replacing brakeline

[norteno]

well I finally found time and got the brakeline installed. I used all you guys knowledge and it made job a lot easier, thanks a lot. I got the poly armour bendable line by hand and I got pretty close to original routing. As usual tho, there is something else. When I tried bleeding the line (left rear), no fluid came out of the bleeder screw. Wat up?? I tried about 6 different times with friend pumping and holding pedal to floor but nothing. No fluid, no pressure on pedal. I started vehicle and pumped brake pedal thinking it would build pressure but still nothing. I put a new bleeder scew in too. Do I need to bleed all four wheels? If so, I start with one furthest from master cylinder right? This model Blazer is ABS. Do you bleed them the same way? thanks again!

[j cAT]

Originally Posted by norteno

well I finally found time and got the brakeline installed. I used all you guys knowledge and it made job a lot easier, thanks a lot. I got the poly armour bendable line by hand and I got pretty close to original routing. As usual tho, there is something else. When I tried bleeding the line (left rear), no fluid came out of the bleeder screw. Wat up?? I tried about 6 different times with friend pumping and holding pedal to floor but nothing. No fluid, no pressure on pedal. I started vehicle and pumped brake pedal thinking it would build pressure but still nothing. I put a new bleeder scew in too. Do I need to bleed all four wheels? If so, I start with one furthest from master cylinder right? This model Blazer is ABS. Do you bleed them the same way? thanks again!

I think I mentioned before that you must not push the brake pedal to far down and bottom out the master cylinder. this can cause it to stick in the down position. if so you will get a dead brake pedal.

pushing the pedal about 3/4 down easy and not too hard so as to not cause this sticking.

with a helper I like to loosely hook up the down stream portion of the brake line at the junction fitting in the rear. bleed the line at that point /until fluid comes out then tighten the fitting. then go to the caliper/brake cyl. bleed screw.

[Scrapper]

Originally Posted by norteno

well I finally found time and got the brakeline installed. I used all you guys knowledge and it made job a lot easier, thanks a lot. I got the poly armour bendable line by hand and I got pretty close to original routing. As usual tho, there is something else. When I tried bleeding the line (left rear), no fluid came out of the bleeder screw. Wat up?? I tried about 6 different times with friend pumping and holding pedal to floor but nothing. No fluid, no pressure on pedal. I started vehicle and pumped brake pedal thinking it would build pressure but still nothing. I put a new bleeder scew in too. Do I need to bleed all four wheels? If so, I start with one furthest from master cylinder right? This model Blazer is ABS. Do you bleed them the same way? thanks again!

suppose to start at right rear but i just do them anyway on bleeding and your fluid not coming out when you loosen bleeder take it all the way out see if fluid comes out if so you can try to clean bleeder but i'd go get a new one from parts store wont cost but about buck.

[norteno]

Will do! What's this I hear about the ABS pump needing special code reader or special tool to allow it to be bled?? Sorry dude but I forgot to mention a very important thing, when brake line burst, I had to drive about 6 miles home and pressed brakes along the way but tried to use emergency brakes the whole way and dumb ass me, did not stop to fill master cylinder with fluid along the way. Got home and it was not entirely empty but front resevior on master cylider was 90% empty. Shit!! So there might be air in ABS pump and could this prevent brakes from bleeding properly?

[j cAT]

Originally Posted by norteno

Will do! What's this I hear about the ABS pump needing special code reader or special tool to allow it to be bled?? Sorry dude but I forgot to mention a very important thing, when brake line burst, I had to drive about 6 miles home and pressed brakes along the way but tried to use emergency brakes the whole way and dumb ass me, did not stop to fill master cylinder with fluid along the way. Got home and it was not entirely empty but front resevior on master cylider was 90% empty. Shit!! So there might be air in ABS pump and could this prevent brakes from bleeding properly?

this is when the ABS valve body I believe for sure will require the GM ABS bleeding equipment. these valves must be commanded to operate as the bleed process is being done. air will be traped in this module.

If you ran the master dry this can cause the master to stick. If so then you will get no pedal resistance / pressure created.

do the master cylinder bleed proceedure then see if you can do some bleeding. then if you find that the ABS valve body is causing brake issues you will require the GM bleed process.

[norteno]

I lucked out. I found an electrical connector unplugged from ABS pump and plugged it back in and ABS light turned off. I really dont know how it came unplugged. I then sucked out all old fluid with baster and wiped out master cylinder with clean rag (it was all black). I refilled with fresh fluid and started blazer up and I got some good pressure on brake pedal. I drove around for 3 blocks and checked and no leaks. Brakes feel OK but still not as firm as normal. I did not try bleeding yet but I noticed brake light on. Will this go out when I bleed brakes and what might cause light to be on? Thanks again for listening and advising.

[old_master]

Sounds like you still have air in there somewhere. This procedure will remove all air that is trapped in the system. Remove the master cylinder cover, fill the master cylinder, leave the cover off, open a bleeder, let it drain for maybe 10 minutes, make sure the stream is clear, (no bubbles) keep the master full. Repeat this for each wheel, doesn't matter what order. Then perform the automated bleed, this will force any trapped air in the ABS unit into the brake lines. Do not open any bleeders while the automated bleed is in progress. When the automated bleed is complete, then use the two person bleed procedure, (not vacuum, not gravity) until no bubbles are present at any of the wheels. By the time it's all said and done, it's not unusual to use a pint of fluid at each wheel.

The parking brake and the proportioning (centering) valve can turn the red "BRAKE" light on. After the system is bled properly, and the proportioning (centering) valve is centered, the light should go off.

[j cAT]

with what you just stated now and before why did you not bleed the brakes? the red brake light should reset when this is done.

[norteno]

jc AT, you are right, Why didn't I bleed them right away. Guess I was just too anxious to get back on the road and get the thing out of my garage and the brakes were pretty decent. I just got done bleeding them and it took a while but air started coming out then fluid and pedal got more firmed up. I drove around and within 2 minutes, the brake light reset and went out just like you said. I want to thank you and oldmaster and scrapper and everyone else who listened and helped me out. This site is great. Now on to replacing driver side fender, grill and bumper. Thanks again!

[j cAT]

Originally Posted by norteno

jc AT, you are right, Why didn't I bleed them right away. Guess I was just too anxious to get back on the road and get the thing out of my garage and the brakes were pretty decent. I just got done bleeding them and it took a while but air started coming out then fluid and pedal got more firmed up. I drove around and within 2 minutes, the brake light reset and went out just like you said. I want to thank you and oldmaster and scrapper and everyone else who listened and helped me out. This site is great. Now on to replacing driver side fender, grill and bumper. Thanks again!

so the brakes are complete . the ABS/brake fluid issues can be confusing at times. contamination usually causes the braking components to act up. bleeding the system at the pad/shoe replacing helps remove the bad fluid from the system. air has water in it this then creates pitting and corrosion in the brake system.

brake fluid according to GM lasts forever. this is not correct. many vehicles have recommended brake fluid replacement intervals to ensure correct ABS operation.

good luck with your vehicle repairs.