Questions about replacing rear strut mount

[Corkscrew]

This is referring to the same problem chuck66 described in this thread, which is the same problem with my parent's 94 Lumina. It started with a slight clunk noise in the left rear strut, and now it sounds like it's completely unattached when you go over little bumps and potholes (usually doesnt do it on the interstate). With 4 adults in the car it barely does it, if at all. Looking at them in the trunk, I can see it clunk around when I bounce the car. Also I think I was able to grab the top of the strut shaft and move around with my hand. It's not just extremely loose as in flopping around, but I can move it around.

They're about to buy a new car so need to get this fixed before we try to sell it. So, although it needs struts, etc. replaced, we will not go that route. So I'm wondering how hard it would be to replace that mount myself. 15+ years ago I used to work in a shop and replaced a few sets of struts, but that was before 1994, so I don't know how they've changed and how hard the Lumina's are to get apart. The Lumina looks like it has an odd looking suspension with horizonal link arms everywhere, but I imagine nothing would have to be loosened but the strut assembly itself.
Also back when i did them, that was with power tools and being able to get under the car using in-ground lifts.

I think I can rent a coil spring compressor from Auto Zone.
I only have one floor jack. I have an impact gun and air rachet, but my air compressor is only a 3 gallon, so I'm not sure they'll have enough power.
Anything special I need?

This page says "The rear strut assembly is not serviceable. The assembly is replaced as a complete unit." That just means that you can't only replace the internal strut piston like you can on the front, correct? The strut mount comes off?
We have auto zone, o'reilly, and advanced. Any recommendations where to get it?

Any feedback welcome. Thanks.


Blue Bowtie: Thanks for the tip in that thread. I'm not an old timer or one of the regulars on here, but in general I'm a long time internet forum junky on the net (10+ years internet forums user of several hundred forums and discussion lists, plus BBS 'forums' user (& BBS owner) dating back to the early/mid 1980's). I do realize that making a new post might bring more replies, but really you're damned if you do, damned if you don't. Post a new thread and then a mod/everyone yells that it's been covered many times and to get off your butt, use the search, that's what it's for, etc. etc. Also the reason I replied to that particular post was to show that I had done some reading on AF, and since it was the exact same problem, also to find out what that guy ended up doing to fix his problem. I could have posted a new thread too, but would have just posted a link to see other thread and maybe also replied there too. 'Course then some mods will yell that you should post all in one and not make two replies. Regardless of it was not the best choice or not, my reply didn't hurt anything and I dont think it was necessary to close it.

[maxwedge]

Check this link, info is at top of page. http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker...3d8010aaeb.jsp

[Corkscrew]

Originally Posted by maxwedge

Check this link, info is at top of page. http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker...3d8010aaeb.jsp

Thanks but I posted that link in my post.

[richtazz]

The mount can be serviced separately from the strut. Since it will require the strut to be removed from the car to do it, you will also need an alignment when done, as these cars require a 4-wheel alignment. If the car has a rear sway bar, double check the mount bushings for it as well, as they are another source of rear clunks in Lumina's and the end bushings are mounted at the lower strut bolts.

[maxwedge]

Ok now 2 moderators don't seem to be able to satisfy you, plus a pic of the strut/mount break down, I think we're through here!

[Corkscrew]

Originally Posted by maxwedge

Ok now 2 moderators don't seem to be able to satisfy you, plus a pic of the strut/mount break down, I think we're through here!

Woah. First of all, who said I wasn't satisfied? Second, what two moderators? No moderators posted any answers any of my questions in this thread. Third, I never even replied after richtazz's post. I appreciate the info he gave.

So I'm not really sure what you're talking about since I said nothing, and I didn't criticise anyone. Somehow I should just be satisfied even though I still dont know some of the things I asked? If questions aren't welcome here, I'll go elsewhere.

I really think you should lighten up a little bit. Perhaps you're upset that your reply only included a link that I had already posted in my OP, which you must have not read. Regardless, that picture doesn't answer my questions. And I'm not sure why you want to limit responses. More replies only help other people too that might have the same questions now or in the future. I know you're a mod and all, but good grief. No need to get upset.

[Blue Bowtie]

First, thanks for starting the new thread rather than attaching to the old one. That's the preferred method here.

Secondly, this is obviously a case of general confusion, and I agree that everyone should just maintain an even keel. No one called anyone else a "poopey head" yet (pardon my harsh language - Needed the effect) so there's really nothing to retract.

I saw the links (hiding in the original post), but that doesn't matter. They could easily be missed. maxwedge supplied reasonably appropriate information, and richtazz offered details. Everyone here gets equal attention and equal time.

To be more specific, yes, the rear strut upper mounts can cause the noise you describe. Yes, the link to the diagram supplied by maxwedge is relevant, since that's how the strut assembly is arranged, even though it is not specific to the 1994 model year and the parts used are slightly different. There are three nuts holding the strut mount to the body, and one large nut holding the strut to the mount. That large nut also retains the force of the spring, so you'll need to use a spring compressor before removing that nut.

