Search | Car Forums | Gallery | Articles | Helper | AF 350Z | IgorSushko.com | Corporate |
| Latest | 0 Rplys |
|
Members Projects Discussion of the AF 2G DSM Project Car |
Show Printable Version | Email this Page | Subscribe to this Thread |
|
Thread Tools |
03-05-2010, 12:11 AM | #31 | |
AF Enthusiast
Thread starter
|
Re: Junkies 97 RS Rebuild(1st timer!)
When I took my car to have the oil changed once they told me my oil filter housing was loose, but not leaking. Here in the pictures, I demonstrate how it can move back and forth. There's a nut inside it where the oil filter screws on, and it was loose when I got the oil filter off...can anybody tell me whats going on here? Is it supposed to do that? do I just need to torque it on really hard or what? I slammed the oil filter once when I hit a pothole, causing the oil filter to rupture. Could this have damaged this filter housing? How could I fix it?
__________________
Hahn stage IV S16G-Portfueler w/400cc inj-1:1 Aeromotive FPR-Split sec fuel controller-Walbro 255lph FP-240cc inj-Hahn fuel mapper-JE pistons(8.1:1)-Total Seal rings-Eagle rods-ARP studs-AEM filter-C&R radiator-Hahn 3''downpipe & cat-Thermal Eng. 3''catback-LUK clutch & flywheel-Eibach springs-Eibach offset bushings-KYB GR2 struts-Strut bars-Lower rear tie bar-GReddy boost controller-Apexi T timer-Powerslot rotors-Gloshift gauges |
|
03-05-2010, 08:13 AM | #32 | |
Dave is THAT guy
|
Re: Junkies 97 RS Rebuild(1st timer!)
That's an aftermarket oil sandwich adapter. I hate those, like passionate about hating those. That nut needs to be tightened good. Is the O-ring in the adapter still there and good?
__________________
2013 Chevy Sonic 1LZ Daily Driver, 1.4L Turbo, 6spd 75 Monte Carlo SBC 400 6.6L, Aluminum heads, Hurricane Intake... 12 Chevy Sonic 1LZ 1.8L - Traded 01 Pontiac Grand Am SE - RIP 95 Eagle Talon ESi-T 5spd - RIP 88 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera- RIP |
|
03-05-2010, 11:39 AM | #33 | |
Holset powered 420a
|
Re: Junkies 97 RS Rebuild(1st timer!)
Yea tighten the hell out of it and i always put some silicon on the oring to help keep it from leaking
__________________
98 Eclipse GS Turbo Megasquirt 2 - Holset HY35 Turbo - Built motor - P&P Head and Intake - 3" Turbo back - FMIC - Greddy RZ BOV - Walbro 255 - Aeromotive AFPR - 650cc Injectors - Fidanza Flywheel - Zoom clutch - 13" Cobra Front Brakes - AEM WB - Devilsown meth injection - 3.55 Final Drive gear ratio 1981 Chevy Scottsdale 1987 Nissan 300zx - Chump Car 2001 BMW 325i - DD |
|
03-05-2010, 12:48 PM | #34 | |
AF Enthusiast
Thread starter
|
Re: Junkies 97 RS Rebuild(1st timer!)
Yeah I don't like it very much either, seems like nothing but problems with it so far. I'll check on the o ring. So, that link I posted witht he pulleys, timing belt, and pump, is that safe to buy?
__________________
Hahn stage IV S16G-Portfueler w/400cc inj-1:1 Aeromotive FPR-Split sec fuel controller-Walbro 255lph FP-240cc inj-Hahn fuel mapper-JE pistons(8.1:1)-Total Seal rings-Eagle rods-ARP studs-AEM filter-C&R radiator-Hahn 3''downpipe & cat-Thermal Eng. 3''catback-LUK clutch & flywheel-Eibach springs-Eibach offset bushings-KYB GR2 struts-Strut bars-Lower rear tie bar-GReddy boost controller-Apexi T timer-Powerslot rotors-Gloshift gauges |
|
03-05-2010, 01:08 PM | #35 | |
Dave is THAT guy
|
Re: Junkies 97 RS Rebuild(1st timer!)
I have problems with timing belts not being from the dealership, but it's your call. Seems ok, says they use name brands.
For the sandwich is that the feed/return for the turbo or an oil cooler?
