1993 Olds Cut. Supreme "S" Window problem

[CA Cutlass Supreme]

Hello all,

I'm baaaaack!!!! My windows are electric. I can roll it down almost all the way (gets stuck about 1" from the bottom of the sill), but then when i hit the button to roll it up, it will go about just part way and then get stuck, like the alignment is off and i have to pull up on the window while simultaneously pushing the up button, it seems to get worse just about every time i try it..this time i had to pull up on the window numerous times to get it to move. I believe there is some play in the channels. I read somewhere that someone used silicon spray, but that sounds like a very temporary fix until it does the same thing all over again. I looked down from the top of the door sill and there is definitely a built in curvature to the window. I'm guessing that something is off and rubbing and slowing the motor down.

I have done the search function and autozone's "how to" pictures don't exist anymore (click on them and they don't come up).

I can read the text, but graphics and SIMPLE instructions w/ arrows pointing to described part for idiots would be most helpful. Like what wierd tools do i need to remove the plastic door covering and the like ..tips/ tricks...you know what i mean

is there somewhere on this forum w/ a pictorial "how-to" and "windows for dummies" explanation on how to fix my particular problem?

BTW: My car is still running fine...you may remember my electrical problem from 4 pages back.

[xeroinfinity]

Hey how could I forget.
Glad to hear its still running well.

If I remember correctly the buttons pop off from the front edge, lift up and un plug.
For the door panel should be 3 screws holding it on, and a bunch of push pins around the panel perimeter, a panel tool works best for these(less damage to the pins) about 15$.

But from what youre explaining sounds like its binding up and the tracks are probly loose or broken. You'll probly want to visualy inspect and see what's going wrong.

[CA Cutlass Supreme]

Originally Posted by xeroinfinity

Hey how could I forget.
a panel tool works best for these(less damage to the pins) about 15$.
sounds like its binding up and the tracks are probly loose or broken.

Saved by Zero!

Yeah, it's definitely hanging in the tracks. When it gets wet (lubed by water), it's a little easier to operate, but i think you are right. Something's off or broken in there. I'll do a search and see what a panel tool looks like.

BTW: Is it wise to have the window full up and taped in place?

[xeroinfinity]

Here is what the panel tool looks like, thier are many different ones but this would be the cheapest.


It doesnt hurt to tape the window up, I'd hate to have it fall and get wet inside the car.

You might get lucky and it just need some lube on the tracks, tho sometimes the rivets holding the tracks come loose, easy to fix with new rivets just tricky to get to.

Good Luck!

[CA Cutlass Supreme]

i got the trim off. There are two bolts that adjust the channel in the front part of the door. I looked in my chilton manual for window adjustment and removed the inside rain guard and force rolled the window down all the way(hand on button and pushing down on window). It said to loosen the front track bolts, then finger tighten the top and torque the bottom to something like 50+ inch -lbs. The window is still resistant in it's tracks an doesn't want to move. Even with the front track bolts all the way loose, it it VERY resistant. Could it be just the motor going bad? I did notice on the rear track , it looks like a rivet is missing. I highly suspect, that even if i replaced this rivet, it wouldn't work much better, because i think the problem is mainly below the door. Any comments? pictures? tips?

The window motor has some peculiar rivets that hold it in place. Does anyone know what these are called and where i can get them? Do i have to lock this motor or will it spring out like belt tensioner if yoiu are not careful? How do you lock this motor or does this apply to my car? The manual is a pitiful excuse for a repair guide.

My motorcyle manual puts this thing to shame. 1/2 assed to say the least.

[xeroinfinity]

You could try the window lube they should sell at most part stores.
The missing rivet could have caused damage to the lift mech. and jambed it all up.

Any rivet should work as long as the diameter is closely the same, those you see are factory rivets.

In the end the window motor/mech will probly need replced.

But I'd try replacing the rivet, and lube the tracks well and see if that doesnt fix it cheaply.

Good Luck

[CA Cutlass Supreme]

Here's a couple pictures if anyone is interested. I went ahead and ordered a new motor. I tried spraying some lube in the tracks to no avail. The parts guy seems to think the motor is tired and needs replacment.





IN THIS PICTURE (BELOW), DO I REMOVE THE RUSTY BAR IN HOLE AREA TO ACCESS WINDOW MOTOR?

[CA Cutlass Supreme]

Here's the inside of the trim panel.

[CA Cutlass Supreme]

I tried to use my stanley riveter, but it will not fit. i peeled back the rubber molding on both sides...there must be some type of special "narrow" rivet gun that will fit in the channel.

XI, how would you do it?

I do remember that a locksmith had to use an airbladder to wedge the door open when i locked my keys in the car last summer. Maybe that had popped the rivet out.

It just ain't gonna happen with my regular Stanley household type riveter. the head on the rivet tool is too short.

My window motor won't come in until fri, so I'll post up when i get the motor and ask what are the hot tips on getting this thing installed right the first time w/o too many headaches (i hope!).

[CA Cutlass Supreme]

Well i pulled the window completely out and there was no load or resistance on the motor. So i decided to see how the motor would work w/o a load. Same thing. So, it looks like the motor is toast.

Can someone explain to me the dangers of the "spring"? What precautions do i need to take or what do i need to look for to keep my fingers intact.

BTW: popping the window in the sill required quite a few taps with one of those plastic dead blow hammers.

[CA Cutlass Supreme]

MORE...!!!!!!!!!!!!

I called two specialists for quotes....first was $185, second was over $250 bucks!!

The cheapest............the DEALER!!! $100 bucks to install the motor.

Surprise, Surprise, Surprise!

[CA Cutlass Supreme]

Hello again,

I was at a local used bookstore and was looking up the window regulator (factory manual) and the "bear trap" spring that is in there. Unfortunately, again, there is no picture!!! on this important finger saving procedure....grrr!!!!! It said to drill a hole in the old regulator to stop the spring from cutting your fingers off. If anyone can give me details w/ pictures on how to keep your fingers intact, it would be much appreciated!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I'm guessing a hole is drilled somewhere and you put a rod to keep the bear trap from snapping.

Anyone?

[xeroinfinity]

Did you check your PM's ?
I sent you one lastnight... with a link..

I dont have any pics of this, vise grips or as the manual stated, drill a hole insert a pin(large nail would work).

[CA Cutlass Supreme]

Thanks XI. I was just looking at that today and then the link stopped working.

[CA Cutlass Supreme]

Finally, my window regulator came in. What's cool about the new OEM GM regulator, is that they already have a screw and nut holding the regulator in place (see image).



You leave the bolt and nut in until the motor is placed in the gears and riveted. I like that, makes the job a bit easier.

Rainy and cold, so i will wait until the weather is better and will post up more pics as i go.