Gauge cluster problems..

[nipsirc]

and this.....

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=285537

[nipsirc]

for the heating problem.....

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=301816

[morrisonnc]

Has anyone found a resolution for the instrument cluster guage problems? We are experiencing the same symptons on a 1998 Town and Country van. Thanks.

[altean]

Originally Posted by privatepilot03

1997 GC 3.3L 110K miles. The gauge cluster goes dead from time to time. I've taken the dash board apart and made sure the connection on the back of the cluster is secure. Where is the body control module on this van, and what tests can I run to ensure that everything is correct? Has anyone has sucess fixing this intermittent problem? When it works, it works great. When it doesn't work, it's an hour of putzing around and finally pounding on the dash to get it all to work again. Seems like a bad connection to me, but don't know where to start looking.

lol..well now..don't bang yer heads for nuttin' hehehe
anyways..get a good electronics person get the cluster out and resolder the connectors and some of the power resistors and look for cracks around the solderpoints and resolder those..thats it..yer problem fixed and yer codes will go away..
chrysler should of used good quality solder like a Kestler instead of a cheap chinese version
the repair should take about an hr total..so go have fun..seeyaz

[strocksr]

Originally Posted by privatepilot03

1997 GC 3.3L 110K miles. The gauge cluster goes dead from time to time. I've taken the dash board apart and made sure the connection on the back of the cluster is secure. Where is the body control module on this van, and what tests can I run to ensure that everything is correct? Has anyone has sucess fixing this intermittent problem? When it works, it works great. When it doesn't work, it's an hour of putzing around and finally pounding on the dash to get it all to work again. Seems like a bad connection to me, but don't know where to start looking.

okay, I dont get on the site real often...but, there was a time when I was haveing problems with my guages on my 93 gcaravan...I racked the brain and went thru several tries with the bcm...probly still have some laying around ...finally I disassembled the dash and guages, on the rear circuit board I found a bad diode..( easy to check) I cant remember the circuit position number....any way I replaced it with a radio shack stock,then I whet ahead and touched up the rest of the solder joints to clear up any "cold" joints . which can cause all kinds of problems ...because the power or signal being tranfered to or from their points are not getting their stable power or signal...some of the problems described in here is most likely that diode...being compleatly bad or defective thus intermittent...I dont know who designed these boards or who assemblyed them but dodge should have a recall on them
the other thing thats hard to trace down is " the bad ground" insure that all grounds are cleaned and secure...guage grounds ...dash grounds...inspect the terminal connection on the wires , the lugs to be sure there not "short Changed " on metal meat ...
hope I helped
Bill

[altean]

Originally Posted by strocksr

okay, I dont get on the site real often...but, there was a time when I was haveing problems with my guages on my 93 gcaravan...I racked the brain and went thru several tries with the bcm...probly still have some laying around ...finally I disassembled the dash and guages, on the rear circuit board I found a bad diode..( easy to check) I cant remember the circuit position number....any way I replaced it with a radio shack stock,then I whet ahead and touched up the rest of the solder joints to clear up any "cold" joints . which can cause all kinds of problems ...because the power or signal being tranfered to or from their points are not getting their stable power or signal...some of the problems described in here is most likely that diode...being compleatly bad or defective thus intermittent...I dont know who designed these boards or who assemblyed them but dodge should have a recall on them
the other thing thats hard to trace down is " the bad ground" insure that all grounds are cleaned and secure...guage grounds ...dash grounds...inspect the terminal connection on the wires , the lugs to be sure there not "short Changed " on metal meat ...
hope I helped
Bill

you are right about those of course..
chrysler has used terrible quality molex connectors,solder and some of the additional parts are subpar..
as being an ee myself I could add that the overall quality of the elctronics is very poor , comparing to the standard what supposed to be in automotive electronics.lot of the intermittent instrument faliures is directly tied to the types of connectors they're using.some of them are lose fit, causing bad connections.looks like this is one of the area they are cutting corners, to save some dough.

addendum.. if you feel adventureous you might want to remove the gauges itself and spray some WD40 on the shaft until they are spin freely. the 2 coils in the gauge is supposed to move the needles up and down , but a lot of cases the grease is so hardened inside the meterbody that it would give you false readings ie..showing hot water when the engine is cold, or intermittent fuel levels ,sometimes half way or empty.
but prolly yer best bet is get some new ones, they are very easy to change and shouldnt cost much. for the most part (as on my 1994 caravan 6 gauge cluster) they are excatly the same and interchangeable.one more thing...make sure , when you remove the needles be very careful by not breaking the metalpins on the meterbody.you should be able to pull them srtaight off.
good luck

