Head Service

torlok2002 · 08-23-2008, 08:14 PM

Well, My water pump failed which caused the timing belt to destroy itself, and in turned trashed the valves.

The timing belt was replaced, but I decided to do the rest myself.

I am now tasked with pulling the head off. I've gotten most of the components off, but The timing belt is killing me.

#1 - The Engine mount bracket. The bolts on this are 4-5" long. I've gotten the front two out, but the third is just to long. How do I get this sucker out???

#2 - The crankshaft damper pulley. Both the manual and several places on the web tell me to use "special tool MB995055 and insert MB995057 or equivalent". Where in the heck do i find something like this? Is it possible to rent, or are they cheap enough to buy? Also it tell me to align the timing marks before removing the belt... How am I supposed to do this? Turning by hand is an impossibility...

Any other advise is greatly appreciated.

nova1313 · 08-24-2008, 01:24 AM

that tool is a pain to find. I ended up building my own. (which you can do) You can build one from drive pins and a a wrench head. It lets you hold the one pully in place to set the tension while you torque the bolt holding the pulley in...

If thats what I think you are talking about...

If not maybe try finding someone who would lend it out.

torlok2002 · 08-25-2008, 01:00 PM

Also, so far i'm trying to rebuild with the block still in the car. Is this the easiest route or should I remove the engine completely. Ive got practically everything on the passngerside of the engine disconnected, but not quite sure what I need to do on the drivers side/transfer case.

I'm borrowing a gear puller from a neighbor sometime soon, but if this does not work, do you have a link to some information on building one?

SilvrEclipse · 08-25-2008, 02:02 PM

What motor is this on? It would be easier to remove the motor from the car and rebuild it but it could be done in the car also. I would highly recomend removing the block.

torlok2002 · 08-25-2008, 02:54 PM

sorry, this is 420A NT. RS model.

torlok2002 · 08-25-2008, 03:01 PM

sorry, this is 420A NT. RS model.

Also, I know I will have to rebuilt the head, but should I rebuild the block while I've got everything out? The Engine has 186k on it. To rebuild the block what am I looking at parts/special tools wise? New piston rings, head gasket, hone,.... ??? What are the chances of piston damage if the timing belt failed?(No compression on an cylinders right now).

Also, as for rebuilding the head, If valves are destroyed/damaged, I will need to replace them right? After replaced they need to be fitted to the head, but how is this done? Everything I'm seeing says to send the head to a machine shop, but is this even possible with a medium size toolset?

I'm looking for the best (cost effective)method to get a decent amount of miles out of the rebuilt engine. No Mod's/performance upgrades in the future, I'm going for all stock.

SilvrEclipse · 08-25-2008, 09:12 PM

Go ahead and pull the block, if there are no gashes on the cylinder walls just have the block honed out. You may have to buy new pistons if yours are damaged. Gaps the rings and have the crank journals polished and use new bearings and gaskets and the bottom end is done.

For the head, buy a new set of valves and take the head and the new valves to a machine shop and have the valve seats regrinded. This will help the new valves seal. Check out your cams and rockers for damange and reuse if fine. Remember to mark them when you remove them so they go back in the same location. Change the timing belt pulleys and tensioner and you will be good to go. Break the new motor in according to the book and your good to go for another 150+k.

Remember to plasti gage the new bearings on the crank and rod bearing journals and check clearences.

torlok2002 · 08-26-2008, 07:19 AM

Great!!! You dont know how much of a help you are. Sometimes it's 1000 times easier to be able to have a direct question answered rather than try to research similar, but not exactly the same questions. I'm going to try to get the engine out this week, however my week may be cut short.

Any estimates on what the machining will cost? Also, what kind of machine shop will do this? My dad was a machinist for 30 years, but never did this kind of work.

SilvrEclipse · 08-26-2008, 08:11 AM

The machine shop charged me about $45 to have my valve seat regrinded. And you could do the honing yourself if you buy the tool. Im sure a shop would do it really cheap so check on both options. Then having the crank polished should be fairly cheap also. I would guess that everything should cost under $100.

torlok2002 · 08-26-2008, 08:51 AM

Great! I thought I was looking at $500 or so.

torlok2002 · 08-27-2008, 09:42 AM

Any Tips on breaking the axel caps? (the big ~27mm nuts) I've got a big (24") breaker bar on there, but I can turn the motor over before it will break. I've tried a bit of penetrating oil and a rubber mallet on the breaker bar, but nothing. Only other thing I can think of is to have someone hold the brakes down (which I did not have last night).

Anyways, as an update the engine is about ready to pull. I've got to get a hoist and hookup before removing the mounts to the tranny. (and get these darn CV axels out....)

SilvrEclipse · 08-27-2008, 02:48 PM

I didn't take those off when I pulled the motor out of mine. Actually I didn't even remove the tires. But an impact wrench would be the easiest way but you could use a breaker bar with someone holding the brakes.

torlok2002 · 08-27-2008, 03:03 PM

Then how to I remove the tranny? Will they just pull out when the engine is lifted? I thought they would be holding the tranny in since they are in both sides of it...

SilvrEclipse · 08-27-2008, 03:30 PM

I left the tranny in the car. I supported it from under the car and removed its all the motor and tranny mounts. Then just pulled them apart and lifted the motor out. Its easier said then done but its not that bad. Once you get the motor out then go ahead and put the tranny mount back in so the tranny is supported. If you pull the axles out the tranny fluid will run out so be prepared for that.

torlok2002 · 09-07-2008, 10:18 PM

Well, I've secured an engine hoist and engine stand. I'm having trouble getting the engine out however. I've got the engine on the hoist and supported that way, but when I loosen all the bolts to the trans axel, I can get about 1" between them but the starter gear will not clear the gap. it also seems like something is connected between them and s holding them together.

Any tips? You said you removed the mounts to the transmission... why? Was this to make some sort of clearance? The manual is not helping too much right now.

The tools are slowly coming together...

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