Lifted my X (with pics and tips)!

[brad77]

I installed a Calmini 3" lift about three weeks ago. It was a self install with a couple friends, and it took us all weekend. Most of the time was spent on a single problem (more on that later). We are not all that mechanically inclined, but it wasn't too bad (with your help, of course). I figured I'd post my experience here, since it may help someone else with their DIY.

First off, make sure that you have the right tools before you start! I ended up having to make about four trips between Home Depot and Pep Boys all told. I used:

- 3 ton hydraulic jack
- small hydraulic jack
- 4 jackstands
- torque wrench
- set of metric closed end wrenches
- 7/8" closed end wrench
- metric sockets, 7/8" socket and ratchet
- rubber hammer
- BFH
- liquid wrench
- propane torch
- pickle forks

Most everything else has been covered in other posts, but here are some things I ran into:

The rear-end is pretty easy work. Getting the spring pack back into the shackles was a pain, and I ended up using a small hydraulic jack between the spring pack and the frame to get it into place. Without the jack, it would've been much harder.

The front-end ended up taking a lot of time. The torsion bars came off relatively easy. I had to use the rubber hammer on the rear anchor (the one that the long adjuster bolt runs through) to free the old bars from the frame.

The most difficult part of the install was most definitely the removal of the upper control arms. The anchor bolt that goes into the knuckle spindle (the part that the brake assembly is attached to...forgive my terminology) wouldn't budge. We rented a set of "pickle forks" from Pep Boys, and after a few hours of hammering, we headed back there for a propane torch. Heating up the spindle for about 5-10 minutes on each side, along with more whacking on the smallest pickle fork with the BFH was enough to break it free. I'd recommend threading the bolt back on the anchor just a bit to keep the control arm from taking flight once it comes free.

Now after an alignment and about 300 miles, I'm about to re-tension all of the bolts. That said, I have a few questions:

- I noticed that the front Calmini shocks bottom out (are fully compressed) before the lower control arm hits the bump stop. That seems bad. Is it? Am I going to break my shocks?

- After driving on the lift, my front end has started to sag slightly, giving it a bit of a raked look. I would think that that's due to the torsion bars "packing out." Am I crazy?

- Just yesterday, I noticed a pronounced thunking sound from what I think is the upper control arm on the drivers' side when the suspension is compressed. It doesn't happen all the time, but enough to make me nervous. My thinking is that I didn't grease the bushings enough where the UAC connects to the frame. What do you think? Should I do this?

Thanks everyone. You've been a great help. Thanks also go out to Nate and Eric for some tools and lots of labor. I couldn't have done this without them.

Here are some of the resources I used:

Calmini Lift Install
Ball joint removal questions (XOC)
AAL install this weekend! (XOC)





Full size pics can be found here:

Pic 1
Pic 2
Pic 3
Pic 4
Pic 5
Pic 6
Pic 7

Brad

[ADAMX]

Just curious, what size tires you got under there?

[chubbybubba1]

I can tell you that the upper control arm bushings make a hell of a racket after a year. Maybe in a dry climate like Cali you'll go longer. Here in Colorado with our winters the bushings need removed and cleaned and greased up every 10-12 months. Double check your work, and check that the aligment bolts are torqued at the right spec.

The sagging issue might require a bit more cranking on the torsion bars. Remember, the X's do have a bit of a forward leaning stance.

You might consider a set of Bilstein's for the fronts. 4X4parts.com sells a pair for 3" suspension lifts on 00'-04'. I have had nothing but problems with the Calmini fronts. I'm on my second pair in 2 years.

[Schludwiller]

Hmmm.....

Haven't heard anything great about the Calmini shocks. Bilsteins are always the favorites. Bottoming out early could break your lower shock mount which has been a problem on some "wheeled" old-bodies. You can't do much with front end shocks, so stock extensions should be what you have.

Already fixed on your truck, but the stock scissor jack works good for setting the leaf springs into the correct position (for future installers).

Regarding the "thunking". Jack up the passenger side tire and grab it, rotating left to right while watching the idler arm. If it's moving up and down your steering is shot. It you shift the tire from the top to bottom and you hear the thunking, then it's the ball-joints.

I've been diagnosing some thunking in my front end, and finally noticed the gap between the shock bushing and the top end had developed some slop. Calmini is notorious for "squeeking", but not thunking. Grease doesn't stop parts from hitting themselves and making a "thunk". Either grab someone when you're offroad and try and recreate the sound for them to locate while beside your truck, or jack up the truck and start hitting the tires/suspension and see what move or makes nose and go from there.

Your t-bars are going to settle a bit. Go for the "index finger between the bumpstop and UCA" rule for adjustment.