Front brakes overhual

[BOX CHEV]

I have a 88 Caprice, its been sitting in the garage for a few months now maybe 5-6. I'm about to pull it out to awake this big hog. Its a very low mileage car(haven't even hit 50k on it yet, all O.G. miles/motor)

I have plans to clean up all the suspension and re-grease whatever needs it. Oil change etc. The usual tune up and flush radiator etc.

Now as far as brakes go(disc brakes specific) I have never done before.

The rotors are not in the best condition so I will be replacing those. Probably could just have them machined but new stock rotors aren't that much, so I'll spend my money on whatever is needed to stop, no skimping. Probably go with semi-metallic brake pads. Should I change the brake hoses for shits and giggles too since I'm there? Anything else I should do besides repack the bearing(BTW how exactly should I go about that)

Did a search the other day on here for "brakes" in caprice section and read a few threads. I've watched a ton of videos on youtube about brake and rotor installation. And I'm decently mechanically inclined, so I'm confident I can take it on. Almost anything needing to be done to my cars I do myself.

Pads and Rotors I been looking at from different places, wondering if anyone has any experience from using any of these parts.

O'Reilly's

Rotor
BrakeBest Select - Brake Rotor And Hub Assembly Part # 5032RGS $36.99 Each

BrakeBest Select - Brake Rotor And Hub Assembly Part # 5040RGS $31.99 Each

Brake Pads
Wagner ThermoQuiet - Brake Pads Part # MX52 $33.99 per Set

Raybestos Professional Grade - Brake Pad Set Part # PGD52M $31.99 Each

AutoZone

Rotor
Duralast/Brake Rotor Part Number: 5546 Price: $49.99

Brake Pads
Pfc Carbon Metalic/Brake Pads - Front Part Number: 0052-20 Price: $22.99

Napa

Rotor
Rotor & Hub Assy - Front - Premium Part Number: NB 4885664 $55.99

Brake Pads
Brake Pads - Front, TruStop - OE Semi-Metallic Part Number: TS TS728AM $21.99

Brake Pads - Front, Ultra Premium - OE Semi-Metallic Part Number: UP UP728AM $45.99

I would like to buy my parts from a local store like one of the places listed above in bold. But if you know of some better quality parts for same price or little more I will buy online. Give part #'s please.

If there is anything else I should grab or missing please say so.

[j cAT]

the hoses if soft should be replaced esp. at the goose neck thermostat top hose . new thermostat ,flush out the heater core. open the engine drain plugs to completely remove all coolant..then refill with 65 % silicone/green type coolant with 35% distilled water.

drain and replace the tranny filter..use the new dexron VI fluid.replace plugs with the platinum type. make sure plug wires are ohmed out for proper resistance.cap/rotor not arcing etc..

wheel bearings you will need 2 new seals. drive out bearings..lube with a good wheel bearing grease..when installing the hub to axle stub the nut should be tighted to about 10 ft lbs then back off till nut is a little loose..then with small pliers tighten nut slightly to the next cotter pin hole..the nut at the time , should be able for you to move with your fingers with some difficulty..if you make this nut tight you will damage the bearing..

I got lifetime warrantee brake rotors and pads at advance auto..2years still good...

I would replacethe rear drums...these are most likely too worn..if the shoes are worn only at the top the drums are too big and need replacing..

use a lithium based grease on all the front end components..EP2...

if you have the positraction rear diff change that gear oil..add the 4 oz of friction modifier only if you have the positraction diff....remove cover and clean out the gear box..

make sure the staibizer bar hardware is not rusted/rubber components damaged...

ya that is a gas guzzler ...low power and a big appetite..

[BOX CHEV]

Thanks j cAT

Yeah this is my second bbody, plan to get another soon(2 door). Nothing out there better

This one is 99% rust free, sat in a garage most its life.

Nothing seems to be worn really, but I know a car that sits for a while the fluids and hoses could be bad. So plans are to flush anything that can be flushed and replace it.

