re: more problems with the instrument cluster

[reble]

Up date. the cluster is giving me more problems. I wish that I could afford to order a new cluster from Ford and stick it in. That would solve everything. Now the silly beast won't start. The starter motor won't even turn over. Everything else lights up, electric locks work, electric sliding doors will open and close on power, the car radio works also.

I manage to get the starter motor working by cutting the ground side wire from the starter relay to the cluster and route that line directly to ground. I found the right wire to cut because I got the wiring diagram book from Ebay. But the motor still won't start. Some how the cluster is stopping the power from getting to the distributor > spark plugs. I have not verified it with a VOM yet. But I suspect the problem is in the cluster also. I just have not figured out how to bypass the cluster on this yet. I wish there was a detailed (component level) wiring diagram for this cluster that I could get. It would make it easier to fix the gas gauge problem. I could ether fix the problem ground or bypass that ground and fix it that way. Does anyone have any ideas?

[12Ounce]

I have read that there is a digital three-way "marriage" that happens on the assembly line, between the instrument cluster, the PCM, and the anti-theft sensor that wraps around the key tumbler. At this point in time, the key-code is established ... all "on-board". Apparently, after this time ... if any of the three components is changed out, or damaged, it takes a dealership intervention with a special electronic tool to "marry" things back again.

(I'm telling you much more than I know!)

[reble]

I figured as much. But if I can't start the the motor. I am stuck because I can't afford the tow bill as well as the repairs. I think it is in the line from the ignition key to the ignition coil. If I could find the ignition coil. I can make a jumper from the ignition coil to the battery and get it to a repair shop.

Originally Posted by 12Ounce

I have read that there is a digital three-way "marriage" that happens on the assembly line, between the instrument cluster, the PCM, and the anti-theft sensor that wraps around the key tumbler. At this point in time, the key-code is established ... all "on-board". Apparently, after this time ... if any of the three components is changed out, or damaged, it takes a dealership intervention with a special electronic tool to "marry" things back again.

(I'm telling you much more than I know!)

[tomj76]

Confirm that you have an anti-theft security system.

Check fuel pressure at the fuel rail.

Check for spark by removing a plug.

Check for fuel injector B+ (the are turned on by grounding one terminal). Have someone crank the engine while listening to an injector with a stethoscope (you should hear it click/tap).