95 Grand Am starting problems

TJLock · 06-28-2013, 03:37 PM

Ok, I got a 95 Grand Am that is starting to get the best of me. Won't start. Wife took it to gas station last week and it went fine. She shut it off, went in and got what she needed, came out and started it. She started backing out and it died and wouldn't start again.

Since it has been home we determined that it isn't getting a spark. New Spark plug wires. Battery is 3 months old, but loses power while we been trying to start it. Had to charge it 2 times now. Crankshaft Sensor/Speed sensor was changed. Ignition Module was taken in and tested and passed. I did go ahead and put a new coil pack on. According to what O'Rielly's told me, I have it on the pack that fires first (plug 1).

Still no go. Should I change out the other 2 packs or should I swap the new one out with the other 2 and see if I get some luck? Is there anything else that I am not doing that could be leading up to my problems?

1 other thing that I do know, is that water has been coming in the back door due to a bad weatherstrip or whatever. The door locks no longer work possibly due to being wet. That wouldn't of triggered anything in the car to keep it from starting would it?

Thanks in advance.
Tim

jdl · 06-28-2013, 05:03 PM

You may have more than one crank sensor. The hall sensor is three wires and is probably located by the crankshaft pulley, sends signal straight to pcm. The other sensor is two wires, purple and yellow. Sends signal to ignition module. Usually located on back side of engine block, down low.

Also,You can check voltage and ground at the ignition module with the key on. Pink wire is voltage and black wire is ground.

TJLock · 06-28-2013, 07:36 PM

I changed out the one on the block between the oil pan and exhaust manifold. Had the 2 wires on it. Was hoping there was only one, but wondering if there was 2. Heard that one was a pain some times. I got a light test today and I do know that the ignition control module doesn't light. Not sure on the path to check to see where it runs through. Pretty new on working on cars and I think it is showing. LOL.

Tech II · 06-28-2013, 08:48 PM

2.3, 3.3, or 3.1?

TJLock · 06-29-2013, 08:35 AM

3.1

Tech II · 06-29-2013, 09:59 AM

Since it has been home we determined that it isn't getting a spark. New Spark plug wires. Battery is 3 months old, but loses power while we been trying to start it. Had to charge it 2 times now. Crankshaft Sensor/Speed sensor was changed. Ignition Module was taken in and tested and passed. I did go ahead and put a new coil pack on. According to what O'Rielly's told me, I have it on the pack that fires first (plug 1).

OK, so you have no spark.....did you test this with a spark tester on the end of an ignition wire? Do you have spark from any of the coils?

Still no go. Should I change out the other 2 packs or should I swap the new one out with the other 2 and see if I get some luck? Is there anything else that I am not doing that could be leading up to my problems?

If you are getting no spark at all, there is no way all three coils went at the same time.....

1 other thing that I do know, is that water has been coming in the back door due to a bad weatherstrip or whatever. The door locks no longer work possibly due to being wet. That wouldn't of triggered anything in the car to keep it from starting would it?

No, that would not have anything to do with it....

If you have no spark at all, it comes down to the crank sensor, the ICM, or the wiring in between.....

The vehicle has two crank sensors....the one you replaced in the rear of the block is the one that is necessary for initial spark....the one behind the harmonic balancer, is used for higher rpms after the vehicle is started....if for some reason it goes bad, the PCM would use the other crank sensor to continue running....

Now, if the crank sensor in the back of the block is bad, the car will not start....but you have replaced this....I am assuming that that new sensor is ok(yeah, I know about assuming)......so the next thing to check is the circuit between the sensor and the ICM.....are the connectors in the harness ends clean and tight? Do an Ohm check on on each circuit as you flex the line.....if ok, then the problem is the ICM, or power and ground to it.....

The two wire harness on the passenger side is your power and ground.....attach a test light to the pos and neg battery cables...note how bright it is......now disconnect the two wire harness on the passenger side of the ICM and attach your test light......turn key to on(don't crank).......does that test light come on as bright as it was on the battery? If yes, you need an ICM....

TJLock · 07-01-2013, 03:32 AM

I'll check that when I get home from work today. I sure am hoping that this helps get me somewhere. I'll post feedback when I am able to check it.

rkvons · 07-02-2013, 12:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tech II

Now, if the crank sensor in the back of the block is bad, the car will not start....but you have replaced this....I am assuming that that new sensor is ok(yeah, I know about assuming)......so the next thing to check is the circuit between the sensor and the ICM.....are the connectors in the harness ends clean and tight? Do an Ohm check on on each circuit as you flex the line.....if ok, then the problem is the ICM, or power and ground to it.....

Also, the 2-wire cable that connects the sensor to the ICM might have some of its insulation melted off if it has touched an exhaust manifold and may be shorting out on the exhaust.

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