Jenn's Stupid Question Time ::Claps::

95VicChik · 02-11-2005, 10:10 AM

Today is stupid question day...so everyone gawk and laugh at me as i ask some stupid questions about cars, engines, and interior

1) ok first stupid question....what's the best way to get dirt, grime, grease, and paint out of your interior? such as the dash, door panels, and consoles...i'm thinking simple green, but i dont want to go out and buy it if it's not going to work on this kind of thing

2) I think i know the answer to this, but i'm going to ask anyway...what are the stock specs for an ls/vtec and b20b/vtec with a GSR head...such as hp/tq/etc

3) For God's sake! How much added weight does the h22a actually add to a civic's front??!?!?!?!! I've heard anywhere from 20lbs-200lbs and i don't think anyone knows

4) my headlights have officially died...are piaa's the best to buy? and what color? i want something white, but i don't want to blind people 10miles away from me either...give me a temperature and wattage..i'm thinking 5500k not sure..and where can i get them for a really good price?

5) I'm looking to get my car painted this summer....and i'm trying to decide between two colors...the stock color (which is horizon grey) or the very spectacular ultra uber stock 2005 Altima "Smoke" Color...it's like a dark gunmetal color, very sweet...my theme for the car is gray and black and i love both of those colors

...that being the case...should i sand and prime before i go to the body shop? or should i make them do all the work, cause i know it will get done right..cause if it will cut down on the price, then i'm doing it myself hehe

that's all for now, until next time, thanks! - Jenn

notyouraveragegirl · 02-11-2005, 11:53 AM

ooo... body work : ) my favorite

5) go for the gunmetal - the richer the gray, the better: ) and if you want to sand and prime yourself --

im assuming you'll be priming twice --

1. sand off original paint
2. Bondo work to smooth out body
3.(primer/sealer)
4. sand
5. primer
-- at least this how we paint cars with the type of PPG paint we use, and its two different types of primer, not the same primer twice
anywho- if that's the case, MAKE SURE you get your car to the paint shop and have it painted WITHIN 24-36 HOURS after that second primer... otherwise you may as well have them do all the work
And make sure the body is AS SMOOTH AS POSSIBLE with your bondo.. even the tiniest little ding will f* up the final paint job

So if you're up to, i'd say prime it yourself - just take your time -- if you've never done it before, it's not hard; just use common sense...blah blah blah

let me know what you decide i can give you more tips if you need it

have fun ~*~Cass

PS - simple green is a good cleaner for vinyl and. if my memory serves me correcty. upholstery alike -- if youre having carpet/ cloth issues -- most auto stores/ target/ walmart...etc also sell upholstery cleaner in the car section

CivicSpoon · 02-11-2005, 12:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 95VicChik

3) For God's sake! How much added weight does the h22a actually add to a civic's front??!?!?!?!! I've heard anywhere from 20lbs-200lbs and i don't think anyone knows

4) my headlights have officially died...are piaa's the best to buy? and what color? i want something white, but i don't want to blind people 10miles away from me either...give me a temperature and wattage..i'm thinking 5500k not sure..and where can i get them for a really good price?

I don't think anyone has the exact number on how much more the h22 weighs. But it's between 35-50lbs more than the b16a; http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=684550

For lights, I like the Sylvania Silverstars. When you're driving the light looks bright white, but when you're on the outside looking at them they are a slight tint of yellow. I believe I got them for $40 a pair at Pep Boys, but I've seen them on e-bay for $20-30 a pair. Here's a huge thread about different bulbs and ideas to look for: http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=177538

notyouraveragegirl · 02-11-2005, 02:05 PM

1. sand off original paint
2. Bondo work to smooth out body
3.(primer/sealer)
4. sand
5. primer
.... sorry - i must be drunk or something

IT GOES LIKE THIS:

1. scuff sand off paint
2. bondo
3. primer sealer
4.THEN PRIMER
5.THEN WET SAND

and you go back and forth between 4 and 5 until everything is a smooth as possible then get it right over to paint within a day and a half

... i think iwas drunk this morning or something when i wrote that first post

ps. i don't know who you're planning to have paint your car, but if its a commercial chain or someone you don't know to well - maybe you want to have a try at prepping on your own so you know everything looks how you want it to look instead of having to fight for them to correct their own laziness later - thats IMO

GScivic7 · 02-11-2005, 03:40 PM

1) to get the dirt and grime off of vinyl and plastic just use some sort of household degreaser/cleaner and lots of elbow grease. 409 etc. Then take use some armorall or something to give it a nice shine.

2) Dunno about this one.

3) It doesn't weigh that much more. Its how the motor sits that affects handling.

4) Anything higher than 4700k you are just getting more purplish and actually losing light output. 4700k is pretty white.

5) I FREAKING LOVE GUNMETAL PAINTED CARS...looks so sweet.