I have driven it a little the summer I bought it, starts up and runs fine even better then my newer cars. Hell the interior is in pristine condition, even that's better then my newer cars Paint has a few parking lot dings other then that its a great car.

I'll check into the bearings, I seen a video where they had these little low profile looking cones and the bearing is in the middle between the cones. Then just use a grease gun to pump in some grease then done. Really necessary to get done, or no? Might pick one up.

[silicon212]

I would definitely opt for the Performance Friction Carbon Metallic pads. I was getting about 2 years out of a set of pads when using the factory style semi-metallics. With the Carbon Metallic pads, last set I purchased was in 2006, and there's still more than half of the pads left. Stopping power is much increased over the factory style pads. Plus, in my experience, they don't wear down the rotors like the factory pads do.

Speaking of rotors, I'd get the new ones if I were doing mine, as well. I have a spare set of new ones here that I bought several years back in anticipation of the biennial overhaul that hasn't happened. Remember, as the original rotors get turned, they are thinner and more susceptible to warpage. Your decision to purchase new rotors is sound.

It wouldn't hurt to replace the three rubber lines, either. One for the back wheels, two up front - one per wheel. Flush out all the old brake fluid and replace with new.

As far as the rear brakes are concerned, they tend to wear at a rate that's about 25% of the front ... meaning ... you do them once for every 4 fronts. Of course, YMMV. You can check for excessive wear on the rears by removing the drum - simply pull it out once you remove the wheel - if the drum hangs, then you definitely have wear, but if not, and the shoes have a decent amount of meat on them, you should be good. If the drum does hang, you can back off the shoes with the adjuster screw - you will see an oval slot (may have a rubber plug on it) near the bottom of the back support panel. Use a screwdriver to spin the adjuster until you can pull the drum off. If the adjuster stops, and the drum is held tight, turn the adjuster the other direction.

Definitely agree with jcat pertaining to the front wheel bearings. Use a high temperature grease, don't use the cheap stuff unless you want to be doing this again in the not too distant future.

[j cAT]

Originally Posted by BOX CHEV

Thanks j cAT



I'll check into the bearings, I seen a video where they had these little low profile looking cones and the bearing is in the middle between the cones. Then just use a grease gun to pump in some grease then done. Really necessary to get done, or no? Might pick one up.

I use a piece of hard wood to drive out the front wheel bearings. I do not mess with the races. then wash the bearings in paint thinner mineral spirits. I prefer the low odor type. then wipe and dry use a hair dryer to speed this drying..then with your hands work the grease into these bearings.. then install the bearings with the new seal..follow my instructions on the nut install..

do not spin the bearings rapidly with no grease on them ..

place the bearings in the same place they were as removed inner to inner/outer to outer...

my 96 impala this is done at 30,ooomi. intervals. this is usually done at every brake pad servicing ..30-50,ooomi.

[Blt2Lst]

Originally Posted by silicon212

I would definitely opt for the Performance Friction Carbon Metallic pads.

These are my choice also, can't beat them for $23.00, I paid close to $60 last time I got a set.

[DeltaP]