__________________
2013 Chevy Sonic 1LZ Daily Driver, 1.4L Turbo, 6spd 75 Monte Carlo SBC 400 6.6L, Aluminum heads, Hurricane Intake... 12 Chevy Sonic 1LZ 1.8L - Traded 01 Pontiac Grand Am SE - RIP 95 Eagle Talon ESi-T 5spd - RIP 88 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera- RIP |
|
03-05-2010, 08:30 PM | #36 | |
AF Enthusiast
Thread starter
|
Re: Junkies 97 RS Rebuild(1st timer!)
Oil cooler feed and return.
__________________
Hahn stage IV S16G-Portfueler w/400cc inj-1:1 Aeromotive FPR-Split sec fuel controller-Walbro 255lph FP-240cc inj-Hahn fuel mapper-JE pistons(8.1:1)-Total Seal rings-Eagle rods-ARP studs-AEM filter-C&R radiator-Hahn 3''downpipe & cat-Thermal Eng. 3''catback-LUK clutch & flywheel-Eibach springs-Eibach offset bushings-KYB GR2 struts-Strut bars-Lower rear tie bar-GReddy boost controller-Apexi T timer-Powerslot rotors-Gloshift gauges |
|
03-05-2010, 09:46 PM | #37 |
AF Enthusiast
Thread starter
|
Re: Junkies 97 RS Rebuild(1st timer!)
__________________
Hahn stage IV S16G-Portfueler w/400cc inj-1:1 Aeromotive FPR-Split sec fuel controller-Walbro 255lph FP-240cc inj-Hahn fuel mapper-JE pistons(8.1:1)-Total Seal rings-Eagle rods-ARP studs-AEM filter-C&R radiator-Hahn 3''downpipe & cat-Thermal Eng. 3''catback-LUK clutch & flywheel-Eibach springs-Eibach offset bushings-KYB GR2 struts-Strut bars-Lower rear tie bar-GReddy boost controller-Apexi T timer-Powerslot rotors-Gloshift gauges |
03-05-2010, 10:10 PM | #38 | |
AF Enthusiast
Thread starter
|
Re: Junkies 97 RS Rebuild(1st timer!)
Ok, if im going to remove the head fromt he block, then I need to remove the camshaft correct? Or what do I do first...and do I need to mark the cam sprockets at the top center? I cant seem to find anything about this in the manual...
__________________
Hahn stage IV S16G-Portfueler w/400cc inj-1:1 Aeromotive FPR-Split sec fuel controller-Walbro 255lph FP-240cc inj-Hahn fuel mapper-JE pistons(8.1:1)-Total Seal rings-Eagle rods-ARP studs-AEM filter-C&R radiator-Hahn 3''downpipe & cat-Thermal Eng. 3''catback-LUK clutch & flywheel-Eibach springs-Eibach offset bushings-KYB GR2 struts-Strut bars-Lower rear tie bar-GReddy boost controller-Apexi T timer-Powerslot rotors-Gloshift gauges |
|
03-05-2010, 11:20 PM | #39 | |
AF Enthusiast
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Fairmont, North Carolina
Posts: 2,551
Thanks: 2
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
|
Re: Junkies 97 RS Rebuild(1st timer!)
No, you don't need to remove the cam....and no the cam gears should be marked.
__________________
Caleb vanilla gorilla '99 Spyder 2.4 5-speed - Red/black,14b,slow '96 Eclipse GST 5-speed - Paint www.myspace.com/ballsoutperformance |
|
03-06-2010, 12:31 AM | #40 | |
AF Enthusiast
Thread starter
|
Re: Junkies 97 RS Rebuild(1st timer!)
Ok, couple questions.
1)If im going to be taking the head and block completely apart, do I need to mark anything on the cam gears or anything like that? 2)I ran into a problem trying to get the timing belt off(and cam gears, and that plastic cover that covers the cam gears), do I have to pull the crank pulley off first? And if so, do I need to get a special tool to do it? 3)Does that plastic cover need to go back on? I just see where some people leave them off...
__________________
Hahn stage IV S16G-Portfueler w/400cc inj-1:1 Aeromotive FPR-Split sec fuel controller-Walbro 255lph FP-240cc inj-Hahn fuel mapper-JE pistons(8.1:1)-Total Seal rings-Eagle rods-ARP studs-AEM filter-C&R radiator-Hahn 3''downpipe & cat-Thermal Eng. 3''catback-LUK clutch & flywheel-Eibach springs-Eibach offset bushings-KYB GR2 struts-Strut bars-Lower rear tie bar-GReddy boost controller-Apexi T timer-Powerslot rotors-Gloshift gauges |
|
03-06-2010, 09:17 AM | #41 | |
Dave is THAT guy
|
Re: Junkies 97 RS Rebuild(1st timer!)
