'96 Tahoe 5.7 V-8 Intake Gaskets

[skeeterman]

Been napping since July 4, 2011. Well, not all that time. Anyway it's been about 16 months since I posted here. Still have the '96 Tahoe. Few months ago I notice the anti-freeze was disappearing in the radiator. I would add pint or so each time. Keep in mind here, I only drive this Tahoe about 100 miles a "year" since i been retired. It has 128,460 miles. I need to take it for a spin more often to keep the seals in transmission, etc.. lubricated.
Last week I decided to tackle the job of replacing the intake manifold gaskets, as that is where the anti freeze is going....although, I couldn't find any "soaply..suddy" residue on the dipstick or in the oil filler tube.

I have the manifold off the block, and washed, cleaned the lifters, center valley, and such. I purchased a Fel-Pro MS98000T gasket set and extra valve cover gasket for the left side. I'm now waiting for a new Craftsman Digi-Click torque wrench that I ordered from Sears two weeks ago and still haven't received it.

I'm sure most of you know General Motors made a big mistake installing the wrong/bad intake gaskets...and that awful Silicone crap for the intake end caps. I'm from the old school..don't believe in glue type sealer to seal any engine components.
With that, that brings me to my questions. I understand General Motors changed the their method on sealing the intake in caps on the block. Does anyone know if they went back to the "rubber/neoprene strips like they had many years ago? If so, I want to buy these and forget about trhe silicone sealer.

[j cAT]

Originally Posted by skeeterman

Been napping since July 4, 2011. Well, not all that time. Anyway it's been about 16 months since I posted here. Still have the '96 Tahoe. Few months ago I notice the anti-freeze was disappearing in the radiator. I would add pint or so each time. Keep in mind here, I only drive this Tahoe about 100 miles a "year" since i been retired. It has 128,460 miles. I need to take it for a spin more often to keep the seals in transmission, etc.. lubricated.
Last week I decided to tackle the job of replacing the intake manifold gaskets, as that is where the anti freeze is going....although, I couldn't find any "soaply..suddy" residue on the dipstick or in the oil filler tube.

I have the manifold off the block, and washed, cleaned the lifters, center valley, and such. I purchased a Fel-Pro MS98000T gasket set and extra valve cover gasket for the left side. I'm now waiting for a new Craftsman Digi-Click torque wrench that I ordered from Sears two weeks ago and still haven't received it.

I'm sure most of you know General Motors made a big mistake installing the wrong/bad intake gaskets...and that awful Silicone crap for the intake end caps. I'm from the old school..don't believe in glue type sealer to seal any engine components.
With that, that brings me to my questions. I understand General Motors changed the their method on sealing the intake in caps on the block. Does anyone know if they went back to the "rubber/neoprene strips like they had many years ago? If so, I want to buy these and forget about trhe silicone sealer.

the use of the silicone sealer does work if properly applied and the surface has no contamination.

I did a lot of silicone sealant use on many vehicle gasket sealing. typical is cleaning the surface no oils then apply the proper bead width and then wait about 45 min then carefully install components.

felpro has gaskets that are easier to install.

100miles a year is not good. I hope you use alot of fuel stabilizer. I would also use a few ounces of marvel mystery oil to reduce the corrosive effects of the alcohol fuel.

[skeeterman]

[quote=j cAT; I did a lot of silicone sealant use on many vehicle gasket sealing. typical is cleaning the surface no oils then apply the proper bead width and then wait about 45 min then carefully install components.
100 miles a year is not good. I hope you use alot of fuel stabilizer. I would also use a few ounces of marvel mystery oil to reduce the corrosive effects of the alcohol fuel.[/QUOTE]

j cat, I use Seafoam two ways. Pour 1/3 can in a glass jar and remove the power brake vacuum hose and siphon into the fuel injection pendulum and let it set for one hour, and restart engine until smoke clears from exhaust pipe. Put rest of the Seafoam in the gas tank.

The Fel-Pro gaskets do look much better than the factory ones. When I get the torque wrench I will proceed it put it all back together.

[777stickman]

When applied correctly, the silicon end gasket is way better than the rubber ones. Silicon is also known as RTV (Room Temperature Vulcanizing). When applying the RTV it needs to be 1/8-3/16 inch thick. Then it needs to sit and cure (at room temp) until a good skin is present. This could take up to an hour or more depending on the room temp. Patience is the key here as most folks will put a bead on and then the intake and soon have an oil leak.

You can practice this on a sheet of tin foil to get a feel for it. If you do it right you won't be disappointed.

[j cAT]

Originally Posted by skeeterman

j cat, I use Seafoam two ways. Pour 1/3 can in a glass jar and remove the power brake vacuum hose and siphon into the fuel injection pendulum and let it set for one hour, and restart engine until smoke clears from exhaust pipe. Put rest of the Seafoam in the gas tank.

The Fel-Pro gaskets do look much better than the factory ones. When I get the torque wrench I will proceed it put it all back together.

the fuel in the tank needs stabilizer. the fuel will grow organisms that corrode and damage the fuel system. chemistry changes.

I would install the max amount indicated on the container for max protection.

sea foam is a cleaner. good to use when the fuel is old and creates fuel delivery deposits.

[skeeterman]

Originally Posted by 777stickman

When applied correctly, the silicon end gasket is way better than the rubber ones. Silicon is also known as RTV (Room Temperature Vulcanizing). When applying the RTV it needs to be 1/8-3/16 inch thick. Then it needs to sit and cure (at room temp) until a good skin is present. This could take up to an hour or more depending on the room temp. Patience is the key here as most folks will put a bead on and then the intake and soon have an oil leak..

From all the information I've read on the Internet, you are the first to explain how to do the silicon bit. The instructions on all the RTV tubes does not mention anything about a "skin" procedure before installing the manifold. Most posts I've read says, "it must be done within 30 minutes, and here you state it could take up to an hour."

My question, have you perform this procedure?

[777stickman]

Done it too many times to count (as you can tell by the Chevy stable below). Again, the time it takes to get the skin depends on the room temp. You want to be able to touch the RTV without leaving any on your finger.

Try it on a piece of tin foil.

[j cAT]

Originally Posted by skeeterman

From all the information I've read on the Internet, you are the first to explain how to do the silicon bit. The instructions on all the RTV tubes does not mention anything about a "skin" procedure before installing the manifold. Most posts I've read says, "it must be done within 30 minutes, and here you state it could take up to an hour."

My question, have you perform this procedure?

like I stated before I wait 45 min. true the temp is a factor. very hot air temp perhaps 30 min . 45 min would be at 75 deg f.

I did this many times on all types of small/large transportaion equipment etc. you put it together to quickly the material will get pushed out.