5.0 build- general ? cam lift and exhaust

[lokiedeathgard07]

alright, well i own a 1985 mustang lx 4cyl carb. i just recently bought a 5.0 from a 87 mercury carpi. i am in school and am slowly learning as i go, this engine is being bored .30 over. and being decked to start. i belive this makes it a (306). also this has a 4 speed AOD tranny, yes iknow its not a t5, and im staying stock rear end (2.73) untill it need to be changed. i am looking for this to stay street drivable, affordable on a students budget, and still be bad ass. i am going to port the stock head, and im pritty comfednt i want to go with either a 600-650 edelbrock carb w/electric choke and performance intake. i am unsure of what would be good for an exhaust, strait piped or possibly magniflow super 40. with _____ headers? any clues. and i am also unsure of what kind of camshaft lift i should be looking at. ive been told mid 500's and another says 480' im leaning to the 480. i need this to be a daily driver, and still be able to leave some nice marks. ANY INPUT HELPS ALOT THANKS!

Robert

[MrPbody]

The term "bad ass" is subjective. In many "circles", no amount of 302 is that (NEVER send a boy to do a MAN'S job...). Among the ricers and other "small block" crowds, 302s are getting more respect than they used to.

In answer to your question, I have questions and suggestions.

Just how much power do you want? It's easier to help when we know the "goals". How high do you want it to rev? How much cash are you willing to "throw" at it?

The 650 Holley is the right "size" for a mild performance 302. Use a 4150 model, NOT a 4160. A "double pumper" may not be necessary, depending on cam and intake/exhaust choice. Nothing wrong with a vacuum-secondary when properly setup.

Edelbrock Performer RPM "Air Gap" is curently the hottest intake for a street small block if EFI is not used. It will make "enough" low-end, but will really work well in the higher revs. 302s aren't known for "big" low-end torque, so it may be prudent to "tune" to it's high-rev capability, the true "strong point" of the small Windsor.

Up to about 6,500, a flat-tappet hydraulic cam can be used with success. Many of our Ford guys like the Comp XE274H. This grind seems to "have a home" in most engine families. If you have E7 heads, this is the cam of choice. A 2,400 RPM stall is required. If you have E6SE heads (cool heads, BTW), I'd drop back one "notch" to XE268H. The E6 heads have a unique chamber that allows for a "faster" burn, creating more cylinder pressure at lower engine speeds. The XE grinds can be problematic if too "close" to the limit of compression for pump gas. If you're at 9.5:1 or higher, "retard" the XE cam 2 degrees on installation. No matter which cam you choose, new valve springs appropriate to the lift and type, are called for.

If your budget can stand it, solid rollers are the ultimate. Factory hydraulic rollers are pretty good, too. Avoid the "retro-fit" hydraulic rollers. Both will allow a little higher revs (hydraulics are still limited by "pump-up"). Solids make the most power. If using solids, use ONLY those with "positive" oiling to the bearings in the wheels. Comp "Endurex" and Crower "HIPPO" are the two I KNOW work. There may be others. Less expensive solid rollers won't "live" in street engines. They're fine in "race" engines.

For exhaust, headers should be "full length". "Shorties" are for ease of installation and bragging rights. They don't "make power". Hooker makes a real nice 1 5/8" tube "Comp" for that car. i would stick with 1 1/2" or 1 5/8". Anything larger will reduce low-end response, a BAD thing. Your pipes should be 2 1/2", no larger. 2 1/4 isn't a BAD idea.

Jim

[Blue)(Fusion]

You need to dump the 2.73s.. You can build up the engine all you want. But if you're sacrificing any low end torque, you're going to be crying while a Hyundai blows past you at a stop light. But they are AWESOME highway gears. Drop the hammer, it drops into 2nd, and it FLIES! I have 3.55s now which are great all around gears for getting off the line and street driving. I'll find out how well they do this season at the track.

Keep the AOD, but do the J-mod to if (I'm pretty sure it's possible on the AOD even though it's developed for use on AODE/4R70W). Tire barking shifts at WOT from an automatic always makes for a nice surprise.

Like stated above, you don't want your exhaust too big. You will lose exhaust gas velocity and will cause you to lose low end torque. 2 1/2" is a good size. For the long tubes, I'm partial to Stainless Works. They have the best quality in headers and exhaust systems I have seen to date. Run some high-flow cats and a muffler of your choice. Remember you do want some backpressure in the exhaust, to help your low end torque. Too much will choke your high end power.

[lokiedeathgard07]

thank u alot. that helps out, i probly will drop the 2.73 after this is built. and some wheel cherp from this aod would be amazing. i still dont know about the cam though, and if u can explain what u think i should do to the tranny? im curious on this lol

[Blue)(Fusion]

The cam I don't know much about. I never worked on a pushrod motor (yet).

But remove the lower 1-2 shift accumulator spring (there's 2), remove the 2-3 shift accumulator spring (there's only 1), and drill holes in certain places on the seperator plate and it shifts like a bat out of hell when you're getting on the go-fast pedal.

See my post titled "J-mod" in the Mustang > Performance section of this forum.

[lokiedeathgard07]

lmao i like

go-fast pedal

xD so ill take a look into that sounds great

[Schaff68]

Not to burst any bubbles, but for a street driven every day driver, that you want good power and gas mileage from and is realiable, just port the exhaust ports of the heads, gasket match them , then clean up the exhaust port bowl in the head, the 87 5.0 heads have more then enough intake port size to them for a street driven car. just the exhaust side is the problem.
Also,on your cam selection. you can go up to a .500 lift cam and still keep most of your stock parts, i also would also look into a Crane Cams or Comp Cams cam,lifter,and rocker kit.
Carb wise, i would run a 650 cfm Edelbrock on a Weiand Stealth intake, you would have power from idle all the way up to 6000 plus rpm.
And change your rear gear ratio, atleast go with 3.55 , if you will spend alot of time on the highway ,if you mostly just run around town and on the highway once in awhile, go with 3.73 gears. a rear gear change is one of the cheapest bang for you buck improvements that you can make to a 3000 pound plus car.