95VicChik · 02-11-2005, 04:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by notyouraveragegirl

ps. i don't know who you're planning to have paint your car, but if its a commercial chain or someone you don't know to well - maybe you want to have a try at prepping on your own so you know everything looks how you want it to look instead of having to fight for them to correct their own laziness later - thats IMO

That's where my problem lies, i live in the outside of the tampa area and all of the really great bodyshops START at 4k for my car....they'd take my whole car apart and it would take about 3weeks....my second problem is the guy that had the car before...took it to maaco and they completely trashed it with the 250 dollar job...that's why the paint job would cost so much for me...so i'm assuming i'd have to prime and sand the hell out of this car in order for it to look somewhat decent?

i'm not up to snuff on painting and techniques and such...but my point is i'd probably be taking it to Maaco...and making them do like 700 job, that way the clear coat is sprayed on seperately..the guys down here that work there do a pretty good job..and there pretty good at fixing mistakes without giving people much grief..what do you guys think?? I'm not really high on paint, i want it to look good...but i'd rather spend alot of money on the engine then on my ride's paint...Here's the "gunmetal" color i want to do..i saw this color in person at the mall once and oh my God it is gorgeous in real life! if you guys have any other suggestions on which has a really cool deep gray/gunmetal color...let me know

http://www.config.nissanusa.com/img/...ser_k11_lg.jpg

thanks guys for the input, i will definitely check into those bulbs, and Cass if you could give me some more tips on sanding and such, that would be great too

mrceej · 02-11-2005, 05:20 PM

This was painted at 1Day Paint & Autobody in San Diego. Same thing, separate clear. The original owner later buffed it out himself. It's not going to win a show or anything, but just to give you an example. The prep work is what will really make or break a paint job. The color is the factory Lexus IS300 blue.

Don't mind the dent on the fender LOL!!

notyouraveragegirl · 02-11-2005, 07:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mrceej

The prep work is what will really make or break a paint job.

I couldn't have said that better myself.
It doesn't matter how beautiful your paint is -- if that body isn't as clean and smooth as God could make it... you may as well not paint at all

I know you're saying you're pretty much about the go and not the show -- but before i get into too much depth on the painting: Are you doing any body mods at all (bumper covers, fenders, etc...) because its worth your effort to do ALL THAT first

oh, and, if you don't think you have the eye for detail (even the slightest pitting in the bondo and primer work can cause nasty things to happen to the good paint) and if you have any doubts on the prepwork - invest in having someone else do it
but if you're just unsure of exactly HOW to do but have the confidence to give it a shot then I'm still here to help you out...
or you could always bring it on out to cali for a week and we'll do the whole damn thing for ya : )

: ) more to follow...

JDMgirly · 02-12-2005, 04:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 95VicChik

That's where my problem lies, i live in the outside of the tampa area and all of the really great bodyshops START at 4k for my car....they'd take my whole car apart and it would take about 3weeks....my second problem is the guy that had the car before...took it to maaco and they completely trashed it with the 250 dollar job...that's why the paint job would cost so much for me...so i'm assuming i'd have to prime and sand the hell out of this car in order for it to look somewhat decent?

i'm not up to snuff on painting and techniques and such...but my point is i'd probably be taking it to Maaco...and making them do like 700 job, that way the clear coat is sprayed on seperately..the guys down here that work there do a pretty good job..and there pretty good at fixing mistakes without giving people much grief..what do you guys think?? I'm not really high on paint, i want it to look good...but i'd rather spend alot of money on the engine then on my ride's paint...Here's the "gunmetal" color i want to do..i saw this color in person at the mall once and oh my God it is gorgeous in real life! if you guys have any other suggestions on which has a really cool deep gray/gunmetal color...let me know

http://www.config.nissanusa.com/img/...ser_k11_lg.jpg

thanks guys for the input, i will definitely check into those bulbs, and Cass if you could give me some more tips on sanding and such, that would be great too

maybe you should check out some autobody repair and paint school in your area. then talk to the teacher about getting your car painted. if youre cute im pretty sure theyll do a show car type paint job for you free. all you have to do is buy the paint and other materials, about $200.

notyouraveragegirl · 02-12-2005, 01:56 PM

you're gonna spend more than 200 on paint and materials -- especially if you're getting factory color

...we got our paint in Louisiana where it's CHEAP and it was about $400 -- now this was for the accord, so i'd suspect you'd need less paint (not much though) -- but i should also mention that the only paint we had to remove was the orignal factory stuff and the remnants of some repairs done last april so you'd be doing more sanding than we did and that's not gonna change your cost so much except that you may need a little more sandpaper

and remember too - other body work (kits and whatnot) will cost a little more withe fiberglass/bondo/whatever

not trying to scare you - just giving you an idea
and its great bonding experience for you and your car ; )

JDMgirly · 02-12-2005, 11:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by notyouraveragegirl

you're gonna spend more than 200 on paint and materials -- especially if you're getting factory color

