Evap Code

[old_master]

Work on one problem at a time. Make sure the fuel leak is repaired. Then clear the DTC's and perform a drive cycle http://www.obdii.com/drivecycle.html to make sure no other DTC's pop up. Then select "I/M Readiness" on a scan tool, it will show the status of each monitor. Make sure all monitors have completed their tests. If/when the P0440 comes back, we can deal with diagnosing and repairing it.

[JLKINSER1970]

Well I put in the new O rings and washers and retainers in the fuel rail and re-set my check engine light. Crossing my fingers this will fix my problem. Will drive it around for a few days and let you know if the evap code comes back on. I did find out by accident that I did have the reatainer on backwards. I had the opening for the lagre line on the small side and the one for the small on the large side. At least I think I did. It kept leaking and when I turned the retainer around it stopped.

Now my power sterring pump is going bad. The bearing is making a growling when I am turning left. It is a continous growl as long as I am turning left. Really loud

[old_master]

The fuel line leak has nothing to do with the EVAP DTC. Let us know what happens and we can help you diagnose the EVAP system.

[JLKINSER1970]

Originally Posted by old_master

The fuel line leak has nothing to do with the EVAP DTC. Let us know what happens and we can help you diagnose the EVAP system.

Let me ask you this. I always go to Autozone or Advance when my light comes on because I don't have a scanner. Can I rent one if/when my light comes back on that will give me a live reading of what sensor(s) may be causing this or is it hit and miss?

If it warms up in the next day or two I plan on getting underneath and see if I can trace the vac line on the gas tank and see what it looks like.

When I replace my Power Sterring pump I plan on doing the ball joints because they are popping. Any on-line parts stores you suggest for high quaility parts?

[JLKINSER1970]

Originally Posted by old_master

The fuel line leak has nothing to do with the EVAP DTC. Let us know what happens and we can help you diagnose the EVAP system.

Oh, by the way, thanks again for the diagram and instructions! They were excellent help!

[old_master]

When they retrieve the DTC's, if their scan tool will access "Freeze Frame" data, that MIGHT help locate the problem. P0440, (EVAP Emission Control System Malfunction) is one of the more difficult DTC's to diagnose. The diagnostic flow chart in the GM shop manual is 4 pages long! If it sets the DTC again, which it probably will, let me know and I can scan and email the flow chart to you.

[JLKINSER1970]

Originally Posted by old_master

When they retrieve the DTC's, if their scan tool will access "Freeze Frame" data, that MIGHT help locate the problem. P0440, (EVAP Emission Control System Malfunction) is one of the more difficult DTC's to diagnose. The diagnostic flow chart in the GM shop manual is 4 pages long! If it sets the DTC again, which it probably will, let me know and I can scan and email the flow chart to you.

That would be a tremendous help Old Master. All I have is the Hayes and it is very limited.

I forgot to add that when I was fixing the fuel line issue that I noticed a canister that is on my hood that has nothing going to it but when I felt on the back it did have some places for some type of tubeing. Is this the charcoal canaster? If it is it has been by-passed.

Thanks!!!

John

[old_master]

The "ball" under the hood is a vacuum reservoir for HVAC & 4WD. Should have a vacuum line connected to it. There might be a vacuum diagram on a sticker somewhere in the engine compartment.

[JLKINSER1970]

Originally Posted by old_master

The "ball" under the hood is a vacuum reservoir for HVAC & 4WD. Should have a vacuum line connected to it. There might be a vacuum diagram on a sticker somewhere in the engine compartment.

I will have to take a look for the sticker.

I took it for a ride on the interstate for the first time since I had rebuilt the engine and man, it wasn't pretty. The road noise was so loud I couldn't hear my GPS. It has a real bad loud humming that I am assuming is the wheel hubs. Now my gas milage on the interstate was like 13 mpg and it felt lilke I was pushing against it the whole time like it was holding back. It isn't the engine that was holding back it felt like my wheels were. Now if my hubs are bad will this cause this as well as the bad mpg?

[old_master]

Could be a bearing/hub or it could be brakes dragging. Jack it up and put the trans in neutral, wheels should all spin freely.

[JLKINSER1970]

Originally Posted by old_master

When they retrieve the DTC's, if their scan tool will access "Freeze Frame" data, that MIGHT help locate the problem. P0440, (EVAP Emission Control System Malfunction) is one of the more difficult DTC's to diagnose. The diagnostic flow chart in the GM shop manual is 4 pages long! If it sets the DTC again, which it probably will, let me know and I can scan and email the flow chart to you.

Hey Old Master, the light kick on again like you said it would. But I did notice this time that when I got out there is a gas smell under the Bravada right under the drivers door. I smelled around the engine carpartment and back around the gas tank filler tube and didn't notice any smells. So if you could send me the flow chart I would appreciate it.

Oh, by the way, the sticker for the vac. line for the ball attached on the hood is gone. Do you have a diagram for that also?

I did find out I had a bad front hub. Also found out while I was under the truck that the steering components are shot. They are all worn and loose so I ordered me some new ones as well as new ball joints. Figured if I was going to be that deep into it might as well replace everything.

[JLKINSER1970]

I crawled under the Bravada today on the drivers side and found two hoses. One had a broken piece of plastic tubing in it and the other had a clamp. Both hoses were hanging and the one smelled of gas. I didn't see any electrical harness or connectors to plug anything into so I put the two tubes together and reset the evap code. Is there suppose to be any valves or sensors here?

[old_master]

Along the left frame rail are 3 lines: The 3/8" line is fuel pressure to the injectors. The 5/16" line is fuel return back to the fuel tank. The 1/4" line is fuel vapor from the canister purge vent valve, (near the fuel tank) to the EVAP purge solenoid, (near the ignition coil). If that line leaks, it will most definitely cause EVAP DTC's!