No Oil Pressure - Page 5

rhandwor · 07-23-2009, 07:14 AM

I would purchase the new oil pump drop the pan and remove the strainer. I would clean it good. Get an old pan and boil it in water to help clean the strainer. I used to soak them in a parts washer overnight and clean in the morning. Check the bearings while the pan is off otherwise you may be wasting your money.
I had a machine shop bore,install new pistons,turn the crank,plus a valve job.
I didn't look at the bearings he gave me I used an tool and a drill and couldn't get oil pressure. I check the bearing size and the decimal point was in the wrong place. I went back and got new bearings and head gaskets. Oversize bearings will drop the pressure. Then a valve was leaking and I had to go back and have it reground and another head gasket.
I changed machine shops.

12Ounce · 07-23-2009, 08:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rhandwor

I changed machine shops.

Since you are nearby, if you are ever in the market for cyl head work, ... may I suggest Dover Cyl Head Repair, College Park GA. Ask for Jess. You will never be unhappy with their work. And they network with other shops that do short block work ... as they do not.

I hope, and think, that this tip does not go against forum rules on merchandising. Other than goodwill, I have no dog ....

12Ounce · 07-23-2009, 08:50 AM

I just put the finishing touches on an Escort engine rebuild yesterday. To prime the oil system, all you can to is crank, crank, crank .... grin and bear it ... as the oil pump is directly driven off the crankshaft. There is no way to use a drill motor for priming. I had the oil filter loose .... even so, it took several minutes (it seemed) for the Vaseline filled pump to lift oil from the pan.

But after that, the plugs were installed and it fired right up ... runs very sweet!

MYHELIGUY · 07-23-2009, 04:18 PM

Well i 'm headed off to autozone auto parts to buy the primer tool,i will try to prime this pump before starting the engine any more,i will be very upset with this engine at only 80k miles on it ,to need bearings,it had no knocks or rattles,it ran fine,just steam started out the tail pipe from intake gaskets leaking.
Good deal on your rebuild engine .congrats

12Ounce · 07-23-2009, 07:03 PM

.
http://i29.tinypic.com/8y4xsn.jpg
.
I'm embarrassed again. I found the image. It shows that I don't remember anything very well. The white "X" marks the location of the pressure relief valve.

MYHELIGUY · 07-23-2009, 08:47 PM

12OUNCE,
Hey, i appreciate your help. it just kinda gets my hair standing up about this engine needing all this repair=how in the world can a oil pump just lose its prime,then the possiblity of the bearings,it just doesn't make sense. Glad you found the picture, that really confirms the position of the pressure valve,and what will need to be done to replace it.now, the water pump will not come off from hitting the frame cause the mounting studs are sticking out to far and the pump can't be lift off,unbelievable. and i just don't see how there will be enough room to get the front cover off,maybe it will. i'm just going to install new oil pump,and use the primer tool to prime the pump,we'll see what happens. THANKS
rhandwor,
yes you have the right idea,and i may have to do just that. THANKS

12Ounce · 07-23-2009, 09:08 PM

I may remember shortening those studs a wee bit to help get the water pump off ... but there ARE ways to get it off. Rig up something to push the engine in the direction away from the frame ... etc, etc.

If that spring breaks ... no oil pressure.

MYHELIGUY · 07-23-2009, 10:25 PM

Is there any way to tell if the spring is broken without removing the front cover to get to it ?

12Ounce · 07-24-2009, 06:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MYHELIGUY

Is there any way to tell if the spring is broken without removing the front cover to get to it ?

There probably is, since the oil pump is off ... but it would require some exotic effort and rigging.

Why not remove the oil pan? That seems to be the most direct and sure method of determining what's wrong. ?? It ain't RS!

wiswind · 07-24-2009, 07:45 PM

Removal of the oil pan requires the removal of the "Y" pipe (both catalytic converters).
When you do this, before disconnecting the back from the flex pipe, support the front of the flex pipe with something......tie it up with some wire, etc.
If you let it dangle......or wiggle it around too much, you will break the braiding and need to buy a new one.

For water pump removal.......the instructions that I have read say to undo the motor mount(s) on that end of the motor and raise that end of the motor up about 4 inches, which will give you the clearance needed to get the water pump off.

MYHELIGUY · 07-27-2009, 08:31 PM

OK,Today i removed the oil pan, siliconed on heavy-wonder if the factory did this,had to pry it off. with the pan off,found that pieces of aluminum in the oil pan, from rods that are proably coming loose, i haven't removed the shield covering the rods and crank yet,but the oil pan has a heavy mark in it,the shield has a long dent across it,looks like a rod traveling.now, i am undecided on rebuilding or junking the van, i am just so pis--- ,a motor with only 80k miles on it,and no noises,ran fine. once i remove the shield covering the crank,then i can see how much the crank is damaged,and rods. this is a real let-down, thanks f.m.c.

12Ounce · 07-27-2009, 10:09 PM

Thanks for sharing even the bad news with us. I'm sorry you found what you did ... but at least, now you know for sure what you face.

I normally am inclined to rebuild an engine ... but the cost may be prohibitive ... it may be better to replace.

Or; if you could do the minimum repair to get it running, it might work for you as a "clunker for cash".

MYHELIGUY · 07-27-2009, 11:12 PM

Yes , i will decide what i will do. my wife really likes this van. the new ones have way to hard of seats. so, i'll post back. Thanks

12Ounce · 07-28-2009, 05:25 AM

... I think I would also go by a dealership and see what they can work out for you. A vehicle that is to be traded in is supposed to be "running" ... but why? , ... if it going right to the recycle? Maybe its OK to be towed.

You can always buy another van later.

rhandwor · 07-28-2009, 07:27 AM

Price a rebuilt short block and a valve job this maybe your cheapest way out of this problem. Unless you know the scrap yard you take a chance. I talked to a man on his third engine from a scrap yard. Replaced free but he was stuck for the work. A good re builder will pay you a flat rate to R/R a motor if bad. Normally a short block comes with a new oil pump and gasket set. Along with a new timing chain.

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