Outer tie-rod questions

[LittleHoov]

I have done tie-rods before on other vehicles, but it looks like the Intrigue might be slightly different.

First off lets talk about nuts

The Chiltons says there are 2 different kinds, and that they should be replaced with the same kind. It says there are torque-to-yield, and the regular castle nut with cotter pin.

The new TRE I got came with a castle nut, cotter pin, what I can only assume is a new jamnut, and a washer, which Im not sure where it goes yet.

The TREs on my car right now are using what I can only assume are the torque to yield nuts, they have no cotter pins and are not split like castle nuts. Will it hurt anything to use the traditional style nuts on the new install instead of trying to procure new tty nuts?


Also, regarding the jamnut (never messed with one before). Im under the impression I need to mark the jamnut and loosen it one full turn, then count the number of turns it takes to remove the old TRE end, install the new one with the same number,and then tighten up the jamnut? That should be close enough to get it to the alignment shop without major damage (I just bought new tires)

Or if it drives ok, I might just not get it aligned, but any other tips tricks?

[fhofstra]

Littlehoov -
I have never replaced my outer TREs, but recall loosening them for other front-end work that I did back in 2009. I could have sworn I bought and replaced one, but my records don't show it. Anyway, the outer TRE's definitely did not have castle nuts with cotter pins, so they must have been "tty" nuts. I just retightened everything, re-using the old nuts, and so far so good.
I had heard the same trick about loosening the jam nut, then counting the turns to unscrew the TRE, in order to duplicate that with the new unit (assuming same dimensions of course -- safe assumption, I guess?)
One other comment - you mentioned not bothering with an alignment if it drives ok. I got a new set of Goodyear Triple-treads in Nov '07, and since the car drove so well, I figured the alignment was fine. 20,000 miles later, late summer '09, after I replaced all struts and a broken anti-sway bar, I got a complete alignment, just to make everything right, and that's when I found that despite the fine driving, the alignment had not been right, and the tires had worn such that ever since the alignment, they have a a loud tire roar. It's my fault, and I'm now waiting for them to wear enough that I can justify a new set of tires. But you can bet I will get an alignment either right before, or right after I buy them (whatever the alignment shop tells me).
BTW, sorry to see our trusty Intrigue pages dwindle down, but I guess that's normal. I'm still hoping for another 200K out of mine (well, kind of).

[LittleHoov]

Yeah Im not sure, I was remember that the side with the bad TRE end, the passenger side, is also the same side I took loose when I did the swaybar install, and like you, I just reused the old nut and cranked it down...whether or not that had anything to do with its failure I dont know, more likely its the fact its an oem unit and the car has close to 200k on it.

I probably just go ahead and use the castle nut, I dont understand how it could make any possible difference...thats probably what the washer is for also, since the knuckle is aluminum and whatnot.

Ill tackle it within the next few days, maybe Ill get some more feedback in the mean time.

I agree there are very few Intrigue posts, but all I get from that is that they are reliable cars, and the average joe has no need to seek online help...so the majority of people on forums like these are "car guys" who know more about their cars than the average joe driver.

[procaddytech]

Tip: If you loosen the jam nut just enough to allow the tie rod end to be unscrewed you do not have to count the turns. Screw the new tie rod end on until it just touches the jam nut an you will be in the sam spot. If you want to replace the jam nut (not really necessary), measure from the nut to the end of the shaft after the tie rod is off. Counting is a pain! The washer is for what you suspected. The castle nut doesn't have a washer flat bottom like the OEM nuts. A toe adjustment should be done in case of minor differences in the new tie rods.

[LittleHoov]

Thanks for the input, I figured thats what the washer before, because like you said, the OEM nuts have a sort of flared bottom that is wider than the nut itself...

I should be able to get it close enough to limp it to get an alignment, I think Ill go ahead and get it done at the place I got the tires, especially since they were the ones who discovered the bad TRE, and Im sure will point to that if I have any trouble with the tires if I dont get it done, since Im sure they made note of it.

Thanks as always for the input, Im usually pretty competent and such, I just like to know what Im getting into before I get into it.

[JLARSJ]

Hoov,
I've read your posts around for a long time..always helpful as I've tinkered with my ride.

So, my tip to you today, if not too late, that is.... if the old nut doesn't come off, sawzall it off. Like below.

Also, see my nuts .... new ones have been on for 6 months with no probs.

Btw, I measured the center of the new ball joint to the end with the old and new, same dimensions.

Good luck with it!

[LittleHoov]

Thanks folks, I ended up doing both sides. Jams nuts came loose easily enough, I just loosened them like, not even a half turn, just enough to get the TRE loose.

Counted the numbers of turns to remove, and reinstalled the new ones with same amount, I think the new ones were just slightly shorter, because I had to tighten the jam nuts more than I had loosened them originally if that makes sense.

Got an alignment done for good measure, they didnt say anything about it being really out of whack or anything, so I probably wouldve been ok.

I used the regular style castle nuts with washers, and I had no issues remove the factory nuts/