1996 Dodge Grand Caravan LE AC/Heater Blower, Relay and Resistor Block Problems 101

[eckelbee]

I went online and ordered part 5019189-AA, Resistor 8035022 from http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...?siteid=213674. The part costed 12.94 plus 7.00 for s/h. When the part arrived I was surprised that it did not look like the resistor block in the front but the solid state looking device I found in the back. I plugged in the new part and it worked at all three speed settings.

Now this was for the 2001 Grand Caravan aft blower. I can get pictures if you would like. Also the Mopar website was really good as far as parts and prices as far as I could tell.

Thanks for pointing me in the correct general direction.

[HeadlessHorseman1]

Originally Posted by eckelbee

I went online and ordered part 5019189-AA, Resistor 8035022 from http://www.trademotion.com. The part costed 12.94 plus 7.00 for s/h. When the part arrived I was surprised that it did not look like the resistor block in the front but the solid state looking device I found in the back. I plugged in the new part and it worked at all three speed settings.

Now this was for the 2001 Grand Caravan aft blower. I can get pictures if you would like. Also the Mopar website was really good as far as parts and prices as far as I could tell.

Thanks for pointing me in the correct general direction.

That's great, eck! Glad it helped. Do you know how much money you saved by doing it yourself? Thank you for the part details and web site info. If you wouldn't mind putting up some pictures, that would be really good. This procedure covers only the front blower, but someone, somewhere, sooner or later will read through the procedure and all the posts looking for hints on the rear blower (probably have already). Thanks for taking time, getting back and posting... posts like yours have helped make this one of the HOTTEST thread on AutomotiveForums.com! (MOST posts, MOST views and a five-star rating in the Caravan/Voyager forum!)

[91cabernetcaravan]

Originally Posted by 91cabernetcaravan

WHoa! Great. Thanks, Stevo2!
Very interesting. This safety feature is nowhere mentioned in the manuals I have. Okay, I have enough to move forward now.
As I mentioned before, I'm not much of a weekend mechanic compared to you guys, but I will make an attempt to trace down issue as best I can in my garage. If I find out anything of interest, I'll drop in here again.

You know, this is fun. A good practical learning experience, if nothing else.
Thanks for being here, guys, and thanks for the feedback. I will follow up.

Neil in Tujunga

Well, hey gang! Months have passed since my last visit and I received a pleasant surprise today.
My cabernet caravan got a little overheated on my way to my mechanic's shop, which was strange since I just had major work done two weeks prior. New radiator and hoses etc.
Also, it's been hot as hell around here lately -- heh, July in L.A., who'd a thunk it?? -- so I did run my A/C, lame as it is with the popping and vibrating flappers.
Can you see this one coming?
SUrprise!! My Heater Valve -- the original equipment on a car with -- are you sitting down? -- 223,442 miles on the odometer -- finally completely failed.
For a few clams, my mechanic replaced it -- and -- DOUBLE SURPRISE!! -- now my A/C works swimmingly!http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...es/grinyes.gif

So my problem was a leaky valve that was progressively failing over the years. These valves are all plastic. Day after day, heating and cooling, expanding and contracting, over a very long time the plastic became brittle and cracked. So it leaked causing the A/C issue I mentioned months ago here in this very forum.

When my mechanic handed me the culprit you could easily see how far gone the unit was. What is amazing though, is how long it kept trying to do the job before finally giving up the ghost. It was ORIGINAL equipment, sixteen years. I still say it now. I think Chrysler/Dodge makes great stuff!

Thanks -- everyone here -- for all of your helpful information. You turned a minor annoyance into an educational and enlightening experience. THAT is what the internet is all about, IMHO.
Hope my experience here will help someone else with a similar issue.

Neil in Tujunga
July 2007http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/images/smilies/cheers.gif

[airpoff]

Originally Posted by Robin Hood

Got it fixed. It was the Resistor block. In the 1999 model you can't see it from the glove box. Too many obstructions. Oh, and the replacement cost is no longer $14, the bugger was $30 + tax at the dealer. Thanks for all the tips, the wife is happy, for now.

can you tell me where you bought the resistor block. the Auto Zone doesnt know what it is? please help

[HeadlessHorseman1]

Originally Posted by airpoff

can you tell me where you bought the resistor block. the Auto Zone doesnt know what it is? please help

I don't think that Autozone stocks a part like that... at least the Autozone in my town doesn't. You have to go to a Chrysler/Dodge/Plymouth dealer or RockAuto.Com. There may me other places I do not know about. Anyway, my original post tells you where you get all the parts you need. For the Resistor Block, my original post goes like this:

Resistor Block:
OEM=by my Dodge dealer was $16USD which includes 6% CT state sales tax);
http://www.RockAuto.Com - Standard Motor Products Part=RU93 ($15.40 + $5.63 Shipping)
NOTE 1: OEM Part# for the 2001 Caravan is 4885583-AB RESISTOR 8035022 (Thank you Parky50!)
NOTE 2: OEM Part# for the 2005 Caravan is 4885583AC.
(Thank you pwilliams517 at http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showthread...ed=1#post865984 )

Good Luck!

[airpoff]

Originally Posted by HeadlessHorseman1

I don't think that Autozone stocks a part like that... at least the Autozone in my town doesn't. You have to go to a Chrysler/Dodge/Plymouth dealer or RockAuto.Com. There may me other places I do not know about. Anyway, my original post tells you where you get all the parts you need. For the Resistor Block, my original post goes like this:

Resistor Block:
OEM=by my Dodge dealer was $16USD which includes 6% CT state sales tax);
http://www.RockAuto.Com - Standard Motor Products Part=RU93 ($15.40 + $5.63 Shipping)
NOTE 1: OEM Part# for the 2001 Caravan is 4885583-AB RESISTOR 8035022 (Thank you Parky50!)
NOTE 2: OEM Part# for the 2005 Caravan is 4885583AC.
(Thank you pwilliams517 at http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showthread...ed=1#post865984 )

Good Luck!

well i found the blower resistor at O"Rielly auto for 12:00$ and it fixed the blower speeds but not the recerculat button(spell check).also I found out the prob with the recirculation button. I need the recirculation air door actuator, located below the blower motor. I can tap on it and it will start working.

