Alternator belt tension

[hot_sd]

Recently replaced all the belts including timing belt. But, I cannot figure out how to correctly tension the belt for the alternator/water pump (this is the 1.3L engine). I simply pushed the alternator back as far as possible and tightened the upper and lower bolts to the correct torque. The problem is that the belt is fine for a while and then starts squealing in the morning briefly. When I initially installed it, it was fine for about a day and then squealed loudly. I had to retension as it seemed to have become looser. Since then I've to retension it twice once after about 3 days and now again after about 1 week.

Is there an adjustment bolt used to set the tension that I've missed. Don't see any mention of it in the instructions.

[hodunwun]

Let me know if you get an answer to this one. I have the same symtoms on a 93 one litre engine. I think this is an engineering problem.
Only usually happens at start up. I am not bothered with it anymore.
YOu can try sanding down the 'v' portions of the belt for the circumference so the belt does not bottom out in the bottom of the pully 'v's. Franky, I think the engineers should have made the belt wider to avoid slippage. Again, let me know if you get a good answer.
Doug at hodunwun@comcast.net

[hot_sd]

Yes, if I get an answer to this one I'll let you know. The old belt never made any noises. Having said that many cars have tension adjustment mechanisms. On this I just cannot see anything. Based on the "thumb pressure/deflection" test suggested by the factory service manual I cannot see you one can accurately set tension by just "pushing" the alternator. Maybe the belt is still stretching and maybe one day it may stop. Or like I said maybe I missed something obvious. The belt feels too slack to me but I cannot figure out how to tighten it anymore than what it is.

[crazyinkc]

I have had the same problem with the cheaper belts. Try adjusting it a bit tighter. Use a Dayco or Gates belt. The cheap one I had was a Kelly Sprinfield belt and it stretched like crazy.

[hot_sd]

All the replacement belts were Dayco.

[crazyinkc]

The Daycos should be good. I run my tension to where you can twist the belt 90 deg between the water pump and crank (it should feel real tight at 90 deg and have a bounce when flat). This seems to be the best for me and I have not lost a water pump or alternator bearing yet.

[hot_sd]

How do you tension the belt. Do you just push the alternator or is there an adjustment bolt or screw to set tension. I cannot see anything.

[crazyinkc]

Loosen the 3 bolts holding the alternator (1 top, 2 bottom) then useing a small prybar or large screwdriver, pry on the case of the alternator between it and the water pump untill you get the proper tension. Hold tension and tighten the top bolt then check tension as I described. If it checks good tighten the 2 lower bolts.

[hot_sd]

OK - thanks. I will try that technique.

[hot_sd]

OK so the technique suggested worked great. My extra long prybar between the alternator and WP was able to give me the correct tension. I think the tension was way too low before leading to this problem. Not sure why I did not think of trying this myself.

Thanks for the tip.

[crazyinkc]

Glad to help.

[geojimslim]

I have this same exact problem.'96 Metro with a 4cyl.
I have an oil leak on the front crankshaft oil seal.
If this is the case on your vehicle, you will always have the sqealing problem when the engine fires up for the first two minutes or so until the oil works its way off the pulleys.
New belts work fine for a couple of weeks, but the slippage will start up again if there is oil present.
I want to change the seal, but the crankshaft pulley bolt they use is on so tight that I cannot get it off.
I have worked on all kinds of vehicles in my life, but this bolt is the most difficult to get off.
I am literally bending 1/2" breaker bars using an impact 17MM socket.
I am going to try a 3/4" breaker bar and socket.
I hope I don't damage this thing.
I love this car!
And yes, I am trying to turn the bolt counter clockwise to remove.
They must glue the bolt at the factory!

[crazyinkc]

Some have Loc-tite on the threads. I have used a propane torch to get the bolt head hot, then zap it off with an impact or use the old breaker bar and starter trick. You will need to replace the crank seal after the heat but you already know that.

[geojimslim]

Thanks for the help crazyinkc!

Is there any particular impact tool that works well.
I have an air compressor.
Or could I use the impact tool that you hit with a small sledge?

[crazyinkc]

I use a 1/2" Husky and give it hell. I usually do not have a problem but I did run into a Tracker that put up a good fight and I used my dads 3/4" impact that was rated @ 500ft/lbs. It gave up quick .