89 won't hot start

[ljohnson]

I have an 89 with 80000 miles that starts and runs fine. When you turn it off you have to wait for the engine to cool before it will start again. It turns over when it is hot but just won't start. I might mention that it has always run hot when I was in traffic or at an idle. The check engine light comes on right after I get on the road and doesn't go off until I shut the car off. I should have had it serviced when it first came on about 4 years ago but I didn't, so now I have to pay the consequences. Can anyone out there help?

[Schrade]

Originally Posted by ljohnson

I have an 89 with 80000 miles that starts and runs fine. When you turn it off you have to wait for the engine to cool before it will start again. It turns over when it is hot but just won't start. I might mention that it has always run hot when I was in traffic or at an idle. The check engine light comes on right after I get on the road and doesn't go off until I shut the car off. I should have had it serviced when it first came on about 4 years ago but I didn't, so now I have to pay the consequences. Can anyone out there help?

Is your code a 32 code?

If the machine runs good, you might well have vacuum leak. A big vacuum leak will prevent good fuel/air mix, no matter how much pressure you have behind the injectors.

Do you know how to jump the ALDL for codes?

When it does start after a cool-down, how does the exhaust look? Heavy black?

[Schrade]

Originally Posted by ljohnson

I have an 89 with 80000 miles that starts and runs fine. When you turn it off you have to wait for the engine to cool before it will start again. It turns over when it is hot but just won't start. I might mention that it has always run hot when I was in traffic or at an idle. The check engine light comes on right after I get on the road and doesn't go off until I shut the car off. I should have had it serviced when it first came on about 4 years ago but I didn't, so now I have to pay the consequences. Can anyone out there help?

Is your code a 32 code?

If the machine runs good, you might well have vacuum leak. A big vacuum leak will prevent good fuel/air mix, no matter how much pressure you have behind the injectors.

Do you know how to jump the ALDL for codes?

[Catman-'87]

Originally Posted by ljohnson

I have an 89 with 80000 miles that starts and runs fine. When you turn it off you have to wait for the engine to cool before it will start again. It turns over when it is hot but just won't start. I might mention that it has always run hot when I was in traffic or at an idle. The check engine light comes on right after I get on the road and doesn't go off until I shut the car off. I should have had it serviced when it first came on about 4 years ago but I didn't, so now I have to pay the consequences. Can anyone out there help?

I have had this problem with another vehicle and it turned out to be the distributor. The distribution ring in the distributor failed when they were hot and would start after the engine cooled.It took a while to figure this one out.
Also, the coil could be causing the problem. I have had them to give the same symtoms.
The engine running hot at idle or in heavy traffic could be the temp. sensor for the electric fan not kicking the fan on at the correct temp.

[Blue Bowtie]

Another possibility is injector or FPR leakage. Either of those will make the TPI flood and will require protracted cranking to start the engine. If you experience this again, you can remove a plug wire and test for spark as Catman suggests. If the ignition system is operating, try holding the accelerator to the floor (or over 80%) to invoke Clear Flood Mode (where all injector pulses are canceled) during cranking. The lack of injector pulses and the admission of more air during cranking can hep clear out excess fuel and allow the engine to start. Obviously, you'll want to release the pedal as soon as the engine starts, or you might be shopping for a set of valve springs.

[Schrade]

Originally Posted by Blue Bowtie

Another possibility is injector or FPR leakage. Either of those will make the TPI flood and will require protracted cranking to start the engine. If you experience this again, you can remove a plug wire and test for spark as Catman suggests. If the ignition system is operating, try holding the accelerator to the floor (or over 80%) to invoke Clear Flood Mode (where all injector pulses are canceled) during cranking. The lack of injector pulses and the admission of more air during cranking can hep clear out excess fuel and allow the engine to start. Obviously, you'll want to release the pedal as soon as the engine starts, or you might be shopping for a set of valve springs.

For SOME functions, one of them being the fuel pump, the ECM does not activate until after an RPM output signal.

Isn't TPS the same way?


LJohnson, have you checked the oil?