[HeadlessHorseman1]

Originally Posted by airpoff

well i found the blower resistor at O"Rielly auto for 12:00$ and it fixed the blower speeds but not the recerculat button(spell check).also I found out the prob with the recirculation button. I need the recirculation air door actuator, located below the blower motor. I can tap on it and it will start working.

There is a reprogramming procedure that may fix that problem, but I do not know what that is for your model year. It has something to do with pressing certain buttons on the dash panel together to start the routine. Sorry, but you will have to find that information some place else. Again, Good Luck!

[egc519mzl]

I want to thank you guys for creating and keeping this thread. It is a great help. HeadlessHorseman1. Thanks to you.

My blower only ran at hi-speed. I replaced the resistor I bought from Autozone and it is working now. I didn't have to push it out from the glove compartment, though. I used a wide-mouth plier and tried to pull it out from the engine compartment.

[HeadlessHorseman1]

Originally Posted by egc519mzl

I want to thank you guys for creating and keeping this thread. It is a great help. HeadlessHorseman1. Thanks to you.

My blower only ran at hi-speed. I replaced the resistor I bought from Autozone and it is working now. I didn't have to push it out from the glove compartment, though. I used a wide-mouth plier and tried to pull it out from the engine compartment.

Congratulations egc... you probably saved yourself $100 by doing this repair yourself... money that's better in your pocket than in Chrysler's

[egc519mzl]

I definitely did. Aside from that, I had a peace of mind that only that piece was replaced. Lastly, I had fun and learned more.

Thanks again...

[fastclock]

Thank you for the wealth of information in the forum and especially in this thread. I have a 1999 Plymouth Grand Voyager SE which has the blower working only on the high speed. Therefore, it's the blower resistor fault. I'm pretty much a newbie in the mechanics dept, so pls be patient.

I've disconnected the neg battery, and proceed to dislodge the blower resistor from the wall using the screwdriver, by pressing on the springs. So, it's loose now. However, the thing didn't want to come out after a couple of inches. It's inhibited by the tight space in-between the top of the strut tower and the bottom of the wiper block. There is also the AC pipe in front of it which block easy access to it.

My question: 1) what is the easiest way to take out the blower resistor then... Is it possible to force it out, or should I remove other part to take it out?

Thank you for your patience. I can also try including a picture if that would help.

Close view:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/12959620@N08/1341006399/

Longer view:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/12959620@N08/1341894004/

Under the hood:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/12959620@N08/1341006621/

[fastclock]

I'm done replacing the blower motor resistor, and now the blower has all the speed settings Got help from my father in law

So, after setting the AC pipe aside, it is still a struggle to pull out the resistor through the space in between the strut tower and the wiper block, but it can be done. I took out the wiring + resistor, and then pull out the wiring from the old resistor, put in the wiring on the new resistor ($13.60 from the dealer).

I clip the left bottom part of the board support of the resistor, this helps a lot in inserting the new set back on the firewall.

And finally, the rusted resistor:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/12959620@N08/1346032847/

[2001es]

I have a problem with my 2001 GC es.. The A/C blower will run when the ignition switch to ON and the Power botton is OFF anf it runs on high speed...If you push the recirculating botton the speed of the fan changes to high and low speed....Ive checked the relay and and the resistor and its ok they are in good shaped...
BTW, i removed the two connectors behind the climate control and the fan still running.. The fan speed is nt working as i have said it is running on one speed....no low,med,high...
Anyway \, anyone could relate the problem i have will highly appreciated...
Thank you..

[Gervais8]

My fan was only working on high. I replaced the resistor and it worked on all speeds for a week, maybe. Now there's no fan at all. Also, the green a/c button will stay on even if the fan is off. If I have the fan turned off or even if the fan is turned on you can feel cool air coming through the vents but it's not blowing. The recirculate button is off but if you push it on you get no air at all from the front vents. The rear air works fine. I looked up underneath the glove box and felt around. The areas underneath were really cold from the a/c I assume. Can someone help with suggestions?

[Dchall_San_Antonio]

Ahhhhh! Life's classic issues, and their solutions, are truly a thing of beauty to behold. My highest praise goes to you, Headlesshorseman, for your efforts in bringing a solution to so many of us. And certainly thanks to the other contributors. With all the models and versions, it would be very expensive for one person to learn all there is to know about this topic. You gotta love the Internet.

I just bought my second used Dodge Grand Caravan, a 2000 LE with 118,000 miles. I have been on hiatus from the DGC world since 2005 when my wife suddenly tired of our 96 in favor of a Mazda Tribute (if anyone has questions about that trade, I have some comments). My Honda finally got totaled after two previous attempts to wreck it, so I picked up the 2000 DGC near Ft Worth last weekend. I had forgotten about the fan motor problem until all the way to today (one week and just over 1,000 more miles). Well, I was expecting a car with issues, so...no problem.

I already went through this on the 96. Back then it was my wife's car and it had to be fixed immediately, so I spent the $400 to replace everything all at once. Since they replaced everything, I can't know for sure what was wrong. But now it is my car and I can do it myself (thanks to this classic post). I'll probably change the resistor block next weekend and go from there.