...we got our paint in Louisiana where it's CHEAP and it was about $400 -- now this was for the accord, so i'd suspect you'd need less paint (not much though) -- but i should also mention that the only paint we had to remove was the orignal factory stuff and the remnants of some repairs done last april so you'd be doing more sanding than we did and that's not gonna change your cost so much except that you may need a little more sandpaper

and remember too - other body work (kits and whatnot) will cost a little more withe fiberglass/bondo/whatever

not trying to scare you - just giving you an idea
and its great bonding experience for you and your car ; )

the 3 stages acrylic urethane paint are expensive. the catalyst itself is about $50 a pint. clear coat is about $120 a gallon and base color is about $80 a gallon. plus other materials like sandpaper and etc. yeah ill be expensive for a real paint job. so im guessing for a mickey mouse paint job is probly about 500-700 dollars and for a real paint job like below is gonna cost you some money.

95VicChik · 02-13-2005, 10:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by notyouraveragegirl

I know you're saying you're pretty much about the go and not the show -- but before i get into too much depth on the painting: Are you doing any body mods at all (bumper covers, fenders, etc...) because its worth your effort to do ALL THAT first

oh, and, if you don't think you have the eye for detail (even the slightest pitting in the bondo and primer work can cause nasty things to happen to the good paint) and if you have any doubts on the prepwork - invest in having someone else do it
but if you're just unsure of exactly HOW to do but have the confidence to give it a shot then I'm still here to help you out...
or you could always bring it on out to cali for a week and we'll do the whole damn thing for ya : )

: ) more to follow...

Trust me...if i had the money, and about three weeks to take off from school...i'd drive 5days out there so you could lol!

I have faith in myself...i'm the kind of person that wants to experience everything about my car....I also have a friend that helped his dad sand down his car so he would be willing to help me as well...
I'm buying a new front bumper...falling apart car and it's cracked..it's just a wreck hehe.

I do have a couple of questions tho....

There's some rust on the trunk lid, and over the drive side door...how would i go about fixing that area....i know they have some kind of rust stopper stuff that you can get (i can't remember the name) but i kind of want to get it out of there completely that way i don't have to worry about it...Should i just get a new trunk lid?...i'm going to be having this car until it literally dies on me, so i don't want that to come back and haunt me later on

Second...i was looking online and they have "primed" and "raw" front OEM bumpers for my car...would raw be better? cause all of this probably isn't going to be taking place until the summer time so i can sweat like a dog here in florida and save up some moola

but i need to go ahead and replace my bumper before i run over it one day lol..

anyways, fill me with knowledge..just not too much

notyouraveragegirl · 02-13-2005, 11:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JDMgirly

the 3 stages acrylic urethane paint are expensive. the catalyst itself is about $50 a pint. clear coat is about $120 a gallon and base color is about $80 a gallon. plus other materials like sandpaper and etc. yeah ill be expensive for a real paint job. so im guessing for a mickey mouse paint job is probly about 500-700 dollars and for a real paint job like below is gonna cost you some money.

if you use 3 stage paint you DON't generally use clear coat with it. that's what three stage is...base coat, tinted clear coat, clear coat - it's all inclusive
note: the paint we use is NOT three stage, which I personally prefer because you have more options this way

notyouraveragegirl · 02-13-2005, 02:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 95VicChik

I do have a couple of questions tho....

There's some rust on the trunk lid, and over the drive side door...how would i go about fixing that area....i know they have some kind of rust stopper stuff that you can get (i can't remember the name) but i kind of want to get it out of there completely that way i don't have to worry about it...Should i just get a new trunk lid?...i'm going to be having this car until it literally dies on me, so i don't want that to come back and haunt me later on

Second...i was looking online and they have "primed" and "raw" front OEM bumpers for my car...would raw be better? cause all of this probably isn't going to be taking place until the summer time so i can sweat like a dog here in florida and save up some moola

but i need to go ahead and replace my bumper before i run over it one day lol..

anyways, fill me with knowledge..just not too much

I'd look for a new trunk lid, especially since you're planning on keeping the car and doing a good paint job on it and all -- check out local salvage yards if you have any -- http://www.usedpartscentral.com/request.htm
or check out that link and submit requests for whatever you need -- I starting getting responses for a motor I was seeking in 5minutes, no lie

behappy you don't have the rust issue i have see my picture:

because im going to have to cut that out and fabricate new fenders

drivers side door? i don't know how bad that is -- if its minor & superficial you can sand it down and bondo it in otherwise you may have to fabricate or replace

as for your bumper cover - you say its OEM - so im a ssuming its plastic? find out what type of primer is on it and then i can help you \

alright...that's enough for now : )

notyouraveragegirl · 02-13-2005, 05:30 PM

hey guess who had another moment... it's single stage paint that i don't like because it does everything in one application... 3-stage is the way to go - i realize i was misinformed by a lady at one paint shop who calls the single stage 3-stage because it does everything ... and now her bad habit has seeped into my brain grr