92 Astro power window problems

[Stonedsurfer]

Our 1992 Astro AWD LT power windows are making me crazy. In the past we have gone through the ordeal with the windows only going up an inch at a time and ended up replacing the motors on both sides. I was aware of the breaker on the motor getting weak and only working again once it cooled off,but I just replaced the motors anyway. The New problem is no power going to the window switch on either side. No power going to the door lock on the passenger side. There is power to the door lock on the drivers side. I replaced the power window 30 amp fuse and tests o.k. but still no power. I checked the wiring running between the door and body and see no defects. Now a weird side effect going on I just discovered is.... when I use the drivers side door lock in the down(lock) position,it make a noise like its trying to lock the doors but it does not lock the doors...when I use it in the up(unlock) position the passenger side power mirror engages and moves the mirror down. Thats funny because the mirror adjuster switch works on every setting but passenger side down! My main concern is trying to get power to the window switch. Any ideas are welcome since I can't find the obvious solution.

[Stonedsurfer]

O.K..... So now I've done some more digging and have discovered someone has already been messing with the wires that run from the clip,inside the van under the dash,that run through the body and out to the door. I can see electrician tape on the pink wire and two others right after the clip on the door side of the wires. Its not in an easy spot to unhook the clip and get the wires pulled through the hole so I can see what has been done and whats wrong with it. I did steal power from the door lock and applied it to the pink wire at the switch and got the driver side window to work,but the passenger side of the switch is still dead. Its late so I will see whats what tomorrow and report back what I find.

[Stonedsurfer]

I also used this attachment to see what the wires for the power window were... its a diagram for a 93 astro,but close enough for me.

[old_master]

If it's any help... with the ignition switch in the RUN position, all terminals at both window switches should show less than 5 ohms resistance to ground EXCEPT the pink wire, it should show battery voltage. A common place for wiring to break is in the rubber boots in the door jambs. What USUALLY happens is the wire will break inside the insulation so at a glance, the wire looks fine.

If you have the express down feature, there is a circuit breaker in the window switch, not at the motor. If the glass binds in the track it will cause amperage draw to the motor to increase and pop the breaker. Check the adjustment and the tracks, they like to rust under the felt liner and bind the glass. If they need lube, a shot of silicone spray helps. It's also possible the breaker is just weak, in which case, the switch must be replaced. The switch is usually the problem when the glass moves an inch or so and stops, provided the glass is not binding. Hope this helps.

[vettepin]

on all power window motors i have seen (its alot) all window motors have a brass overload circuit breaker inside of the motor housing between one brush wire, also there is one in the switch for the express down feature which causes problems when it stops working by melting the motor. this is how we rebuild the slow window motors that go a inch and stop. We clean and solder a spot on the brass overloader in the motor to bypass it. I also disable the express down to prevent future motor problems . ssshhh dont tell napa.

[Stonedsurfer]

Thanks and great advise all... I did find 7-8 broken wires inside the plastic cover thats inside the boot covering them. The rest of the wires were on their way to breaking so I cut and spliced in a 8 inch wire for each and every one of them. I took both door wire harnesses out to make the work eaiser. After installing it all again,easier said than done,I got the results I was hoping for. All the windows,mirrors and doorlocks now all work perfectly. It cost me around $40.00 for all the wire and stuff but it was well worth the cost. Now I'm off in search of the problem with my antilock and brake lights came on and stayed on again!

[old_master]

Glad you found and fixed it, and thanks for posting back with the repair. Sounds like you did a professional job! Start a new thread for the ABS and someone will help you.

[johnwads]

i replaced my driver side motor and regulator, and hooking up and plugging it all in to test the switch works but in reverse. up is down and down is up with the auto down is now auto up. is there and easy fix for this or is something wrong? any help would be great thanks

[old_master]

The polarity at the motor is backwards. Make sure the electrical connector at the motor is connected correctly. If the connector has two wires, they need to be switched in the connector.