Intake Manifold Replacement Instructions

[Milo2001]

Anybody have a somewhat step by step instructions for replacing the lower intake manifold gasket. I have an external leak showing and before starting this I want to know all the details. What has to be removed, tilting of the engine, etc. Additional parts list beyond the gasket itself. So if you have any hints or problems that you have run into while doing this, we will all be the wiser. Thanks. You can email me at rkdenn@yahoo.com or post them here.

Rob

[94 Jimmy]

First, buy the Haynes Repair Manual #38036 it's invaluable and more than worth the $20 you'll spend.
What year van is it? Mine is a 98, but I think most are the same.
Rotating the engine is easier than it sounds and is required for just about everything other than the water pump and front plugs.
- First, get a length of rope, 1/4" will be fine, (clothline rope is good since it dosen't streach) and a couple small pullies, a single and a double, so you can loop the rope through a couple time to get some mechanical advantage.
- Second, take some pictures(lots of pictures) in case you can't remember where something goes.
- Third remove the two engine stabilizer/mounts from the engine to the front of the engine compartment. Put the parts away, but keep one of the front mounting bolts as an attachment point for the rope.
Next tie one of the pullies to the lifting eye on the engine, then loop the remaining rope through the pullies, pull the rope and the engine will lean forward. Don't be silly, but you can rotate the engine quite a bit, then tie the rope off to the bolt you replaced on the cross member in the front of the engine compartment.
I don't remember all of the wires, hoses etc. you have to take off, I was doing a head gasket, so I went a lot deeper than you'll have to, but there are no identical plugs so nothing should get miswired, but use masking tape and mark everything. You will have to remove the fuel rail the book recomments replacing the o rings at each injector, mine looked good so I reused them. Use care not to get any dirt into the injectors or fuel rail, these are expensive parts and not repairable.
While your at it, think about replacing at least the rear plugs and O2 sensor since you'll have to go through this again to get at those. It's a little more work than just the intake maniford, but it will have to be done by 100K Mi or sooner for the oxygen sensor.
As I said, first get the book and read through it, then let us know what you still don't understand. Take your time, be careful and save lots of money. When your done drive yourself out for a nice dinner, you deserve it.
94

[Milo2001]

Thanks for the info. My uncle just did his Pont Montana and to rotate the engine he said just to remove the "dog bones" on top oif the engine, put in park and push car forward. He also said get the Haynes book, a 12-pack, and plan for 2 days. I already went to the dealer and they said "out of warranty, can't help you. Next person in line please." I priced the parts and it came out ot about +/- $125 just for the gaskets. Add spark plugs wires and O2 sensor (thanks, I didn't think of that one), antifreeze, thermostat and Rad cap. It's just stating to weep at the seals now, oil looks good and antifreeze level is holding. I'm putting in some rad sealer to get me to atleast 60 degree weather which should be about early April. I had 1980 Olds Cutlass that ate a manifold gasket every three years, problem is they can't do away with electrolysis when you combine an iron head/block, stainless steel gasket and an aluminum manifold. After I'm done I'll post my experience.