AC compressor replacement on 2001 Taurus/Vulcan

[hg woods]

When you take the spring log connector apart does it allow you to replace the orifice tube or is the orifice tube some where else in the system?

[coldstone]

Originally Posted by shorod

You're correct, the factory service manual (for the 2002 model year anyway) states that you need to remove the compressor to change the field coil and clutch. It also suggests replacing the evaporator core orifice as well as the accumulator.

The steps to remove the compressor include removing the power steering pump. There are a lot of diagrams in the service manual steps. If you send me a Private Message with an e-mail address for you, I'll e-mail you a PDF of the steps from the 2002 service manual. I do not have the 2001 service manual.

-Rod

Do you know if the procedure is the same for the 1999 3.0 DOHC to remove the compressor? I have to replace mine as it seized up and I don't see an "easy" way to do the job. Thanks.

[Kathy380]

Hello, my boyfriend replaced my ac compressor and the ac hose assembly and the serpentine belt on my 2002 Ford Taurus-6cyl. Is the ac hose assembly the same thing as the accumulator dehydrator or receiver dryer? Also he was unable to put in the orifice tube as he did not know where it went and had already put the car back together so now I have to go have that done professionally somewhere. My question is: He did not flush the system out before putting in the new parts. I read the instruction sheet that came with the compressor and I know this MUST be done. Is it too late? Can the shop that puts in my orifice tube do the ac flush? Will it require removing all the parts that my boyfriend put in? Or can they just disconnect the refrigerant lines and do it that way. Instructions say the lines and the evaporator both need to be flushed prior to use. What do you think is a fair cost to flush or vac the system? I got quoted $155 + Freon. Also What do u think is fair price to put orifice tube in? I realize it is a big job to get in there. Lastly.. Does my car even have a condenser? On the instructions that came with compressor it says to change condenser too (if applicable) and that this needs to be flushed as well, if not new. Sorry so many questions I do know alot about cars but need help. I am just making sure my boyfriend is not skipping any important steps because he is frustrated at this point and wants to be done with it. He said no flush/vac was needed because all the parts are new but I disagree. The evaporator and refrig lines are not new and could have metal shavings. Plus I don't think he changed out the clutch and coil. Is that necessary or is that the internal parts of the compressor? Also we did not check the system for leaks yet, this should be done after it is charged correct? The initial problem is that I had no cold air and the guy who sold me the car said it just needed a shot of freon. We ALL know that is NEVER the case but we didn't put the freon in and we drove 5 hours North and my compressor locked up and damaged my serpentine belt Gosh... You probably won't answer all of this but I would truly be indebted to you if you did as best you could. Thank you sooo much!
Sincerely,
Kathy Bouchard

[shorod]

The accumulator/receiver-drier won't necessarily get replaced in the process of changing the lines. They are one in the same and will be connected to the evaporator core at the firewall. The hose that was replaced and connects to the accumulator is probably where the orifice tube should have been installed, either in the hose or in the rigid tube the hose connects to. You will have a condensor, and it is located in front of the cooling system radiator. It looks basically the same as the radiator. A shop should be able to flush the system when they install the orifice tube. The main purpose of the flush is to get any contaminants out of the system so they don't plug the orifice tube or damage the new compressor. Do the instructions with the new compressor state whether or not it was shipped with the correct oil charge already? If not, after the shop installs the orifice tube, connects everything back up, then pulls a vacuum on the system to check for gross leaks, they should install the proper amount of oil as well. They likely would do this anyway after flushing the system.

If the new compressor did not come with a new field coil and clutch assembly, your boyfriend would have used the one from the old compressor. That is not part of the closed refrigerant system but rather the clutch mechanism for the belt drive.

I really don't know what a reasonable price would be to have the system flushed, the orifice tube installed, and then the system evacuated, recharged (including oil) and leak checked.

-Rod

[Kathy380]

Thanks sooo much you are really helping me a great deal. I really appreciate it and I will tell my bf where you said the orifice tube is and maybe he will do it himself. The shop quoted me almost $400 to put it in and do the vac. I'm wondering if the hose assembly he put in is not the accumulator? Auto zone said in order for the warranty to be 2 years he had to put a new accumulator in so I thought that is what they sold him but on the receipt it says ac hose assembly and it was like $79. It looked like a long pipe with a tank in the middle of it. The pipe kind of twisted left and right it was not straight. It was all black including the small tank. So if he did not change the accumulator then it will have to be vac'd out also right? And the condensor gets vac'd out too? Is this done separately? Yes the compressor DID come with oil in it already but the guy at the shop said it will be vac'd out when they flush the system. I would think it dangerouse to vac out the lines thru the new compressor. All that junk will get in there. Won't it ruin my new compressor??
Kathy

[shorod]

So now that I'm home I checked my Ford factory service manual for the 2002 Taurus and discovered that I didn't correctly state the location of the orifice tube. It's actually in the line between the condenser and the evaporator core. There should be a protective cover over the rigid hose connection and the orifice tube is installed inside that fitting. If you want to send me a Private Message with an e-mail address for you, I'll send you a PDF copy of the orifice tube replacement procedure.