It's easier to take the head off with no cams installed. Easier to get to the head bolts and don't need and angled heads or anything
Cam gears are already marked. Only fit on the cams 1 way. Crank pulley has to come off first. The plastic cover has numerous hidden bolts all over. The pulley will need a special tool. You can always cut the TB since you're not reusing it anyways. You don't need to put the cover back on, but I would recommend it (even though mine is off). I'm designing a custom metal lower cover for mine. Just think, 1 rock can get in the timing belt by the crank sprocket and screw up your timing/motor.
__________________
2013 Chevy Sonic 1LZ Daily Driver, 1.4L Turbo, 6spd 75 Monte Carlo SBC 400 6.6L, Aluminum heads, Hurricane Intake... 12 Chevy Sonic 1LZ 1.8L - Traded 01 Pontiac Grand Am SE - RIP 95 Eagle Talon ESi-T 5spd - RIP 88 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera- RIP |
|
03-06-2010, 12:28 PM | #42 | |
AF Enthusiast
Thread starter
|
Re: Junkies 97 RS Rebuild(1st timer!)
Ok, which special tool do I need, is it the 3 jaw puller?
__________________
Hahn stage IV S16G-Portfueler w/400cc inj-1:1 Aeromotive FPR-Split sec fuel controller-Walbro 255lph FP-240cc inj-Hahn fuel mapper-JE pistons(8.1:1)-Total Seal rings-Eagle rods-ARP studs-AEM filter-C&R radiator-Hahn 3''downpipe & cat-Thermal Eng. 3''catback-LUK clutch & flywheel-Eibach springs-Eibach offset bushings-KYB GR2 struts-Strut bars-Lower rear tie bar-GReddy boost controller-Apexi T timer-Powerslot rotors-Gloshift gauges |
|
03-06-2010, 03:29 PM | #43 | |
AF Enthusiast
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Fairmont, North Carolina
Posts: 2,551
Thanks: 2
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
|
Re: Junkies 97 RS Rebuild(1st timer!)
I have never worked on a 420a but you shouldnt need any type of puller. Just take the bolt(s) out and yank on it.
__________________
Caleb vanilla gorilla '99 Spyder 2.4 5-speed - Red/black,14b,slow '96 Eclipse GST 5-speed - Paint www.myspace.com/ballsoutperformance |
|
03-06-2010, 03:51 PM | #44 | |
Dave is THAT guy
|
Re: Junkies 97 RS Rebuild(1st timer!)
I used a crowbar on the first pulley, but destroyed the plastic covering. There's a special tool you should use to pull it. It's a 3-jaw puller. Dont have the part number handy right now.
__________________
2013 Chevy Sonic 1LZ Daily Driver, 1.4L Turbo, 6spd 75 Monte Carlo SBC 400 6.6L, Aluminum heads, Hurricane Intake... 12 Chevy Sonic 1LZ 1.8L - Traded 01 Pontiac Grand Am SE - RIP 95 Eagle Talon ESi-T 5spd - RIP 88 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera- RIP |
|
03-06-2010, 08:07 PM | #45 | |
AF Enthusiast
Thread starter
|
Re: Junkies 97 RS Rebuild(1st timer!)
Ok, I bought a puller, Which then made me wonder how im supposed to get the pulley back on...
Also, Im reading and reading...and can't seem to figure out what im looking for lol. Im just thoroughly confused about something. If I take the cams out(with the cam gears attached) and then proceed to take the head off, and then finally the internals out, when I go to put it all back together, do I just put the internals back together, put the head back on, and just lay the cams right into place? Or is there something i'm missing...like Im confused about the placement of the pistons and everything when I go to put the cams back in...and its making me nervous lol
__________________
Hahn stage IV S16G-Portfueler w/400cc inj-1:1 Aeromotive FPR-Split sec fuel controller-Walbro 255lph FP-240cc inj-Hahn fuel mapper-JE pistons(8.1:1)-Total Seal rings-Eagle rods-ARP studs-AEM filter-C&R radiator-Hahn 3''downpipe & cat-Thermal Eng. 3''catback-LUK clutch & flywheel-Eibach springs-Eibach offset bushings-KYB GR2 struts-Strut bars-Lower rear tie bar-GReddy boost controller-Apexi T timer-Powerslot rotors-Gloshift gauges |
|
|
POST REPLY TO THIS THREAD |
|
|