No dash gauges, but dash lights

[coalminer]

Im dealing with this same issue myself, the exception being that the transmission is shifting ok ( I just have to use my GPS so I know how fast I am going ). I have replaced the cluster, and fixed the solder joints just to make sure, there was one time I used my foot while I was driving to hit something by the BCM that caused the gauges to come back up and work for a few seconds, then they all went back down except for the tach, then it dropped. I am leaning towards where the CCD bus wires come together and then split up to go to the different systems. Im just not sure where that splice is, going to tear into it tonight and see if I can find it.


By the way the one I am working on is a 1997 Grand Voyager with 365,000 miles on it, great driving van, just need to figure out this wierd issue.....

[82Stang]

Actually, my tranny works fine too. I'm not 100% sure about the lower gear change. I don't really drive it lately.

From what I was told, there are two grounds, one above the alternator and one coming from the neg battery cable. I cleaned both, but knew it wouldn't change anything. The two plugs under the battery tray were also checked. One looked like the acid ate through on the side of the plug, but upon close inspection the plug and contacts looked fine.

The most frustrating part about this is that I can't reproduce the intermittent dash. Might be worth a shot just to throw another BCM in and see what's what. Also have some diagnostics about the CCD bus to check.

[82Stang]

Originally Posted by coalminer

I am leaning towards where the CCD bus wires come together and then split up to go to the different systems. Im just not sure where that splice is, going to tear into it tonight and see if I can find it.

If you do find it, please let me know where. I have a feeling i'll need to check that too.

[coalminer]

Originally Posted by 82Stang

If you do find it, please let me know where. I have a feeling i'll need to check that too.

Well, that splice is in a place that you have to tear the dash completely apart to get to, it is directly behind the cluster, but to get to it, that entire part of the dash with the pass side airbag has to come out.

Im back to the BCM, I have a used one on order, that should be here today, the splice looked ok, but I cut all the wires and put them back together(I hope they work ok like that....)

I was told that the mileage is not in the BCM though, only on the engine computer, I hope that is the case, as they will not program a BCM. I will let you know what happens....

[82Stang]

Originally Posted by coalminer

Well, that splice is in a place that you have to tear the dash completely apart to get to, it is directly behind the cluster, but to get to it, that entire part of the dash with the pass side airbag has to come out.

Im back to the BCM, I have a used one on order, that should be here today, the splice looked ok, but I cut all the wires and put them back together(I hope they work ok like that....)

I was told that the mileage is not in the BCM though, only on the engine computer, I hope that is the case, as they will not program a BCM. I will let you know what happens....

Well, about a week ago I got another BCM out of the boneyard and tried it. No change again. So, I repulled the cluster and reheated the solder points, only this time I went on it a second time with a shot of solder over each to be absolutely sure. No change there again. Mine has to be a wiring type issue.

Some diagnostic papers I received have steps to take, but an interesting thing I noticed. On the very last step, the diagram splits. One cause is the BCM, the other is the junction/fuse block. I didn't think of the junction block. But I have to remove the BCM once again, in order to check the junction block. It says to remove the BCM, turn ignition on and check cavity 9 of the junction block. If it is 10v or higher, the BCM is bad. If it is below 10v, the junction block is bad. I already know the BCM is ok, so one last thing for me is to make sure about the junction block. Funny thing is, it all looks immaculate in there. No corrosion, nothing, as if it were just rolled off the line.

[Spit]

Have you tried another dashboard/instrument cluster? to see if the gauges work?
I suppose that there is a chance that the board itself has a crack in it..causing a break a foil track on the board. I had a microwave oven once that had a shorted control board...had to solder on a wire bridge across the broken tracks. then it worked fine.

Spit

[82Stang]

Originally Posted by Spit

Have you tried another dashboard/instrument cluster? to see if the gauges work?
I suppose that there is a chance that the board itself has a crack in it..causing a break a foil track on the board. I had a microwave oven once that had a shorted control board...had to solder on a wire bridge across the broken tracks. then it worked fine.

Spit

Yep, I actually did that as the first step...............and it seemed like years ago! I subbed a used one from the boneyard, but no change. Unless the boneyard one was bad, but what are the chances both were bad...

I'm almost 1000% percent sure another one wouldn't change anything, but at this point, now you got me thinking of trying yet another cluster....

[coalminer]

Well, it was the BCM in my van, once I replaced that everything worked, just need to get the new one programmed with the correct mileage....The van had 365,000 on it before, now it only has 82,000 on it....


Did you try unplugging your little trip module in the overhead console to see if that was disrupting the communication? And also the heater control module?

From what I have read, the voltage in the CCD bus is generated in the BCM and terminated in the PCM, but anything else that is hooked up to it can disrupt the communication.

[82Stang]

Originally Posted by coalminer

Did you try unplugging your little trip module in the overhead console to see if that was disrupting the communication? And also the heater control module?

There's yet another thing to try.

I read also about the CCD bus and any component on that line could affect the performance disprupting everything. I knew of the radio and heater control module and had those completely out when I tried another BCM. Didn't know about the trip module though, worth a shot. Still debating if I want to pull the BCM a 3rd time and check the junction block, as I suppose that could have a problem from what I read.

Another day, another try.

[2000 plymouth]

i had same issue the panal for heater and blower unhooked temp control harness and all guages come back on

[RIP]

Since this 3 year old thread has been resurrected anyway, just wonder what the fix was. Are you still there 82Stang?