Front brakes overhual

[BOX CHEV]

Just to be sure, what are you guys torquing your caliper bolts too??

[j cAT]

Originally Posted by BOX CHEV

Just to be sure, what are you guys torquing your caliper bolts too??

caliper sliding pin bolts are 38ft LBS.

[BOX CHEV]

Okay thanks.

Still haven't dropped the car down yet. Resting on stands till I finish up other things. Wanted to be sure. I must be illiterate cause I didn't see anywhere in haynes manual what torque specs were.

[j cAT]

Originally Posted by BOX CHEV

Okay thanks.

Still haven't dropped the car down yet. Resting on stands till I finish up other things. Wanted to be sure. I must be illiterate cause I didn't see anywhere in haynes manual what torque specs were.

those manuals are a rip off. I bought one for an older vehicle . they are missing lots of common important info.

you get what you pay for.

when you buy a new vehicle it should come with a DVD having all the spec's and repair info/proceedures.

[BOX CHEV]

Yeah this manual is pretty much a joke. Some sections at least get me going.

DVD would be great! You know money see money do ha!

Need to go shopping for some new tires. I always seem to go with cheap goodyears cause I hardly kept cars too long. http://www.walmart.com/ip/Goodyear-V...-75R15/1819187

But don't have plans of selling this one yet, think I will daily drive it this summer so in market for something little better. Only thing I deal with here is rain and hot summers.

[BOX CHEV]

Who sells backing plates for these cars? For the drums. My shoe contact points are a lil worn down don't ya think? Weird for a car with such low original miles. Only a few look like this, others seem fine so far.



Was at Autozone and O'Reilys and neither of them have it. Drove over to napa too. They didn't even know what I was talking about.

Or I heard of people welding them up and then grinding them back down a little. Not sure how much someone would charge for that. I can grind them back down myself.

[silicon212]

Don't know what you're seeing in this, but that looks perfectly normal to me. Those, btw, are junkyard/dealership items.

[j cAT]

can't see what your talking about. the steel looks pretty good/not much rust . where the shoe touches the plate it will get worn slightly . what I think I am seeing is not much to affect anything.

[BOX CHEV]

Okay I thought the contact point was worn down maybe. Never seen them look like that cause majority of the other contact points are pretty solid looking.

[j cAT]

Originally Posted by BOX CHEV

Okay I thought the contact point was worn down maybe. Never seen them look like that cause majority of the other contact points are pretty solid looking.

I put a dab of anti sieze compound on the contact points usually. the plate having some wear is not a problem. if heavy rusted and has holes then you have a problem.

make sure the shoes are worn evenly top to bottom side to side. if not replace drums.

[BOX CHEV]

Yeah I made sure I put some anti seize on there.. Been driving around for a while. Brake pedal is a little too soft for me. I have to push down all the way to get any kinda brakes.

I need to adjust the rear drums better and bleed the system again. Don't think I did a good enough job the first time.

[j cAT]

Originally Posted by BOX CHEV

Yeah I made sure I put some anti seize on there.. Been driving around for a while. Brake pedal is a little too soft for me. I have to push down all the way to get any kinda brakes.

I need to adjust the rear drums better and bleed the system again. Don't think I did a good enough job the first time.

did you replace the drums ?

if the shoes were worn at the top mostly the drums are too big. if the ridge on the drum edge of the shoe braking surface is enough to prevent drum removal with the shoes adjusted the drum is to worn.

the radius of the new shoes is not matching the radius of the worn drum, which is now larger.

make sure the self adjusters are lubed and working. if the front end dips when braking the rears are not doing much brake effort.

if you buy new drums make sure you wash with mineral spirits to remove any oils/protective coatings. give the friction surface a light scratching in an orbital dirction with 200 grit. this helps seat the friction material faster with no glazing.

check that the park brake is not interfering with proper adjustment. if this has been adjusted to compensate for worn shoes/drums you will need to back off the adjustment to properly adjust the shoes.

when bleeding have the pumper person pump the brake pedal slowly. rapid pumping will cause aiir bubbles and a soft pedal.

old fluid compresses poorly. bleed a good amount . if the res. fluid is dark, suck out and replace with clean fluid.