madza tribute brake change

[shadow135]

Hello
Can anyone give me information on how to change the brakes on a madza tributr 2001

[TomV]

Originally Posted by shadow135

Hello
Can anyone give me information on how to change the brakes on a madza tributr 2001

What in particular do you want to know? There is a Haynes manual for this vehicle on ebay if you cannot find one locally. I always recommend this for any work on a vehicle.

I have replaced the pads and rotors on my 2002 and did not find any unusual things about the task. I did need to use a large wheel puller to get the rotors off.

[AlohaBra]

Originally Posted by shadow135

Hello
Can anyone give me information on how to change the brakes on a madza tributr 2001

HI

This starts off as a basic disc brake repair:
Take off wheels....
An allen (or torx) socket is need to remove calipers

Either remove brake fluid from reservor or open brake caliper nipple to bleed from there. Otherwise fluid will overflow and make a big mess or the brake fluid will eat you paint.

Recommend bleed after you are done anyway. Changing brake fluid is recommended to remove absorbed moisture (H2O) from the atmoshere and any contamination. I used to work in dealerships. In some places like Hawaii salt air will corrode brake hydraulic parts internally.
Brake fluid should be clear or light colored at all four wheel when done....cost a little more but .....mo betta.

Hang your brake caliper up so the hose does not get stretched...I stick it up on the backing plate.

Did not need a puller for my rotors....rust happens...i replaced with new ones.... recommended, not expensive and will ELIMINATE SQUEAL.

64k miles... have done them twice, one set of rotors. Anyway to get the rotors off....soak with WD-40 (where the rotor seats at the hub) and use large hammer (sledge or dead blow).to tap them off (pry bar works too)...if you are replacing them anyway.....otherwise don't take them off.


Compress caliper piston with c-clamp or large channel lock pliers. I use a disk brake squeal compound (basically like Elmer's glue except it is blue and you buy it at the auto parts store), especially if you don't put on new rotors. I lube where the brake pad slides on the caliper bracket with an anti-seize compound. I torque everything with a torque wrench including wheel lug nuts (twice to make sure).

[TomV]

AlohaBra:

I understand your statement about the brake fluid absorbing moisture when the system is opened up. Do you know if synthetic fluids have the same properties or are they less susceptable to the moisture absorbtion?

Thanks,
TomV

[AlohaBra]

Originally Posted by TomV

AlohaBra:

I understand your statement about the brake fluid absorbing moisture when the system is opened up. Do you know if synthetic fluids have the same properties or are they less susceptable to the moisture absorbtion?

Thanks,
TomV

Yeah, synthetic is good and is used in aircraft....
but it is a hassle and expensive to change over....and should not be mixed with regular fluid.
DOT3 is readily available and won't confuse the next guy working on the car. Just change it every 60K. Open the right rear brake line and keep adding fluid until it comes out clean. Our you can suck some out of the master before you start with a turkey baster...that is what I do. Then I have someone else pump while I observer the RH-rear brake cylinder for fluid color.