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Old 11-17-2008, 08:53 PM   #16
90sabre
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Re: Water pump or Heater core?:banghead:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Stewart
Here's more to check...

Is there only 1 hole under the thermostat housing and the thermostat sets on it or is there a smaller hole next to the thermostat hole?

Is the thermostat wide enough that the thermostat housing holds it down in place or can the thermostat move vertically into the thermostat housing?

As you can see, the thermostat must be held in place by the thermostat housing and stay closed until the motor reaches operating temperatures then open just enough & even close back if necessary to maintain those operating temperatures to be effective.
Thanks I checked this out today when I checked the t stat, just one hole where the t stat goes in, and the t stat is wide enough so that it is held down by the housing bolts. It isn't able to move at all. The new t stat appears to be working as I no longer get flow when the engine is cold. Still can't get it warm tho. I apologize for the duplicate threads. thanks again!

Leo
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Old 11-17-2008, 11:34 PM   #17
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Re: Water pump or Heater core?:banghead:

Runnin' outta tricks...
There's a "door" in the heater/AC ductwork that operates to get you hot, cold or any in between that's operated by your heater temperature knob. Sometimes these doors get stuck.
If both heater hoses are very warm or hot, you might try exercising the temperature knob with the engine hot & idling.
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Old 11-18-2008, 07:04 AM   #18
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Re: Water pump or Heater core?:banghead:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Stewart
Here's more to check...

Is there only 1 hole under the thermostat housing and the thermostat sets on it or is there a smaller hole next to the thermostat hole?

Is the thermostat wide enough that the thermostat housing holds it down in place or can the thermostat move vertically into the thermostat housing?

As you can see, the thermostat must be held in place by the thermostat housing and stay closed until the motor reaches operating temperatures then open just enough & even close back if necessary to maintain those operating temperatures to be effective.

There is only one hole which the thermostat sets into. Also, the t stat is the same width as the hole and with the housing bolted down I don't think it could move at all. Thanks again!

Leo
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Old 11-18-2008, 09:34 AM   #19
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Re: Water pump or Heater core?:banghead:

My gassers all run near and around 200F after warming up...one with 190K/16 years old.
You might buy a new 195F, make sure it has a tiny hole to help bleed air out of the system and give it a few miles to warm up...my diesel takes 10 minutes to get to 140F at road speeds and after 15 minutes, it finally gets up to temperature.
The wife's gasser gets to running temperatures in 5 minutes.
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1992 Bravada, 201K, stock
1997 Bravada, 101K, stock...was "called away"

"Cornbread Red", 2001 Dodge 2500,4X4,HO Cummins Diesel,QC,SWB,6spd.,Banks boost&pyro,US Gage fuel press.,Edge Drag Comp,4"exh.,cowl hood, bhaf, black Holley pump, 140gph...13psi WOT, Vulcan Big Line, kevlar/ceramic single disc clutch, cheapo fuel cooler, 8x.010" vco injector nozzles, Cat turbo 62-65-.70A/R, 497hp 1089 tq 8/25/14

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Old 11-18-2008, 09:42 AM   #20
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Re: Water pump or Heater core?:banghead:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Stewart
Runnin' outta tricks...
There's a "door" in the heater/AC ductwork that operates to get you hot, cold or any in between that's operated by your heater temperature knob. Sometimes these doors get stuck.
If both heater hoses are very warm or hot, you might try exercising the temperature knob with the engine hot & idling.
Yeah, it's so bizarre, I'll try that today tho, thanks!
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