AC and Blower quit working, HELP

[tfsbecause7]

I was driving the other day with the AC on and got cold so I turned it off. I tried turning it back on a while later and nothing.

I checked fuses 37 and it is good. And fuse 3 in the engine compartment I can't get it out but it appears to be good. There's a clear window on top. (Can anyone here tell me how to get it out though?) Relay 14 is working I can feel it click.The blower motor works, checked it by hooking it up to the battery.

So far I have replaced the resistor, blower switch and selector switch. On the selector switch I jumped the pur/white wire (#4) to the big purple wire (#1) and the blower came, blew a fuse though so I replaced it. That's is the only time the blower motor has functioned since this started.


I checked the volts on the blower motor and got 11.9 on one side and 0.3 on the other. I also checked the volts as I moved through the selector switch and get 11.88 v on panel and heat but little to no volts on AC, Max AC or def modes. Any ideas what this could be?


I have a 1998 Contour SE zeteck, ATM.

[tfsbecause7]

Found this thread here:

Originally Posted by scrawnyronnie

A/C Heater fan inoperative possible answer
I repaired one not to long ago.The switch,the triple resistor,the connector to the resistor,the fan motor and the relay were all replaced before it came to me.I found low amperage to the blower motor and traced it back to the fuse box.There is a dedicated wire coming in the back of the under dash fuse box from the underhood fuse box.For some reason these have a tendency to melt at the connector and turn black with burn.It can also cause a problem with the fan speed switch burning.Push the button to drop the fuse box down. grab it tight and pull it out of its hinge pin holder.Once it is free you can twist it 90 degrees and look at the wire coming in.they are big red ones .One of those connectors has a smaller wire on it with the big red one.If that connector shows signs of burn you have found your problem.I ran an inline fuse around the out side of the box to the fuse inlet (37) from that big red burned wire.This bypasses the burned connector.Solved it and made it safer too.

The scenario above is what I have. The big red wire going into the back end of the main fuse box (by the driver's side interior panel) is burned out. It has also caused the connector to become burned too. There is also a green wire that uses the same connector going into the fuse box, however the green wire is not burned out.

The quoted poster bypassed the burned connector. But what about the green wire -- keep using the burned connector for the green wire? If I just replace the connector, which I'm inclined to do, I'm wondering if I'm missing any reason that caused the connector & wire to burn out to begin with?

Thoughts?

[flashinback]

Originally Posted by tfsbecause7

Found this thread here:

The scenario above is what I have. The big red wire going into the back end of the main fuse box (by the driver's side interior panel) is burned out. It has also caused the connector to become burned too. There is also a green wire that uses the same connector going into the fuse box, however the green wire is not burned out.

The quoted poster bypassed the burned connector. But what about the green wire -- keep using the burned connector for the green wire? If I just replace the connector, which I'm inclined to do, I'm wondering if I'm missing any reason that caused the connector & wire to burn out to begin with?

Thoughts?

I have a 98 ford contour se and I have the same problem you had. I went to the store, shut my car off. The ac still on high. Got back in and started it up and ac and fan did not work.Did you ever figure out how to fix it because I have already replaced the resistor,relay,fuse, and the on dash switch that turns it on and off, for vent max ect... I was just wondering because I want to fix it asap and can't figure it out. Thanks..

email me at flashinback@aol.com

[flashinback]

Originally Posted by tfsbecause7

Found this thread here:

The scenario above is what I have. The big red wire going into the back end of the main fuse box (by the driver's side interior panel) is burned out. It has also caused the connector to become burned too. There is also a green wire that uses the same connector going into the fuse box, however the green wire is not burned out.

The quoted poster bypassed the burned connector. But what about the green wire -- keep using the burned connector for the green wire? If I just replace the connector, which I'm inclined to do, I'm wondering if I'm missing any reason that caused the connector & wire to burn out to begin with?

Thoughts?

I have a 98 ford contour se and I have the same problem you had. I went to the store, shut my car off. The ac still on high. Got back in and started it up and ac and fan did not work.Did you ever figure out how to fix it because I have already replaced the resistor,relay,fuse, and the on dash switch that turns it on and off, for vent max ect... I was just wondering because I want to fix it asap and can't figure it out. Thanks..

email me at flashinback@aol.com

[beyondloadedSE]

How many miles are on your car? There was two different recalls pertaining to the blower motor. Even though yours isnt working at all, I'm guessing it still falls under one of these.

http://contour.org/FAQ/FAQ.php?s=probs&displayid=23

[flybynight]

um is it still blowing at all? i mean the blower motor on contours is by far the easiest replacement ive ever done but when the blower motor goes on these it tends to melt the fan switch from the back side by the connector, a common problem with most makes and models actually. pull the switch panel out and take off the fan connector and see if its burned or melted. best of luck

[tfsbecause7]

Yes I did get it fixed. It was a burnt connection in the fuse box.

Check the main fuse box wiring harness (it's located on the interior drives side, just under the dash if it's an automatic transmission) Look at the main wiring harness coming into the box. It's on the underside of the fuse box and towards the back when it is closed. There is a green wire and fat red wire coming in. The red wire is known to burn out. If the wire looks brown there's your problem. I looked at that damn box several times before I saw the burnt wire. Someone else had written about it so I looked closer and finally saw it. Anyway, disconnect the battery, pull the connector out of the fuse box and see if the connection is salvageable. Are the pins secure ect. If they are replace the connector. If they aren't you need a new box I guess. Mine was still good. A little melted but functional and safe.

As for the part, there was a recall for the blower motor resistor, it is the exact same connector. Just go to the dealer and get the blower motor recall kit. Here's a link to info on the recall http://www.automotive.com/1998/49/fo...lls/19794.html. The kit costs about $15 in Tallahassee, fl. The dealer wanted to sell/replace the whole wiring harness costing about $1800-2400 if I recall.
Anyway splice the wires together and plug it into the fuse box. Immediately after the repair I drove from Tally to Phoenix AZ in the middle of July. I haven't had any problems what so ever.

If that doesn't fix it check fuse 37 (light green with a 30 rating).in the main fuse box and the relay 14 and the switches

Hope this helps and you haven't already spent a fortune getting it fixed.