Cruise control for 96 Metro Manual

[DOCTORBILL]

Go see my latest Thread about the Vacuum problem with my Metro...

"Vacuum problem - Car works great! Crazy!"

Here is a Motorcycle installation of this same Audiovox model:
http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shopta...se-control.htm

This guy made a Vacuum Module our of PVC Pipe and some check valves
from NAPA !

DoctorBill

[turbobob_01]

I just installed an audiovox ccs 100 on my 95 geo metro just last week-end. Pardon my bragging but it worked the very first time out. I think this is a pretty tough undertaking for someone without a lot of mechanical experience as you have described yourself. My installation was on a manual trans. It works entirely off of the tac signal, no weights installed, no VSS sensor used. I am very impressed with the way it works for me and it's simplicity. I did not even have to wire anything to the clutch engaged switch. The computer just knows to disengage when the rpms go up suddenly. Did you set all the little switches in the servo correctly? If you want I will try to answer specific questions for you.

[DOCTORBILL]

I triple checked everything.

I tried everything that the Support People told me at their 800 number and
nothing worked.

ALL of the "Trouble Shooting" readings were dead on...

So I sent the Vacuum Control Servo back to Audiovox today....

I think it is dead meat. My Karma.........

Man - it was so easy removing it!

BTW - my vacuum was 8 PSI while giving any gas. 25 PSI at idle.

So my Vacuum Canister coming from the front of the Intake Manifold and from the MAP Sensor line
holds 25 PSI continuously.
Two one-->way vacuum valves from NAPA allow either line to maintain a good vacuum.
The canister (3" PVC Pipe) is 0.6 Liter (600 mL).

I have photos of the whole process to put on this Forum when I am done...

I had an Audiovox 25 years ago and it worked right away back then.
So I assume I just got a "lemon" this time.

DoctorBill

[turbobob_01]

Have you got it working yet? I will be glad to tell you how I hooked mine up if you like.

[DOCTORBILL]

I sent the Vacuum Module back to the Audiovox Repair Center in hauppage, NY.

They got it Friday July 6th.

We'll see just how fast they take care of this problem.

DoctorBill

[Hugemoth]

I just now finished installing one of the Audiovox units on my 93 Swift 4 cyl. Would like to have attached the cable to the TBI but there just wasn't room due to the valve cover being in the way. Instead I used some of the bracketry included in the kit to attach it to the throttle peddle lever and that worked fine. Pain in the ass to get to things under the dash for a guy my size so I removed the throttle peddle assembly to work on it on the bench. The unit works good even without the vacuum canister but I'll probably build one when I get around to it.

Q

[DOCTORBILL]

I am 5' 10" and 187 lbs - but that isn't the problem so much as being 64 and
not very flexible and having to wear glasses for every different close-up
distance. I had to work with my left hand only - no room under there...

I got a letter back from Audiovox repair in hauppage, NY that said they recieved
the Vacuum Control unit.

Somewhere on their web site it says they have a 14 day turnaround.

Hope so.....

I'd really like to get it working - caught myself doing 60 mph on Highway 27
yesterday - COPs (constable on patrol) all over the place - now even in common
cars and vans - sneaky buggers!

Seems like they are never around when I see the freaking drunks and crazies
driving that road.

Question - why do some people pass you when you are obviously in a long line of slow cars?
Like it is going to be better driving behind the car in front of you going the
same speed as the cars in front of them and so on and so on...?

DoctorBill

[DOCTORBILL]

As I mentioned before, I had sent the Vacuum Control Module back to Audiovox
in Hauppage, NY for repair and they received it on the 9th of July.

Today UPS dropped off a package.

They sent me an entire new unit!

The whole "Ball of Wax" as they say in California.....

Tomorrow I will put the Vacuum Control Module back in.

If that doesn't work, I now have another Dashboard Switch to check out if my
old one was the problem.

Ahhh'll be baaack......maybe I can "Terminate" this problem!

DoctorBill

[Hugemoth]

Just back from my first long trip after installing the cruise control, about 1500 miles. Sure is nice! I found it maintains speed very well on hills and is able to pull the throttle to about 90 percent even without a vacuum tank. I tried setting the sensitivity dip switches to the middle settings and found the speed would vary about 3 mph. The most sensitive setting would hold speed to within 1 mph, which I prefer. The only drawback I see is that it jumps slightly when pushing the engagement switch.

Average gas mileage on the trip was just over 50 with the best tank being 53.5. Best ever for my 1.3L. Power was excellent with the higher compression from the ring job I did last weekend. It did burn some oil though, evidently sucking it through the valve seals. Stepping on the throttle after long down hill runs caused noticeable puffs of smoke. I have new valve seals to put in this weekend.

Q

[DOCTORBILL]

As I said recently, Audiovox sent me a whole new Cruise Control.

