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11-17-2001, 05:11 AM | #16 | |
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Moppie,
I want a front wheel drive AE82 hatch. yeah i know that the 6 spd is front wheel drive or else i would of just stayed with the factory gearbox or put in a T50. but with the fdactory gearbox i would of strengthened the clutch plates and stuff. the westfield will be a machine, it does 0-100km/h in around 5.2 seconds, which beats alot of sports cars, and it is also street legal, even though it is about 90-110mm of the ground. AE82_3sgte, do u have a stereo in your rolla, if not r u goin to put one in??. if i am going to it will just be a head unit (sony), 4 inch splits in the front doors (pioneer or alpine), 6x9 in the rear doors (pioneer or alpine) and 2 subs on the back boot lid tray (10 inch, Xplod or MTX) and last 1 or 2 V12 amps.
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11-17-2001, 07:34 PM | #17 | |
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Moppie,
I have a Toyota Corolla AE82 4Dr Hatch, Front Engine, Front Drive , ie. FF. Manufacture date 7/88 (Last AE82 Model) I have a 3SGTE (out of a ST185 GT-Four) going into it soon, yes I realise all the chassis strengthening which is what I plan to do anyhow. This is not straight bolt in and requires fabrication and modification which I shall be doing anyhow. He has an AE82 FF (Front Drive) like me, and wants to fit a 20V Blacktop into it, which is straight bolt in, only hard part is the wiring. :sun:
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11-19-2001, 04:33 AM | #18 | |
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well that just about sums it all up.
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11-19-2001, 11:05 PM | #19 | ||
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Quote:
I respect that. That will be a little rocket ship! What does the Aussie law think about this swap? or is it a case of its a Toyota motor in a toyota, what does it matter. ae82_3sgte Your totaly mad!!!! I hope you get some pics of the install progress, and some 1/4 times afterwards would be very interesting! I have a mate with the rusted remains of an Auto 1.3l Hatch, it refuses to die, but it has enough trouble handling the power from the 1300, I hate to think how it would cope with at least twice that hp!
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11-19-2001, 11:37 PM | #20 | |
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Moppie,
Torque is what will kill the chassis, not horsepower!!! Torque propells you, horsepower keeps the engine spinning and powered. Factory weight is 930kg, mine weighs about 970-980kg. Laws well, this conversion is engineerable so its not a problem, power to weight is like 6kg:1kw after conversion i think. I'm aiming for 4.75kg:1kw!!! Will be taking some pics and run some 1/4 mile times hopefully after, only going for low 12's , harder to get a FWD to run faster than that without some serious engine internal mods and big fat slicks hehe, which I dont really wanna do, since this will be a streetable car and get me from A to B as well as a bunch of speeding fines hehehe. The 20V AE82 is not too bad, runs pretty nice actually. Hrm my chassis isnt in the best condition but im gonna be stitch welding the whole thing and using bars and so forth to help improve rigidity at weak structural points.! Little QUick Torque Steering Wheelspinning FWD's are cool heheh.
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11-19-2001, 11:59 PM | #21 | |
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Mate im not talking about the chassis falling apart, im talking about the ablity of the rather small stock brakes to stop the car from the extreme high speeds it will be capable of, or the rather poor stock suspension to keep all four wheels on the road at the extreme speeds the car will be capable of.
Even new springs and shocks with some semi racing pads will not be enough, if you think it is your deludding your self, and putting your life at risk. This is why I asked about what the ADR thinks of this swap.
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11-20-2001, 12:17 AM | #22 | |
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Moppie,
Front End Suspension. Poly Bushes Koni Yellow Shocks 50% Stiffer SPrings -35mm (220lbs/") Rear End Suspension KYB Shocks 25% Stiffer Springs -38mm (190lbs/") Front End Brakes 258x22mm Slotted Ventilated AE92 Levin Rotors ST185 Gt-Four Twin Piston Calipers Bendix Performax Pads GT-Four Brake Booster/Master Cylinder Rear End Brakes Standard Twin Cam Discs Standard Twin Cam Calipers Bendix Metal King Pads If all that can stop a GT-Four quick, it can certainly stop a 1060kg Corolla 1 1/2 times as quick.
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Michael. AE82 Corolla Hatch. |
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11-20-2001, 12:25 AM | #23 | |
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The Way I see they see it, to have it engineered brakes must be of at least the standard of the car the engine came from. GT-Four has 2 spots front, single spots rear.
I cant fit 4 sptos behind my front rims, already tried, not enough offset to clear the strut or the rim.
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Michael. AE82 Corolla Hatch. |
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11-20-2001, 12:38 AM | #24 | |
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AE_82Neo take note of ae82_3sgte's above listed brake set up. (very nice by the way, I love the interchangeablity of so many Toyota parts).
You need factor this into your set up, and it could well cost more than the engine swap. (I have no idea what you guys pay for imported parts). ae82_3sgte Ill take back any doubts it may have sounded like I had, you clearly have a very well set up car! Im impressed. any chance of some pics?
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11-20-2001, 03:06 AM | #25 | |
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Moppie,
Leave your email addy and Ill send you some pics from work, on dialup at home now and its damn slow. Well always allow an extra $3-4k AUD on top of it for other things. Also fuel line/pump upgrades, any hoses you have to replace when the engine is out, replacing timing belt, cleaning radiator. Changing spark plugs for colder items, replacing leads with better conducting ones, air filter to replace dodgy factory airbox, which you have to make an airbox for anyhow in Australia, fitting a larger exhaust to let out the extra gasses the engine produces. And basically anything that looks like it needs to be replaced while the engine is out that you can find looks worn out/broken. Brakes, Suspension, Fuelling are the 3 most important upgrades you must do when you fit an engine that produces more power and weighs more than a factory delivered item. Another thing is to also look at chassis weaknesses and strengthen them. Even though Toyota over-engineer everything there will always be a weakest link. In a FWD as torque twists the car from North to South, your weak points will be your strut towers to just past your A-Pillars. I recommend going over the whole car, checking it for cracks (as its been around at least 13 years), stitch welding weak joints and using L-Brackets to strengthen corners of the subframe. This will at least make sure your chassis wont start to crack over the first year of transplanting this engine. The blacktop doesnt make much more power, but enough to possibly cause a problem, not as much so as the 3SGTE as the 4AGE 20V blacktop produces more linear torque rather than, little to a lot as a turbo does when it suddenly comes on boost. Your torque curve comes alive very early in the rev range, 3SGTE Gen II at 304nm @ 3200rpm. I am hoping to get with all mods approx. 400nm or so, hopefully delivered slightly later than 3200rpm. Horsepower goal of around 290hp which is the maximum for the factory injectors being 430cc/min items.
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11-20-2001, 03:16 AM | #26 | |
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Sounds like you've really done the home work on whats involved.
Its good to see. Ill have to dig up some of my links, but do you know the name: Bradshaw? hes a Toyota guru with an awsome website. any way my email is moppie_nz@yahoo.com Id love to see some pics.
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11-21-2001, 02:19 AM | #27 | |
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Guys,
I took note of those suspanesion dimensions and your brake upgrades. I never actually thought about the chassis twisting or the fuel lines, shit. Would u plz be able to send me those pics aswell, my email is Traber_1@hotmail.com. i had thought about brakes and suspension but not any thing to do wit the fuel. how much do u have to do on the fuel lines? And what type and sixe of wheels and tyres do u have? here is a pic of the tyres that i want, they are 17x7 inchers. MASSIVE!!!
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