Further, your diagnosis seems correct. Since you can move the upper strut around in the mount, the mount(s) is/are probably toast. You are also correct that the rear strut assembly is not the same as the front, and that there is no damper cartridge which can be replaced. However, the struts can be replaced as an assembly (just like most other struts) while using the original spring. And the strut mounts are servicable separate from the struts. Just plan on doing them both and being done with it for the mext 100,000 miles.

When replacing the upper strut mounts, it is also a good idea to replace the isolators (spacers) below the mounts, since they seldom are supplied with the strut mounts. The mounts are about $25 each, and the isolators are about $10 each.

Generally, you should do yourself a big favor and apply penetrating oil to the large nuts on the strut stems and the nuts on the strut mounts well in advance. You might also want to wet down the top of the strut stem from the underside of the vehicle (throught the wheel opening) so that you have a better chance of removing the accordian tube and space from the strut stem. A little penetrating oil on the stabilizer bar mount bolts and the lower strut bolts/nuts might help, too.

As was mentioned previously, check the bushings on the traling arms, stabilizer bar end mounts, and lateral links while you're working there, since they can fail as well. Also as mentioned, you should plan on having the alignment checked after you're finished. Keep in mind that it's a pretty snug area to work, but since you've already been there to check the play, you already know that.

It's not a really bad job, just time consuming. You may also want to have some rust preventive paint or rust converter on hand to apply before you install the new struts, since that area is a good place for rust to start, and it will be wide open to repair with the mount removed.

Good luck with the project.

[Corkscrew]

Great. Thanks a lot, Blue Bowtie. As I said, they're selling the car, so we won't be replacing the struts. By "accordian tube and space", do you mean the dust shield? I've never had a problem removing them. Have you? Just curious.

I was looking at autozone.com and it says the strut mount is not available either online or from the store. Any idea why?

FYI, I never said the link maxwedge gave was irrelevant; just that the only info he gave, I'd already given, which supposedly answered all my questions.

Thanks again.

[Blue Bowtie]

Yup. The last pair I did had the dust shields fused tight. There are also isolator/bumpers above the dust shield which can fuse and take a beating. If you're not replacing the struts, you probably won't have to worry about either item since they'll likely stick to the strut. However, if the isolator is damaged, you'll have to get it off.

Either way, you'll need to use the spring compressor for safety.

It's odd that the mounts aren't available there. Parts America/Advance Auto, O'Reilly, and RockAuto all list them, as well as probably many others.

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductL...or=Strut+Mount

http://www.oreillyauto.com/EW3/Displ...2&groupCode=34

[Blue Bowtie]

Actually, I've been informed that the '94 models may have a captive spring, and you MAY not need a spring compressor. I know the '95-96 both require a compressor and have a different mount and strut part number. It would be best to consult a manual for your safety, just to be certain. A little research and job preparation can go a long way toward success.

[uH8THECHEVY]

Originally Posted by Blue Bowtie

Actually, I've been informed that the '94 models may have a captive spring, and you MAY not need a spring compressor. I know the '95-96 both require a compressor and have a different mount and strut part number. It would be best to consult a manual for your safety, just to be certain. A little research and job preparation can go a long way toward success.

The only Spring in the rear of the 1994 Lumina is the Leaf Spring. When I changed my struts on my 1994 & 1991 Lumina I bought the mounts at Advance Auto Parts.

[Corkscrew]

Hmm. Autozone needs to specify that in their pics that show a coil spring.

Well that should be fairly easy then, without having to worry about a coil spring and just using the floor jack. Though I also remember a person or two in other thread(s) mentioning trouble getting something in/lined up correctly. Can't remember exactly what it was now, an isolator bumper I think. You'd have to read through the other threads. I would have replied to that thread, but...

[uH8THECHEVY]

Originally Posted by Corkscrew

Hmm. Autozone needs to specify that in their pics that show a coil spring.

Well that should be fairly easy then, without having to worry about a coil spring and just using the floor jack. Though I also remember a person or two in other thread(s) mentioning trouble getting something in/lined up correctly. Can't remember exactly what it was now, an isolator bumper I think. You'd have to read through the other threads. I would have replied to that thread, but...

Autozone's discription is for a 1995 and new Lumina. 1989-1994 don't have coil springs in the rear.

I believe that would be the two bolt at the bottom of the strut that hold the strut to the knuckle(I think that is what it is called). They that If you line them up to the point that they were before you took them off, you don't have to get an alignment. But I always got an alignment anyways.

[maxwedge]

That top picture does not show a coil spring on the strut, as the next and lower pics do for the newer model, granted it is basic and does not show the transverse spring. But between that and looking at the layout before doing the work, it should not be a mystery.

[Corkscrew]

Originally Posted by uH8THECHEVY

Autozone's discription is for a 1995 and new Lumina. 1989-1994 don't have coil springs in the rear.

I believe that would be the two bolt at the bottom of the strut that hold the strut to the knuckle(I think that is what it is called). They that If you line them up to the point that they were before you took them off, you don't have to get an alignment. But I always got an alignment anyways.

Knuckle. That might have been it. Whatever it was, one or more people said they had trouble (I think) getting it back in (maybe just said lined up).