Lola T-70 Mk III

[Scale-Master]

I got the engine cover and doors to open and close smoothly and uniformly, but the doors and their panel lines still needed some adjustment. I added material (more sheet plastic) to the roof to make the left door align better. The A pillars also received more material for the same reason.
These shots give a good indication of how much material (white styrene) was added to true up the body panels. I did not use any putty at this point, just styrene and CA. Hopefully this will be under primer for the last time soon…

[kans0002]

ive run out of words. super work!

[Deathtrap]

Indeed. Speachless...

It also makes you wonder... was there any spot on the model that was 'okay'. Or was everything in need for modification.
Still... I'm enjoying all the efforts.

[Mpfiend]

This really is a stunning piece of work, I look forward to every update.

Best Regards

Keith

[Scale-Master]

Thanks Guys!

Once I got the door lines better than the real cars I've been using for reference I turned my attention to the door handles. I like the cleaner smooth look better than the T-bar handles with the deep dimples that came in the kit. The sleeker GT40 style handles made sense since the same guy designed both cars.
I cut out a section of the doors to fit the brass inserts I made to receive the handles.


After they were located uniformly I filled in the dimples too.

[Scale-Master]

I machined the aluminum door handles too.

The inner door panels were given some attention and a few more magnets as well. I was using screws to attach them to the doors when I started, but the magnets will make for a cleaner look. Up until now they were just being used to align the doors to the body. I haven't decided if I'll fill the two bottom holes on each on yet, or add a small pull bar. Depends on the inner latch handle…

[Scale-Master]

I made small doors for stowage for the inner door panels. The knobs are steel. I painted the doors to match the wheels and the recessed areas of the panels are body color.
The inner door handles are fabricated from aluminum. I also added a latch mechanism to the front of the doors for safety. The front and rear latch pins are aluminum. I'll add the two fasteners to the bottom of each door panel when they are permanently installed to the doors.

[Scale-Master]

On my list of ancillary parts is a pair of saw horses to support the hood when it is not on the car.
I started with some brass C channel and rectangular box stock. I milled the box stock into another size of C channel for the tops. I soldered the perimeter of the A frame together. (As fun as making them fold up seemed at first, their job is to show off the car part safely first.)


Next I cut the angles for the bottoms of the legs.

[Scale-Master]

I soldered the sheet metal stiffeners to the A frames.

[Scale-Master]

I soldered a second layer of brass to the stiffeners for detail, and stiffness…

[Scale-Master]

I set my mill up to work as a planer and shaved some basswood stock down for the tops.

I also imbedded some magnets to make them more stable when the hood is perched on them.

[Scale-Master]

I painted the insides of the horses and the latch/locks before installing them with hinge pins.

[Scale-Master]

I mixed some enamel cream and acrylic clear yellow and painted where the magnets were visible on the bottom.
Steel pins locate the wood beams to the frames.

Ready for final paint…

[Scale-Master]

The sawhorses are finished. I made decals and added the pivot point fasteners.

[Scale-Master]