Differential problems on 00' Silverado

[Bunboys]

Originally Posted by hayesbcajh

So, how hard is it to replace just the diff and not the whole rear end? Most people say just replace the whole thing. The haynes manual says don't even bother touching it.

I found it pretty easy to do the swap, I used the same Ring and Pinion so I only had to worry about the carrier shims and not the pinions. I have some pretty good instructions I found from research I did prior to doing the job, I can send you a copy if you want. The only word of caution would be make sure to have plenty of shims on hand, preferebly not the cast ones like the stock ones because they seem to be a little brittle and break.

[hayesbcajh]

Originally Posted by Bunboys

I found it pretty easy to do the swap, I used the same Ring and Pinion so I only had to worry about the carrier shims and not the pinions. I have some pretty good instructions I found from research I did prior to doing the job, I can send you a copy if you want. The only word of caution would be make sure to have plenty of shims on hand, preferebly not the cast ones like the stock ones because they seem to be a little brittle and break.

That would be great if you could send the instructions. Thank you.

[skipr]

You are still gonna need a dial indicator, and if you plan on a ring gear replacement, you just opened up a whole other can of worms. because you hav to change pinions with rings, they are all matched sets. Pressing out the old bearings and races is a huge pain in the ass. And pressing in the new races is even bigger pain in the ass (referring to pinion gear bearings). At the very least you will need to know your backlash and contact pattern which requires a dial indicator w/magnetic base.

[Bunboys]

Originally Posted by skipr

You are still gonna need a dial indicator, and if you plan on a ring gear replacement, you just opened up a whole other can of worms. because you hav to change pinions with rings, they are all matched sets. Pressing out the old bearings and races is a huge pain in the ass. And pressing in the new races is even bigger pain in the ass (referring to pinion gear bearings). At the very least you will need to know your backlash and contact pattern which requires a dial indicator w/magnetic base.

Very true but I dont believe that he is replacing the ring and pinion, only the posi unit. the bearings will have to be pressed on to the new unit and the races bolt in. he will have to preload the bearings to aquire a true read from the contact pattern. All of this is included in the detailed instructions Im sending him, it also covers ring and pinion replacement. As for anyone reading this post, skipr is 100% correct with what he says. This can very easily turn into a BIG pain in the ass! I wouldnt recomend anyone attempting to do this unless they have mechanical experience, the proper tools, and can follow directions.

p.s. and a friend with a car to take you around for parts

[skipr]

Originally Posted by Bunboys

Very true but I dont believe that he is replacing the ring and pinion, only the posi unit. the bearings will have to be pressed on to the new unit and the races bolt in. he will have to preload the bearings to aquire a true read from the contact pattern. All of this is included in the detailed instructions Im sending him, it also covers ring and pinion replacement. As for anyone reading this post, skipr is 100% correct with what he says. This can very easily turn into a BIG pain in the ass! I wouldnt recomend anyone attempting to do this unless they have mechanical experience, the proper tools, and can follow directions.

p.s. and a friend with a car to take you around for parts

It seems you have gone through this headache yourself.

[rrousou]

GM units junk..Get an Auburn Gear. I put in several and with some mechanical knowledge you can do it in about 3 hours. No shiming required.

[skipr]

Originally Posted by rrousou

GM units junk..Get an Auburn Gear. I put in several and with some mechanical knowledge you can do it in about 3 hours. No shiming required.

Are you saying that your backlash comes out perfect on first atempt? Or you don't bother checking? Close is good enough huh?

[Bunboys]

No Shims??? Can you please explain?

[intel_guy]

would this kit work on a G80 differential ? I asked the guy selling and got no response. So I figure i'd ask the experts.

thanks.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...RK%3AMEWA%3AIT

[skipr]

Originally Posted by intel_guy

would this kit work on a G80 differential ? I asked the guy selling and got no response. So I figure i'd ask the experts.

thanks.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...RK%3AMEWA%3AIT

Yea it will work, but I wouldn't buy Koyo bearings. The OEM replacements are Timken bearings. A good manufactor (USA made) that has been in the buisness for over 50 years.You will pay more, but why go cheap on something like this. Alot of stress riding on those bearings.

[99redsilverado]

i would pull the cover, assess the damaga and if there are alot of metal shavings, replace the entire rear end...jasper 3 yr 75k warranty is awesome...i had the same noise, and ended up throwing half of my diff out of the cover, made a whole the size of my fist, email me and i will show you pics redneckd_out@mindspring.com

[intel_guy]

Actually, if I open it up, clean it out, replace the cover, put new fluid in, and still have an issue, I'll probably let Cottman do a complete repair for me at a cost of about $300-400. That way it's fully covered if it's not done right. I'd love to experiment, but if I screw up on a big ticket item like this then that's just wasteful. Alternatively, maybe I should get the eaton differential and be done with it...decisions decisions...

I found this link:
http://www.gm-trucks.com/IAR_RearDifffluid.shtml

It does not give any details as to how they are cleaning the differential out. Once you have the cover removed, they say to clean it out. Is there a fluid you can spray in there to flush the parts ? Or are they just cleaning the inside of the cover ?

[arkyinaz]

I have a 2000 Chevy Silveraldo 1500 4x4 and have to replace the spider gears on my truck, after several phone calls I found where I need to purchase them, the owner has had three phone calls today on these gears alone, after reading this forum and going through my own dilemma, I was wanting to email Chevy to find out why something hasn't been done by them to resolve this problem. This should be a recall. I visited the Chevy website and nowhere in there was a link that I could talk to them directly, there is however an address. I will send them a letter, what I'm wondering is, has anyone complained to Chevy about this problem? I am a diehard Chevy fan but this truck has just about changed my mind. I have had more problems and have spent more money on this one truck then I really care to talk about. Have you guys said anything to Chevy??

[j cAT]

this posting is too old,,,,,,, start new post of your own....