[strocksr]

Originally Posted by altean

you are right about those of course..
chrysler has used terrible quality molex connectors,solder and some of the additional parts are subpar..
as being an ee myself I could add that the overall quality of the elctronics is very poor , comparing to the standard what supposed to be in automotive electronics.lot of the intermittent instrument faliures is directly tied to the types of connectors they're using.some of them are lose fit, causing bad connections.looks like this is one of the area they are cutting corners, to save some dough.

addendum.. if you feel adventureous you might want to remove the gauges itself and spray some WD40 on the shaft until they are spin freely. the 2 coils in the gauge is supposed to move the needles up and down , but a lot of cases the grease is so hardened inside the meterbody that it would give you false readings ie..showing hot water when the engine is cold, or intermittent fuel levels ,sometimes half way or empty.
but prolly yer best bet is get some new ones, they are very easy to change and shouldnt cost much. for the most part (as on my 1994 caravan 6 gauge cluster) they are excatly the same and interchangeable.one more thing...make sure , when you remove the needles be very careful by not breaking the metalpins on the meterbody.you should be able to pull them srtaight off.
good luck

I think you might be asking to much for the average guy or gal ...the insides of the guages are delicate any strain or flex could damage the for sure ....I think troubleshooting the grounds and diodes on the back of the guage cluster...theres not many componets...not overwelming...
I personallydont buy the bcm as being at fault on no guage or inermittent guages....fuel guage is different ....when connections are repaired it may still not work...dodge has fuel sender problems too....Ha if my van wasnt so dependable Id crap can it haha
Bill

[altean]

Originally Posted by strocksr

I think you might be asking to much for the average guy or gal ...the insides of the guages are delicate any strain or flex could damage the for sure ....I think troubleshooting the grounds and diodes on the back of the guage cluster...theres not many componets...not overwelming...
I personallydont buy the bcm as being at fault on no guage or inermittent guages....fuel guage is different ....when connections are repaired it may still not work...dodge has fuel sender problems too....Ha if my van wasnt so dependable Id crap can it haha
Bill

well...the problem with mine was more of the cluster, since it caused a total panel faliure with the gauge check light coming on..eversince everything is looks OK for now..lol.
but you cannot be sure about it.
i dont want to sound as a pessimist,but chrysler's plug and play approach in their van building procedures is less than adequate for the most part.
I have ppl whos car or van haven't even hit 50K and having all kinds of electronic problems already...given most makes and models.
since I'm living here in windsor,canada(the automotive capitol of this country)we make most of these minivans here and I have a lot of friends working for the company and most of them drives other makes, mostly japanese or european.that should tel you something about their thrust in their own workforce and company and related policies.
I for one always liked chryslers for their compact and simplistic designs and a very comfortable drive.
on the other hand, their approach to quality solution and its execution of it leaves much to be desired.
I guess you just cannot have the old dogs without fleas ...lol
on the other note...working on the cluster and the meter bodies was intended for the more technically inclined personnel.hopefully, the less inclined person will get some ideas of our contribution to the masses and hopefully they won't get ripped off by some insanity oriented shop or person.
much to be obligated
p.s. a friend of mine(in a local shop)has redone a complete engine work with all new seals all around for $600 canadian.
its a 3.3 automatic. runs smooth as a babies bottom and the guy worth every penny
thnx for your time and good talking

[c_hanau]

After extensive research I am happy to report the solution to the dead gauge cluster and subsequent engine dying. This occurred primarily every week in the summer months because of a dash circuit board's expansion and contraction from the heat and sun.

The instrument cluster's circuit board's connections to the primary cable interface is weak. One can attempt to reflow the joints. Instead, in June I purchased a $80.00 used replacement gauge cluster from an Ebay supplier. With the Hayes manual and about 1 hour of easy work (16 screws) the replacement cluster was operating. I am happy to report no fault reoccurence these past 2 summer months.

Just make sure to disconnect the battery so an airbag will not go off.

Relieved,
C.Hanau

[webbee]

Here's the how to on removing and re-soldering the gauge cluster.

[TJS123]

My 95 Voyager dash is totaly dead not lights or gauges