2000 Silverado Driver Window Quit.

[fabrikator]

I've good news and bad.

The good- found the page and the pics!

The bad- FTP program took a dump on me.

I'll try to sort things out here (I need FPT anyway) and try to get that thing posted. If you're feeling ambitious and want to have it sooner, I can e-mail it to you. (HTML file with pictures- about 4kb)

$60 sounds like a great deal. I'd hold off on the WD, if you were serious. Sometimes that can wash away the grease that's already there. I found a blob inside the door when I was taking things apart and used that. It was a fairly light weight water repellant grease. Only a small amount is needed.

-fabrikator

[davispgc]

Originally Posted by fabrikator

Have a '99 Z-71 x-cab with this problem on the drivers side. Had the dealer order the motor for me, they sold it to me at "cost" which was $61.

After seeing that many are having this problem, I'd like to offer my experience. If any of you would like pictures of my work, let me know and I'll upload them to a website for all to view.

The door panel needs to have the door lock cover, courtesy light, door handle cover, mirror cover and power window/mirror plate removed along with any electrical attachments they have. These are all held in with snap brackets/plastic tabs of similar type and can be popped out with a screw driver and some care. There is one screw by the door handle, one behind the power window/mirror plate and one on the very bottom of the door panel. When all removed the door panel can then be removed by lifiting up on the entire panel.

Three of the motor's screws (8mm) are blind so you'll need a small ratchet set for this job since you'll be inside the door taking the screws out. There is one more facing you (used a 3/8" socket), for a total of four screws to remove.

After removing the screws, you will need to seperate the cog on the motor unit from the cable/pully assembly. Be careful not to let the cable/pully pop out of it's housing when you seperate it from the motor unit, it's lightly spring loaded.

If you make it this far, the rest is easy. Be sure on reassembly that the plastic cable/pully bracket is behind the metal power window mount and that the motor unit is on the front side.

I used some Fel-Pro anti-sieze on the rails of the track while in there. I also noticed some light corrosion on mine between the metal motor and the plastic assembly it's screwed to.

Please send me pictures. Thanks
Bill Davis

davisbillpam@aol.com
Thanks

[postul8or]

Not kidding...my dad's Silverado windows crapped out after he rolled it down to punch in his car wash code and then it wouldn't roll back up!

Needless to say, he held the brakes to the floor. After backing out of the cashwash (a guy came out and turned off the car wash for a second) the window started working again.

I believe at one point it did become more tempermental so the dealership fixed the problem. Unsure if warranty covered it or not, I would guess not as usually these small nit picky yet expensive items are usually not covered.

Overall I'm still disappointed in GM electrical, I can remember every GM my dad has ever owned has had electrical issues. My favorite was the windshield wiper fluid that would pump itself dry in either humid or cold weather due to a flawed design in the circuitboard.

[JaVeRo]

One problem I found on a 2001 Suburban was the guides were hanging on the rail at the top. I cut two pieces of plastic about the same size as 1/4" keystock and placed one in each of the grooves that hold the bottom of the glass. This way the guides would stop 1/4" lower when the window was all the way up and that was enough to keep the guides from hanging at the top of the rail. The window still works at 224k miles.

James

[MrPlainTruth]

The solution to your problem may be simple. If the driver side front window is not working check the driver side rear window. If that is also not working unplug the rear window switch. If your front window begins working the rear window switch is bad. I AM SURPRISED NO ONE ON THIS FORUM TOOK THE TIME TO TELL YOU THEY ARE INTERCONNECTED.

[777stickman]

Originally Posted by MrPlainTruth

The solution to your problem may be simple. If the driver side front window is not working check the driver side rear window. If that is also not working unplug the rear window switch. If your front window begins working the rear window switch is bad. I AM SURPRISED NO ONE ON THIS FORUM TOOK THE TIME TO TELL YOU THEY ARE INTERCONNECTED.

Welcome to A/F & thank you for this great info.

Question is? Where were you 10-12 years ago when this thread was active and your info would have been more useful??

[j cAT]

Originally Posted by MrPlainTruth

The solution to your problem may be simple. If the driver side front window is not working check the driver side rear window. If that is also not working unplug the rear window switch. If your front window begins working the rear window switch is bad. I AM SURPRISED NO ONE ON THIS FORUM TOOK THE TIME TO TELL YOU THEY ARE INTERCONNECTED.

YA! this is very old stuff. NO ONE has any questions about this anymore. this is because all the factory window regulators have been replaced . GM had defective motors and cables that rusted out. on the window switches not something that happens , well made unless you leave the windows open and rain/snow enters into them . so not all that common on these old 2000 vehicles. new GM trucks they have switch problems , not a 2000 model.