2000 kia sportage help no power

[njadpco]

i have a 2000 kia sportage 2 wheel drive, was running fine until exhaust manifold cracked, i replaced with new one, and then was getting o2 sensor readings, i replaced with new o2 sensor and went to drive it now and lacks power almost dies. no check engine light is on now, but just wont run good. Will start and idle fine. but when i put in gear and go to drive lacks power. and almost just stops wont even pull up my driveway. any ideas?

[LMP]

..I suppose you have double checked all wiring, vacuum hoses, etc, havn't you?
..very frustrating indeed...
DId you let it idle long enough that temperature went to normal..and then, would it act the same ?
What brand of O2 sensor did you get? I know some may be tricky to wire back in, color coding not the same, ...I will verify with other sources.
The knock sensor is the other side...but just in case, if disconnected, it retards timing a lot...
Also check MAF connection....it looks like it does not deliver fuel in proportion to air flow...
The Sportage is well known to act non-sense...and several came with such stories, but never came back to tell how it ended up....if you find out, please tell it here....

Front O2 sensor:

Yellow/white O2 +
Blue O2 - (ground)
Lt green/red - Either heater wire
Red/green - Either heater wire

Rear O2 sensor:

Blue O2 +
Yellow/white O2 - (ground)
Green/blue - Either heater wire
Black/red - Either heater wire

[njadpco]

yes i replaced with bosh 13404 was not a splice type o2 sensor plugged right in , and i have checked for vacuum leaks. where is the knock sensor located i have not checked that (that i know of)

[LMP]

http://www.geocities.com/lmp4203/kia...nocksensor.jpg

[discnik]

When you said you were getting O2 sensor readings do you mean "Check Engine " light codes. And if so were any of them catalytic converter below threshhold codes.

With a cracked exhaust manifold and no power sounds like a catalytic converter problem.

[njadpco]

no was like a code of low voltage to o2, after replacing the o2 i am not getting any codes now. checked the knock sensor and everything looks good there. just no power

[njadpco]

was also wondering if a exhaust leak just past 1st o2 sensor like between the manafold and the 1st catalytic converter would cause lack of power or almost no power dying?

[LMP]

Originally Posted by njadpco

...i did let it idle to get warm and no help, then i also checked the maf and it is fine also checked for vacuum leakes with propane and did not find any there. took timing cover off and timing marks with belt look like it is in time.

to start off with all i done is took the exhaust manifold off and put new one on and all this started. i also checked the catalytic converter to see if it was stoped up causing my problems so i disconnected it temperaly and that did not solve the problem.

also when i did replace the exhaust manifold the only parts i took off the car were the tube for the maf sensor and the heat shield, and disconnected the throttle linkage. put all back the way they were. I just dont know where to go from here.

...about timing belt cover...did you open down to the bottom to see crankshaft mark?...In fact, it is either "on time" or "not"...what is mileage on car...or on timing belt ? but anyway I doubt this to be the issue, not impossible, buy improbable since practically, the "upset" happened while the engine was stopped....
..A recent problem with another car was that a wire was pinched when reassembling clutch bell housing...just pay attention to similar possibility...
..Can you take a photo of the area and make it available...just by chance....
..I suggest you delete the other thread you started (open, edit then delete) ....duplicate threads are misleading for others who might want to help...

[njadpco]

how do i make photo available, i have pics of the timing i have not reassembled it yet, the belt has 130000 miles on it, i thought i would go ahead and replace it also. i will also delete other post. thanks. my email is jdgroh@yahoo.com

[njadpco]

k, i put everything back together today and took it for a test drive, still a little sluggish on takeoffs drove it for about 15 miles then went to stop at a red light and it lost all power. but still running i was doing about 1 mph to get it off the road. then it died. i restarted reved the engine and drove it back home and it did fine. the check engine light came on when it died and was the knock sensor. i also reset computer before driving back home and light did not come back. I also read all sensors with my laptop, i have pics of all the outputs but i dont know how to post them.

[njadpco]

k, new update, sorry i didnt send photos, but figured out the problem, my timming kinda, lol. i took valve cover off and just about everything off the engine thought i would replace all gaskets, etc. and go ahead and replace the timing belt also, got down the the crank shaft pulley and to my supprise it was loose, so i finally got it off and it had a sheared keyway, causing my timing to be off and the oil leaking in the valve cover causing my plugs to misfire. so i have the parts ordered may take a week to get in and maybe week or 2 for me to put it back together. but i will keep everybody updated. thanks again for all the help.

[LMP]

Originally Posted by njadpco

...got down the the crank shaft pulley and to my supprise it was loose, so i finally got it off and it had a sheared keyway...

..so you came with the problem...and the solution! ..great....and in fact, this is the 2nd reported case that I am aware of...so this issue must be part of the check list from now on....
...mmm..photos of your findings would still be welcome, for the record...

[LMP]

Originally Posted by njadpco

....here are pics of where the valve cover was leaking and also pics of the crankshaft pulley where key way was damaged.


also here is a link of a repair i found
http://www.miata.net/garage/hsue/LoctiteCrank1.html
do you think it would work? or would welding be best other than replacing the crank. also there is no part # listed on kia website for keyway would you know the part # for the proper keyway ?

I had success in making and modifying keyways using a Dremmel tool with stacked layers of thin grinding disks. I would lengthen the keyway all the way to the end of crankshaft and use a standard square key of proper size...and give it a try. And why not add loctite...ALways time to go for a crankshaft...
I guess the end bold had loosened with time and caused that havoc....
..edit: I just read the link you provided....so....way to go!
..and the oil invasion around spark plugs is indeed a common problem.

..I have a 2000 also...and I intended to go for the T_belt at 65000 miles, which is this coming summer, and what happened here proves that a thorough inspection/replacement at this recommended interval (as proven by dozens of T_belt incidents reported on forums after that ) is indeed unavoidable....and that comes with idler/tensioner/water pump; kits are available on e-bay at very good price..

[njadpco]

just wanted to update everybody, i found out the reason all this happened the main bolt from lower timing gear to crank had broke and stripped out, i am in the process of welding and fixing the threads on crank. i opted to do this instead of the locktite fix due to the large area to be covered. after i get done welding i may add locktite for added fit. may be a couple more weeks but i will update pics as i continue to repair (been a little under the weather not to mention been cold outside) may get to do some more work this comming weekend. thanks again for everybodys support and help.

[njadpco]

just another update, got it back together today, and runs GREAT! i will be posting pics later. I decided to weld the crank and also jb weld the keyway. i will also be posting step by step on how and what i done. thanks again.