DIY intake questions

[cgkehr27]

I have got the upper intake manifold off and am trying to get off the lower one. I am having trouble taking off the compressor bracket. I believe someone said that you need to take off the power steering pulley. My manual says that the bracket should slide out and NOT be taken off. Has anyone else had this problem? I dont want to buy that tool and take off the pulley if I dont have too. Thank you to anyone that can help me out.

[kbopp]

I had a problem when I replaced my intake gasket with the distributer was not lined up and would get a service light. what can be done to ensure that it is put in right the next time I have to do anything.

[70camaro]

Does anyone know of replacement intake gaskets for the "vortec V-8s" that are NOT the plastic and rubber ones they came with??? I cant see putting the same garbage back in, only to blow out again in another 70K!!! Someone should have made an inprovement on this design by now. I am a machinist and I'm half tempted to just make my own out of aluminum!!! Let's see that break!! Haha. But seriously, is there???

[waterskier]

I want to thank everyone for all their input on this issue especially GMMerlin. I installed the new FEL-PRO PermaDryPlus gasket set without any problems (keeping my fingers crossed).

[tertiarydog]

My intake gasket blew but after there was a water pump leak and thermostat gasket went. The old gasket didn't fit the truck well at all; so I had a new one installed. Here's the problem. After the intake was installed it was still leaking very slowly. The dealership put a pressure test on it which showed nothing. Now the coolant is starting to draw down, but I'm not seeing the leaks. Is the truck burning coolant abnormally. The engine suffered NO damage when the water pump went nor was there any signs of overheating at all. It was caught somewhat early.

[rae61]

Hey Guys, I'm getting ready to change my intake gasket this weekend and I have a couple of questions. First it seems like the power steering pump pully needs to be removed but has anyone managed to do this without doing that. Does anyone
have any sugestions or input on any other maintenance or other repairs that could or should be done while I have it apart. My Tahoe is a 1998 with 100k miles.

Thanks Rick.

[70camaro]

OK. I just finished doing intake gaskets on my '97 GMC Serria 1500 4X4 with the 5.7L Vortec engine (vin R). It took me a couple of weekends (20 hrs or so), not counting the problem mentioned later. I also spent about $200 on supplies. I recommend flushing your coolant and replacing your cap and rotor while doing this job. Here is what I did, and what I've learned.

1- Disconnect Neg. Batt. Terminal and (flush) drain coolant
2- Remove air inlet tube and vortec cover
3- Remove the ac comp. and swing it over to the other side, keep hoses in tact.
4- Disconnect and LABEL all electrical plug-ins connected to the manifold, also undo the plug to the Alt., Crank Pos. censor, and P. Steering (goes down the front and underneath.)
5- Pull wire-loom up and out of the way and tie it back with a bungee cord or similar.
6- There is a bracket on the pass. Side rear that needs to come off too. I cut mine in half and only removed the top portion. (the back bolt is hard to get to).
7- Disconnect upper rad. Hose, heater hoses, throttle cables, pvc devices, ign. coil, egr hose, and anything else connected to the manifold, that wont come off with it. You DO NOT need to remove the upper half of the manifold from the lower!!!
8- Remove the A/C bracket and P/S pump as a UNIT and set aside. There are 4 bolts in the front, and 2 underneath. You DO NOT need to pull the p/s pulley off!!! You do not need to remove the alternator either.
9- Disconnect the spark plug wires from the dist. and remove the dist. cap. It is VERY important that you mark the location of the rotor in relation to the dist. AND the location of the dist. in relation to the intake. If you don’t, you will be putting it on a scanner to set the timing.
10- Carefully remove the distributor. Notice how the rotor turns when you pull it out and remember it’s location so you can get it back in correctly.
11- Relive pressure from the fuel line. Disconnect the fuel lines at the back of the manifold near the trans.
12- Loosen bolts on valve covers, and break seal, do not need to remove them.
13- Unbolt and remove manifold.

Once the manifold is off, clean out the lifter valley and cover it with clean rags to keep gunk out. Remove old gaskets and clean mating surfaces well.

NOW is the BEST time to replace the “quick disconnect nipple” for the heater hose on the manifold, because it will break off, and you will be drilling it out. Unfortunately this is how it is. Carefully drill out what’s left of the nipple and clean out the threads with a tap or whatever you have. DO NOT use an “easy-out” and brute force!!! I cracked the boss doing this (followed by several foul words! ) and had to get it welded. Get the STEEL replacement from the dealer, and use some Teflon tape when installing.