-Rod

[cjallen42]

Hi, I was wondering if I could get that same pdf from the service manual for the ac compressor removal. my email is allen.chr@husky.neu.edu. thank you! Chris

[bleedingblue]

can somone please send the PDF file to me I need to replace my AC clutch plates as they are grinding and annoying me
thanks so much
any further input is apprieciated
mike

[Ronro]

shorod: I have a 2001 Ford Taurus and I have removed the AC compressor, the entire line to the firewall, which includes the condensor/drier. Can you please send me the PDF related location and installation of the orifice tube? Thanks so much.

[Ronro]

I have removed and have replacement parts for the AC compressor and entire accumulator/drier hose unit to the firewall. Does anyone know how and where I replace the orifice tube on a 2001 Ford Taurus?

[hbshop]

Originally Posted by shorod

How are you sure that the A/C compressor is a problem? If the compressor is truely shot, you will want to replace the accumulator/receiver/drier since bits of the piston rings are likely partially plugging the accumulator. However, Ford compressors don't fail all that often, and yours is still pretty new.

-Rod

I am having an AC compressor problem similiar to what i read from idjikaity did on his 2001 Taurus. I disconnected the power connector to the compressor when I first heard what sounded like a squealing noise when I turned on the AC. When I was able to visibly watch the compressor clutch when i turned the AC on, it would turn very very slow, which is why i disconnected the power to the compressor. I now hear what is a rattling sound from the compressor, and i want to replace the compressor. I" plan to purchase the compressor, drier, and orfice tube. I am stillllllll reading through the forum what to first, second, etc. i hesistated when i came across what was described as "flushing the system" Can someone advise which resource is best to follow? I have the Hayes manual, but it does not go into the detail for replacing all the parts mentioned, including flushing the system or getting oil into the compressor. Is someone able to provide me the service manual for the 2001 taurus. would the 2002 manual be just as helpful?
I do not want to overlook a step in this process, and when i read
different sites, i keep discovering different procedures that are not consistent.

[shorod]

Welcome to the forum!

It's pretty common that you'll come across different recommendations from different folks. Some people are very cautious and replace everything that could be effected, others are very cost conscious and only want to replace the bare minimum items that are damaged. And you'll likely find about everything in between as well. It's difficult to say one approach is better than the other since money is tight for most these days. Change everything and it will cost you, change too few items, more could fail, and that will cost you.

With that being said, and considering my non-expert status with A/C, I'm not going to offer suggestions there either. Probably the best thing to do would be to further diagnose the system on your car to determine if the rattle is a failing compressor or maybe just a failing compressor pulley bearing or clutch. If compressor, then there is probably debris in the lines and a flush may be in order along with compressor and orifice replacement, etc. If it's just the bearing or clutch assembly, you may be able to get by with just a new pulley, field coil, and clutch assembly.

The service manual for the 2002 is probably very similar to the 2001, but having not owned either of these model years I'm not sure what changes there are between the models.

-Rod

[Johnhartz]

Hello I am in great need knowing how to properly take out ac compressor and install the new one. At first thought it was the serpentine belt, but it was actually the broken pulley on the ac compressor. It was loose and grinder up against the pulley. Therefore all I need to know is how disconnect the line and bolts of course. Although it seems like there is more to it. Like the draining and then pumping the air in at the end. This is where I have questions. Do you have detailed instructions or the PDF you have been mentioning. My email is johnohhhartz@gmail.com

[Johnhartz]

Originally Posted by bleedingblue

can somone please send the PDF file to me I need to replace my AC clutch plates as they are grinding and annoying me
thanks so much
any further input is apprieciated
mike

Hey Mike,
Having the same problem and wondering if I have to replace the entire ac compressor. How were you able to just fix the plates. Thank you!

[shorod]

Originally Posted by Johnhartz

Although it seems like there is more to it. Like the draining and then pumping the air in at the end. This is where I have questions. Do you have detailed instructions or the PDF you have been mentioning.

Are you referring to evacuating and recharging the system? If so, you're right, there is more to it. Evacuating the system requires specialized equipment to properly recover the existing refrigerant as it is illegal to intentionally release the R-134a in to the atmosphere. Likewise specialized equipment is require to properly recharge the system and fill with the proper amount of oil and R-134a. You're going to need to visit a shop that does A/C work for that, but quite honestly that's probably your best approach at this point anyway. It's possible that all you really need is a new pulley and/or clutch/field coil assembly rather than a new compressor. An honest, experienced shop will be able to make that determination for you, and if the compressor is shot, will be able to evacuate the system in order for the compressor to be replaced as well.

-Rod