction.

(this one is all guess) off he line it might take longer to spool cuz you have to get to a higher speed before the RPM's are at the point where youd get full boost, but once you are going, when you shift you willl never drop below the rpms you make full boost at, and if you had a quick ratio trans youd be shifting more often not keeping the turbo full spool, so wiht the longer gears you have a longer amoutn of time where you are making the power and it is better? maybe though if you had some setup like hondata and had full throttle shift to where you never let off the gas and let the turbine slow down the shorter gears might be better as long as you can shift pretty quick.

i still dont think that an LS tranny would be better. Even still, the short gear tranny would keep you within the BEST powerband at almost all times. In a 1/4 mile race, the first few seconds are the most important. Getting the turbo spooled is the biggest downfall on turbos IMO. So if you can spool it up, and get it into the nice powerband, you should have trouble maintaining speed when shifting. Depending on what your dyno looked like, you could use the tranny accordingly.

ok, I wasnt saying you could get it perfect with the moved pin, but you could get it closer to perfect than 1.54, as it is in stock form.

and I havent ever had a boosted car but when someone who has one comments on it they always say that the lag is almost nothing to what they were expecting when everyone says that turbo lag is a big pain. Im sure if you have your boost set really high you womnt se full boost for a while, but i am sure it will be spinning as fast as the exhaust gases are flowing pretty dang quickly to prevent any lag. I mean, wouldnt the .5 psi you are seing very soon after flooring it be better than if you had no boost? I personally think so. and another thought, when im at the track, the first second is usually smoking the tires, and while my tires are spinning, the last thing I want is to all the sudden make tons and tons of power.

look i relize this post is very very old but i got a few qs i hope someone says some thing back i have a 1990 crx dx with a b20 block i have je pistons with eagle rods the pistons were to big for the sleeves so i had the block bored 4 thousandths of an inch i put a block gauerd on it then bought a type r head cause i heard it was a crazy setup i bought skunk 2 cams gears titanium retaners and valves the head came with seals thank god because i was seriosly running out of money im just going to get to it how do i wire the vtec head to the non vtec block with the wire harness also what setup for fuel? plan on going turbo soon please reply im despret

ok, i know this is an old ass thread, but this is just to correct most of the things people said here, so no one reads it later on and screws up. The b20b sleeves are the weakest of all the B series, i think around 6-8 psi would prolly be ok on the stock b20b/z sleeves. With the ls sleeves around 12psi is ok, see the differemce? Also if anyone thinks about sleeving for ls or crvtec, dont get the ls over the b20, just because you have to think of it this way, i dont think that boring the b18a/b then sleeving would be cheaper because you have bore then sleeve, with the b20 its already bored, you just have to sleeve. Out of all of the post ive ever read for b18a/b over b20b/z has mentioned that. Everone should sleeve the b20 if boosting over 6psi IMO, some don't but then the motor blows, and they talk shit about the sleeves, so there you go.

Dude, why correct a thread no one will read?

hahahaha... by an off-chance i just came back to this forum to laugh at a few threads

thanks for the laugh guys

well you read it rite?

Can we get a mod to kill this thread? And to smack these 2 upside the head for bringing back an old thread, when they've been here long enough to know better?

automotive forums suck

just because you have to think of it this way, i dont think that boring the b18a/b then sleeving would be cheaper because you have bore then sleeve, with the b20 its already bored, you just have to sleeve.

Just think of it this way.

That made no sense
That was wrong
Don't ever try and give advice or correct anyone ever again

i got a 92 integra with a gsr motor in it and a B20Z2 block all for 800 bucks, the gsr block is locked up so im puting the head on the B20 and puting that in my 92 hatch. how do you make the vtec head work on the B20?

i got a 92 integra with a gsr motor in it and a B20Z2 block all for 800 bucks, the gsr block is locked up so im puting the head on the B20 and puting that in my 92 hatch. how do you make the vtec head work on the B20?

uhh this thread is kinda old so stop posting here...and to make the vtec work you need a ecu that supports vtec and all the wiring for vtec...so basically you cant use a non-vtec ecu if you want vtec...and a gsr head should fit right up to the b20 block its just reliability issues that come in to play once you put a vtec head onto a non-vtec block.