just wont run right!!!!! 2001 cylinder 4 misfire

[danielsatur]

Originally Posted by danielsatur

You can borrow a compression testor from any Auto Parts store for a small deposit.

1) Try to isolate noise to bank 1 (cylinders 1-4), or bank 2 (cylinders 5-8).
2) A Local muffler shop can do a back pressure test on your catalytic converters.

Physical cylinder assignment-
Tran
4 8
3 7
2 6
1 5
FAN

The Lincoln LS & Jaguar S type are like bad sisters!

see http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=954555

Do a compression test on cylinders 5-8 (bank2), it sounds like bent valves, because of a bad secondary cam chain tensioner.

The DTC's will tell you the valves on which cylinder! P0305,P0306,P0307, and P0308.
If it's just #7 isolate the injector wire, and cop connector going to that cylinder.

[34Ford]

How many times do you guys let the compression hit the meter?

Briefly I got,

1=190
2=195
3=180
4=185
5=190
6=195
7=180
8=190

[34Ford]

Oh this sounds so much like mine.

http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/showthread.php?t=59886

[danielsatur]

Hey!
The compression looks good, so it may just be a rattle in the secondary cam chain tensioner.
What's the deal with alum tape on your Air tube from the valve cover to your Air duct work?
Unmetered air will cause problems!

[34Ford]

Yea, Im going to order the secondary tensioners.

Im thinking these.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=350312408299

Dont suppose auto parts stores have them.

[danielsatur]

Don't forget to get new spark plug boss seals and valve cover gaskets.

[Scrapper]

Originally Posted by bradw18

at a idle you can feel the car misfiring. but when your driving you dont really feel it. and the exaust smells a little rich.

have you rualed out the egr since your saying burns rich?

[34Ford]

Originally Posted by danielsatur

Don't forget to get new spark plug boss seals and valve cover gaskets.

Yea, thought I would pick those up locally. This thing has had the valve cover gaskets replaced twice on it since we've owned it.
Last time it was 700 bucks for dealer to do them. I really dread the drivers side with all the hoses.

Will take pics as the job goes. Just hope I dont find more problems with the primaries and chains.

[danielsatur]

1) When you do this job, leave the primary cam to crank timing alone.
2) Lift the secondary cam without losing cam to cam timing and sneak the new secondary cam chain tensioner in.

[34Ford]

Gotcha. Secondary cam only.


Whats the premium valve cover gaskets to get, and where?

The parts stores are showing Felpros.

[danielsatur]

I got mine from http://www.autopartswarehouse.com , they were Felpro.

This car doesn't have an EGR valve, so that's one less problem.

I still don't think that Aluminum tape around the Air tube from the Air Intake duct work going to the valve cover might be giving a lean/rich condition, because of unmetered air leaks.

[joegr]

Originally Posted by danielsatur

I got mine from http://www.autopartswarehouse.com , they were Felpro.

This car doesn't have an EGR valve, so that's one less problem.

I still don't think that Aluminum tape around the Air tube from the Air Intake duct work going to the valve cover might be giving a lean/rich condition, because of unmetered air leaks.

The V8 doesn't have a PCV valve, but it does have an EGR valve.

[34Ford]

Well.................found the noise.
And let me say what a pain in the to get down to the right valve cover.
Lets just say the garage last Saturday was not a happy place.
And one damn screw in particular!

As you diy'ers can see, the tensioner lost its upper slide.
Notice where the chain started to eat into the block.

[34Ford]

Originally Posted by danielsatur

1) When you do this job, leave the primary cam to crank timing alone.
2) Lift the secondary cam without losing cam to cam timing and sneak the new secondary cam chain tensioner in.

So where do I look to make sure I dont screw up the timing, or do I just make a mark and be sure to go back the same way?
Oh btw, whats the recommended torque on the cam bolts?

[danielsatur]

Originally Posted by 34Ford

So where do I look to make sure I dont screw up the timing, or do I just make a mark and be sure to go back the same way?
Oh btw, whats the recommended torque on the cam bolts?

Caution -
1) Put some clean shop towels in the timing chain cover, so you don't lose any bolts, or nuts.
2) Get a torgue wrench, and check the bottom cam bolts for torgue befor removing.
3) Remove all the bolts on the lower cam.
4) Remove the bolts holding the secondary cam chain tensioner.
5) Lift the lower cam and keep a little tension on secondary chain, so you don't lose the cam to cam timing.
6) Remove the old secondary cam chain tensioner, and slide the new one in.
7) Put the lower cam back in.
8) Torque the bolts for the tensioner.
9) Torque the bolts for the secondary cam.

I'am sorry about torque specs, because my http://www.alldata.com has expired.

LOL - You should do a AF - YouTube video for this procedure, it usually takes me 2 1/2hrs.