Today I set all the little dip switches to off (down) except number 7 which the
Trouble Shooting guy on the phone said should be up for the Magnetic Pickup.

I checked ALL the wires for voltage and such and each one checked out as per
the manual.

Tried it out - NOTHING! Not a single peep or jump. The Accelerate button
does nothing either.

So......I pulled the new switch out of the plastic bag and stuck it into the
coupler to see if my old switch was the problem. NOTHING.
The switch lights up as it should, but no cigar!

I unhooked the line from the brake light to see if that was somehow feeding a stop signal - NOTHING.

So either GOD doesn't want me to have a Cruise Control or (my first guess at
this point) maybe the PLUG that goes into the Vacuum Module (Servo Assembly),
isn't making contact with those pins. Maybe if I solder the Bastards in place.....

I can measure voltages all day long at the connectors, but if a wire isn't making
a good connection - no workie!

A second guess - I'm wondering if maybe the +12 wire I used is on when the key is on
but off when the engine is actually running....(?)
You do the troubleshooting test with the key on. I can hook the RED directly to the battery to check that.

If anybody has any ideas, I sure would like to hear about them right now!

I will try whatever I can, but the LAST RESORT is to go to an automotive
Electrical Shop and have them check it out - probably cost me as much as
the Cruise Control itself cost in the first place....

DoctorBill .....I'll Be Back....

[Hugemoth]

Bill,

Why the magnets? You shouldn't need them on your car.

I wouldn't solder the wires to the control unit. It's not likely there is a contact problem with that type of connector. I assume you have it plugged in the right direction and pushed all the way in.

Did you remove the jumper plug in the control unit that is used for automatic transmissions?

Best wire to get 12V+ when key is on is the cig lighter wire.

I believe my 93 Swift has the same wiring setup as your car and my switches are set to 1 on, 2 off, 3 on, 4 off, 5 on, 6 off, 7 on.

Q

[Crvett69]

if you were closer you could compare it to the one in her car and see if we could figure out whats wrong

[DOCTORBILL]

1. Yes - I removed the Jumper as soon as I got the replacement unit.

2. I matched the colors of the wires to the diagram in the manual for the plug
going into the Vacuum Servo Module. The voltages on THAT plug match
what the manual says. The plug is pushed in all the way.

3. I did the Magnets when the unit wouldn't work with the Yellow/Green signal
wire from the ECM.

Besides, I like the magnet system since it is related to the vehicle's actual speed. I used that way about 30 years ago on a VW Rabbit -
worked well !

I have done this before - worked immediately. That's why this is so damned
frustrating! Same unit.

I think it is time to do some Sherlock Holmsian logic - "If all else fails, use the simple art of elimination..."

Probably something so freaking simple that when I find it, I'll laugh - yah, right !

DoctorBill....I'll be back

PS - I am sorely tempted to do as they warn against - Jack-stand the car up
and run the system in my driveway so I can monitor things as the work...!

[DOCTORBILL]

Any suggestions on how to TEST the Cruise Control sans automobile?

12 volt battery - some signal input (battery trickle charger - 4800 cps) - some
kind of vacuum source.

It ought to then "Pull" on the cable when the switch is pushed - no?

The damned thing is so simple - as apparently I am for not being able to get the
freaking thing to work....

Who said they got it to work of off the coil alone? Did you hook the gray
wire to the coil?

It has been Bar-B-Que hot in my driveway last couple of days when I could
get to it - no shade available, so keep the faith - I will conquer this Bugger
or die trying....

DoctorBill

[DOCTORBILL]

I don't know if any one gives a big Rat's Rump about this....

I finally found out why my Audiovox Cruise Control wouldn't work.

I had wired up EVERYTHING as per the instructions.

It all checked out. Wouldn't work.

Called "Patrick" at the Audiovox Tech Service number and he advised me.

What he told me to do - didn't work.

So in desperation, I cut the 12 volt wire from the Ignition Key wire (Black/White
strip) to the ORANGE Fused wire going to the Switch Pad on the dashboard
and hooked BOTH red POWER wires directly to the Positive Battery
Post.

Walla! Now it works fine....! WTF is that all about ?

That large Black/White Strip wire must have some signal running on top of the
+12 volts that screws with the Cruise Control's electronics.

Do any of you Geo Metro wizards have any idea which wire from the Ignition
Key that I should use ?

Crvett69 - do you remember which wire you chose to use for Keyed Power?

I thought I'd post this to perhaps help some other poor bugger who might have
the bad Karma as I did.

I'm all happy now....all's well in Geo Metro land again....Metro on folks!

DoctorBill

PS - Someone suggested I use the wire to the Cigarette Lighter, but I want to make that
12 volts constantly so I can recharge my Cell Phone with the Ciggie Lighter socket whilst
I am in the store or work....gotta have my Cell Phone working so my wife can call me with
"things to buy" before coming home.....!