reading trouble codes

[shadysicilian]

Hey I got a 99 k1500 burban and the check engine light just came on. Is there a way to read the codes without the hand held computer that the dealer uses? If so where can I find a code list? I know in my old Chrysler I could just turn the ignition off and on five times and the engine light would blink out a code. But I am guessing that I may need to use a jumper wire on a couple of the pegs under the dash. Any help would be great.

[Old Dave]

The 99's utilize OBDII and you have to have the scanner to read the fault code. If you have an Autozone there they will read the code for you at no charge. Good luck.

[wafrederick]

DO NOT go to AutoZone to get the codes read!They are 99.9% wrong and my father can prove them wrong.They are not trained into computer work being paid about $5.00 an hour and they use an useless code reader instead of a scan tool.Go to a shop that has a scan tool that reads the codes and shows what the codes are.

[shadysicilian]

Thanks but I just bit the bullet for $100 and got my own code reader. And if any one was wondering it says that it is the catalytic converter.
code P430.

[MT-2500]

A code 430 does not always mean that the cat is bad.
http://www.troublecodes.net/articles/catfailure/
You did not give us the mileage but.
If the cat is bad it may be under the 8 year 80k emmision warranty.
Did you pick up any other codes?
A good tune may be the first idea on the repair list.
A miss fire or o2 sensor fuel pressure or other sensors may cause it to.
Does it have a K&N air filter or any other add on stuff?
MT

[shadysicilian]

nope no add ons just a plain jane under the hood.
it has 136 k for mileage and the check engine light just went out. I cleared the code and we will see what happens next. Just tuned it 20,000 miles ago.....plugs wires filters, etc etc. stil getting 15 mpg.

[MT-2500]

Check out the link I sent. Lot of good info in it.
Good Luck
MT

[GMMerlin]

Replace the Bank 2 converter
The VCM determines that the oxygen storage capacity of the catalyst has degraded below a calibrated threshold
Here is what is going on:
This diagnostic test is designed in order to measure the efficiency of the three-way catalytic converter (TWC) system. Catalytic convertor efficiency is a measure of its ability to store oxygen after converting the levels of hydrocarbon (HC), carbon monoxide (CO), and oxides of nitrogen (NOx) to less harmful gases. The control module is able to evaluate the catalyst efficiency once the vehicle has met the enable criteria and the vehicle is at idle instead of the steady cruise speeds used in the past.

Once the conditions for running this diagnostic trouble code (DTC) are met, the control module commands either a lean or rich air/fuel ratio depending on the current state of the exhaust oxygen level. The control module issues a rich command if the exhaust is currently lean, or a lean command if the exhaust is currently rich. After completion of the first command, a second and opposite command is issued.

For example, if the control module were to command a rich mixture, the upstream heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) voltage would increase immediately. The rich mixture is delayed in reaching the downstream HO2S due to the conversion process occurring within the converter. The higher the efficiency, the more the delay before the rich or lean mixture is detected by the downstream oxygen (O2) sensor. As a result of the lower conversion efficiency within a damaged or poisoned catalyst, the delay in the rich or lean mixture reaching the downstream O2 sensor is significantly shorter. This DTC monitors the amount of time required for both the upstream and downstream HO2S voltages to cross a calibrated voltage threshold in response to the rich or lean command


The use of fuel with a high sulfur content or lead can degrade a marginal converters performance. Be sure to check fuel quality.

Before the three-way catalytic converter is replaced, make sure that the following conditions are not present:

- Misfire

- High engine oil consumption or coolant consumption

- Retarded spark timing or weak spark

[shadysicilian]

Thanks everyone for all you input. That was a great link. Lotta jargon but I think I got the gist of the whole issue. I will let you know what happens in the future with it. Sorry gotta run on my way to the
PATS VS JETS game. Time to give the burban its yearly tailgate.

[shadysicilian]

Thanks everyone for all you input. That was a great link. Lotta jargon but I think I got the gist of the whole issue. I will let you know what happens in the future with it. Sorry gotta run on my way to the
PATS VS JETS game. Time to give the burban its yearly tailgate.

[shadysicilian]

Originally Posted by MT-2500

Check out the link I sent. Lot of good info in it.
Good Luck
MT

Thanks everyone for all you input. That was a great link. Lotta jargon but I think I got the gist of the whole issue. I will let you know what happens in the future with it. Sorry gotta run on my way to the
PATS VS JETS game. Time to give the burban its yearly tailgate.

[bkupsho]

Hello, maybe you guys can help me. I have 2004 Suburban and it too has the check engine light on and showing code p430. It states that "catalyst system efficiency for bank 2 under the threshold for the current engine operating conditions, (Bank 1 indentifies the location of cylinder #1, whole bank 2 indentifies the cylinders on the opposite bank.)"

As I said this is an 04 with 34K miles and I noticed someone had stated that there was an emissions warranty. Would this qualify? I am a stay at home mom and my husband works ALOT! Which is a good thing as most business is falling, but I have to take care of these things and you know, some people will mess you over. So I try to be careful as I am a women and they will tell you whatever at some of these auto shops. I understand that it could be an oxygen sensor, a misfire, a vacuum leak or an oil leak into the exhaust. What steps should I take first? The fuel pump was just replaced about 2 months ago, by the chevy dealer and also replaced a seal, due to the transmission leaking. I was told to diagnos the problem would be $100, and that is not a guarantee to fix the problem. There is also a noise coming from the drive shaft, which may be the universal. It is an on and off noise, that you can only hear while standing next to the passenger doors. You can not hear it from the front or rear, weird huh? If you are under the burban, you can hold your hand on the the drive shaft and fell the vibration and something inside making the noise, where the drve shaft meets the transmission. If the noise stops and you want to hear it again, all you have to do is give it alittle rock or push and the noise is back and last about 45 sec. The dealership has spent over $5000 since we purchased this in Jan. We had warranty through them for 90 days, but with all the problems, they extended it some, but by no means are the happy with me. But they sold me a stolen SUV, that still had an active report through National Insurance Crime Bureau. I could have gone to jail if law enforcement ran the VIN. But enough of that what should I do, if I take it back to Chevy, where I bought it, they will eat me alive with repairs. So I would rather take it to someone else, or try things on my own. Please help! Thanks and it is great for you guys to take the time to respond and help people!

[MT-2500]

Welcome to AF.
With a new problem on another car/truck it is best to start you own post/new thread.
And give engine and mileage and all codes and information and someone will help you.
A word of caution on cat codes.
Cats are covered under federal emission warranty for 80K or 8 years
But cat may be caused by many things besides a bad cat.
It takes a real good mechanic with a good engine capable scanner to test it out and find where the problem is.
You are having a lot of problems for some reason.

I would suggest a good fuel pressure test and fuel regulator test is in order to.
Engine running rich or misfire or poor/needing tune up is one of the leading cause of cat code.
Find a good repair shop.
Have it tested out good and let us know what they find.
Find the problem and then maybe you you can DIY some of the work.
Good luck and let us know how it goes.

To find a good repair shop.Check around Ask around
Word of mouth.
Family friends coworkers neighbors business people and delivery people.
Mailmen and parcel delivery people get around and notice a lot of stuff.
Even a good parts house knows what shops are good and not good.
Chamber of commerce and better business bureau and city hall.
If you find a good referral to a repair shop go look them over and talk to them.
Look for a clean looking busy place with nice people running it.
Ask a few questions and ask about their qualifications and training.
Not all places have trained tech/mechanics.
If they do not find a place that does.
Even all dealers do not have all trained techs/mechanics.
MT

PS
What brand of fuel pump did they put in it?