The Raybestos pads are a good choice. I get good results with em. Performance Friction's are good too. They run alot cooler, wear better but you better have perfect or new rotors to put them on. Same for Ceramic pads that most OEM's are using now. Nothing stops better for the buck than semi metallic linings but at a cost of alot of wear on your rotors.
I agree on the rear brakes. They merely keep the car straight unless you're hauling alot of weight in the trunk all the time. If you're gonna do the rear brakes ya might as well go all the way and change the hardeware too. Springs, retainers, self adjuster kits are all available at most auto parts stores. Just remember theres a right and left to the hardeware kits and only pull apart one wheel at a time on the rears so you have a standing model of how these parts interlink and what goes where!
If the fluid comes out black when you flush its a good indication that the rubber parts, ( hoses,o-rings,seals,cylinder cups, etc), are deteriorating.Ya might need to make a decision there.
Make sure you inspect the wheel bearings after you wash and dry them. Good advice on not spinning them dry. It'll ruin them and they can come apart! If they're discolored or blue or pitted then replace them. But you'll have to knock out the races from the hubs and replace them too. ( bearings are sold in sets). Or have it done for ya. Make sure you use a brass punch when doing this as the bearing steel is very hard but brittle and can shatter and slice into ya. (long story attached to that one, trust me). Let's all assume you're wearing eye protection when doing this!!
You can remove the thermostat, put the gooseneck housing back on with RTV silicone sealer temporarily and flush the system with a quality flush like Prestone's per the mfg's instructions and then a coupla more times. Don't forget to turn on the heater to full hot so the heater core gets flushed too. I wouldnt bother with the block drains. Ya might open up a can of worms you're not ready for. Then replace the thermostat and gasket, inspect the gooseneck housing for excessive pitting, it can be replaced also if needed. Replace all the hoses and them crappy original clamps. Don't forget the heater hoses. They're inexpensive, straight hose bought by the foot.
Wipe your finger inside the radiator, see what ya come up with. If its all orange or brown then ya might want to get the radiator flushed or "rodded out" at a radiator shop.
Refill the cooling system with 50/50% glycol, (green), antifreeze is the most economical choice after all this has been done. Then dont make the mistake most do.... replace the radiator cap!
The platinum plugs are worth the money. They'll be the last set of plugs you put in that engine! Change the secondary cables too! (spark plug wires). Have fun and I hope this helps.

[j cAT]

Originally Posted by DeltaP

I wouldnt bother with the block drains. Ya might open up a can of worms you're not ready for. .

since I am very familiar with the 305 cu in this vehicle the removal of the engine drain plug on each side is a no brainer..also I never found any can of worms.

doing this with a cold engine is very easy and safe.

removal of the heater hoses at the engine and then using a water hose to revse fwd flush out the heater core work well.

this also reduces coolant capture.. since this must be properly disposed.

[DeltaP]

Thats very nice for you. Yeah that oughtta reduce coolant capture since most of it'll get spilled when he removes the heater hoses from the engine! Sounds like extra work. I've overhauled enough engines to know that these plugs often break or strip out the castings. Not saying it should never be done but ya need to be prepared to deal with that possibility. Theres very little to be gained by this on a cold engine. Since most of the crap is in the bottom tank of the radiator. If ya haven't found any worms ya haven't dug deep enough!

[j cAT]

Originally Posted by DeltaP

Thats very nice for you. Yeah that oughtta reduce coolant capture since most of it'll get spilled when he removes the heater hoses from the engine! Sounds like extra work. I've overhauled enough engines to know that these plugs often break or strip out the castings. Not saying it should never be done but ya need to be prepared to deal with that possibility. Theres very little to be gained by this on a cold engine. Since most of the crap is in the bottom tank of the radiator. If ya haven't found any worms ya haven't dug deep enough!

first thing you drain the radiator. then you drain the engine. one plug on each side..then you remove the heater hoses and blow out any coolant traped. now all the coolant is gone , engine cold
, no evironmental goo to get into the little animals...

with the coolant all captured and contained the engine cold you remove the thermostat and with all the drain plugs open flush out the engine at the goose neck where the thermostat was..then flush out the heater core. now its all cleaned no old dirty coolant traped in the heatercore or block...

since I keep my vehicles for a couple of decades and a few hundred thousand miles I know this stuff ...I know this works !..

especially this type engine...

you are correct that some engines this would be very difficult..possibly impossible..but not this vintage engine.

[BOX CHEV]

What's going on fellas?

Well just to bump this up. Back when I made this thread I had intentions of getting to work on the brakes. But been out of town on work and now I'm back and got right to it with the car.