When you put the gaskets on, use RTV on the valley ends (there is no gasket) and also put some around the coolant ports. Carefully replace the manifold (so you don’t smear RTV all over) and bolt down to specs. (Three stages, 11ft.lbs. is final value) Use some thread sealer or equivalent. Do not over-torque!
Hook everything back up. Replace your cap and rotor, refill coolant, and change the oil.

Remember, yours may be different, and I may have forgotten something (it’s been a week now). But this will guide you in the right direction. GOOD LUCK!

[rae61]

Great information 70camaro, thanks very much I will let you know how it went when it's done I think it should go fairly smooth.

Thanks again Rick

[ZR800]

70Camaro- thanks for your notes. They were great. I did my 99 Tahoe over the weekend. Project could not have gone any smoother. Don't really have any more tips to add, as 70Camaro's notes were great. I did not have any trouble with my heater hose quick connect nipple, and did not remove power steering pump, just unbolted the AC/PS bracket and moved out of the way. As far as the bracket on the passenger side rear, all I did was remove the 2 nuts on top of the Plenum (upper plastic manifold portion) and bent the bracket towards the firewall. Did not remove or cut anything. During the reinstall, just bent back and replaced nuts. Bought a Haynes manual, but never used it. Will post some pics later.
Had 2 friends help. We tore apart everything Friday night, cleaned mating surfaces, installed new water pump and drank a bunch of beers in about 4 1/2 hours. Saturday had everything put back together and had truck running in about 4-5 hours, and drank a bunch of beers. Before I changed the oil, I ran an oil system flush/cleaner. Added to oil with cold engine, idle for 3-5 minutes, than change oil. Not sure how much it did, but for $8, I figured it might help clean things up a little and help get any remaining DexCool out of the system.

Then replaced the fuel pump on my cousins 97 Tahoe. His was more of a pain than the fuel pump on my 99. Differently shaped tanks. In the end it wasn't even his fuel pump, something in the wiring although the wire connections looked to be in great shape.

[ZR800]

Originally Posted by tertiarydog

My intake gasket blew but after there was a water pump leak and thermostat gasket went. The old gasket didn't fit the truck well at all; so I had a new one installed. Here's the problem. After the intake was installed it was still leaking very slowly. The dealership put a pressure test on it which showed nothing. Now the coolant is starting to draw down, but I'm not seeing the leaks. Is the truck burning coolant abnormally. The engine suffered NO damage when the water pump went nor was there any signs of overheating at all. It was caught somewhat early.

For a while, mine only leaked when the truck warmed up. And my pressure test did not reveal any leaks in the short term testing. Did not test overnight.

[CHARLENE MCGHEE]

I have a 96 tahoe and had the intake gaskets replaced 9 months ago, well they are now leaking again. Has anyone else had this problem? This is just to much to have to keep replacing.

[rae61]

I have finished replacing the intake gasket things went very well, the information from
this post was very helpful. Mine was not leaking allot of coolant yet but as soon as
I replace the rad cap thats when I noticed it really started to leak.. Also the the inside
of the oil filler cap had condesation and burnt orange colored film on it.
That is all gone now.

Thanks for all the information.
Rick

[klystron59]

Is your Ac bracket on the right refernce looking at the engine from the bumper?

Do you have a part number for that pulley puller?

I am in the midst of changing the IT manifold. I am AWP for the MS 98000T gaket set. I want to remove the ac bracket inorder to have ample clear work space when I reseat the manifold back onto the block. I welcome your reply

klystron59

[klystron59]

[quote=70camaro]OK.

8- Remove the A/C bracket and P/S pump as a UNIT and set aside. There are 4 bolts in the front, and 2 underneath. You DO NOT need to pull the p/s pulley off!!! You do not need to remove the alternator either.

70 camaro, was the ac bracket on the right or left viewing the engine from the bumper?

This bracket is a real knuckle buster and trap one of the bolts.....real b... Could you elaborate pulling the braket and PS unit as a whole?

I appreciate the reply

Klystron59

[dguy]

Just a quick hint. I did my intake gasket on a 305. Was able to move the air comp. bracket far enough by getting under the truck and loosening two bolts. Saved taking of power steering pulley