Today got it jacked up and on jack stands, removed both wheels. Working on passenger side first.

-Removed the caliper bolts and caliper
-Removed the old brake pads, put one of the brake pads back into the caliper and compressed the piston back in all the way with a C-clamp
-Removed the cotter pin *I will replace with a new one*
-Removed the wheel bearing nut
-Removed the washer
-Removed the first front bearing
-Pulled the rotors off
-Back bearing and Seal are still in the back of the rotor
-Removed the dust shield *mine is bent up for some reason on the bottom side so I will be going to the yard to try and pull better condition one, might even get fancy and paint it and the calipers *
-Left the last seal still on the spindle

Quick shot of parts laid out that were removed





Now

I will be going with

-Performance Friction Carbon Metallic Brake pads Part# 0154.20 $59.99 @O'Reilly's

-Raybestos Rotors Part# 5064R $87.96 @JCwhitney

-So I need to replace the seal that's on the spindle behind the dust plate, replace the seal for the back wheel bearing on the back side of the rotors. And that should be all the seals I need correct?

-Should I remove all bearing and clean with paint thinner mineral spirits as suggested before. Inspect if they are good, if so just repack with grease and reuse them. Or should I just buy new ones? If so any suggestions for U.S. Made bearings by any chance. Don't want any Chinese junk parts.

I think that should be it, installation should be pretty simple for everything else. Can't believe I used to pay to have this crap done.

[j cAT]

with a 1.25 inch square piece of wood drive out the bearings . clean with mineral spirits and if posssible blow dry with air . then work bearing grease into the cleaned bearings and install. use new seals.

using a piece of wood you can drive in the seals.

the heat shield just needs some hammer work and paint.

when installing the hub nut torque to 40 fts. then back off until its loose then using a small wrench tighten the nut slightly then back off to the next cotter pin hole ...the nut should be slightly snug not tight. better if the nut is loose than too tight. check rotor that it spins freely and is rotating with no lateral movements.

use some silicone grease on the rubber cal pin sliders.

coat the brake pads backing steel with some anti sieze. make sure the pads fit good not too tight. if too tight file the edges and remove any stamping burrs as these will lock up the pads.

using some 200 grit sand paper scratch the rotor surface in a circular direction . this will cause the pads to seat quickly. wipe the disc down with mineral spirts also.

on removal of the calipers / brake pads always open the bleed screw then slowly push back the pistons. work one side at a time.



the cal pistons have damaged dirty fluid in them .. pushing this fluid into the Abs IS AN EXPENSIVE MISTAKE.

USING A TORQUE WRENCH secure the lug nuts to 90ft lbs. re-torque after a short ride. make sure no lube on the lug nut hardware.


the brake pads last used look like cheap crap.

[Tech II]

Easy way to get rear seal and bearing out.....remove rotor.....install spindle nut, and then just put rotor over the nut, so the nut is against the inside of the bearing....then give the rotor a tug outward and the bear/seal comes right off....

I use a bearing packing tool to fill bearing with grease.....

As the guys have said, follow the procedure for tightening the spindle nut(rotating the rotor as you do so)......the nut CAN'T BE TIGHT, because these bearings expand as they heat up......

[BOX CHEV]

Originally Posted by Tech II

Easy way to get rear seal and bearing out.....remove rotor.....install spindle nut, and then just put rotor over the nut, so the nut is against the inside of the bearing....then give the rotor a tug outward and the bear/seal comes right off....

Thanks, I did just that. Bearing came out, however the seal stayed in there

Nevertheless I got the rear bearing out.

I think I'm going to go ahead and replace the calipers as well when I do the hoses.

Then I will move onto the back drums. Any particular drum brake pads you guys like?

[Blt2Lst]

When you get to the rear brakes, you should also replace the wheel cylinders while it is apart. Over time they can leak and if they do, brake fluid will contaminate your brake shoes causing loss of rear brakes.