Rebuilt transmission now have issues????

[Mustang_Driver]

I had the transmission rebuilt in my van i have put approx 300km on it since rebuild and now it seems that when i drive it the abs light comes on. I am wondering if maybe they damaged the wheel sensor while removing the cv joints to get the transmission out as it also needs a wheel alignment as well afterwards my steering wheel is a little off center now and it was never like that before the transmission shop got it and the shop won't do the wheel alignment and the reason i have put 300km on it is i have new tires on it and don't want to ruin the tires. i don't have an abs decoder to find the issue and all the shops where i live want 100 to pull the codes. the abs light was never on before the shop got it so that wheel sensor is my guess as i am on limited budget i will do doing the work myself

[scubacat]

Most auto parts stores in the US scan codes for free, but I don't know about England. Perhaps give a couple a call and ask. Won't the shop that did the rebuild at least scan it for you?

It could very well be an ABS sensor but you need the code to know which one. They're too expensive to just guess.

[Mustang_Driver]

yeah i am not in England, i am in surrey,bc,canada and getting parts stores to scan codes is a little hit and miss and the place that did the rebuild wants another 80 to scan the codes i am thinking about buying a code reader as i have 2 windstars and it's hard to sell them when dash lights are on.....

anyways thanks for the help

[scubacat]

Sorry, saw Surrey and just assumed

Check eBay for Bluetooth obd2 dongles if you have a laptop. Only certain handheld scanners will pull ABS codes so that may be a more economical and useful option.

[Mustang_Driver]

Any idea why i keep getting this message?i type half a page and i get this The message you have entered is too short. Please lengthen your message to at least 3 characters.

[Mustang_Driver]

okay thanks i will look into one of those dongles but i purchased two off of ebay they were the Blue ELM 327 V2.0 and they connect with everything but FORD i emailed the manufacturer and they pretty much told me it wasn't a malfunction with the device as it is working with other vehicles and if i wanted to ship them back they would issue a refund but the cost of shipping them would have exceeded the original purchase price i paid so they sit in my tool box. I was looking at the INNOVA 3150 Diagnostic Code Reader with ABS/SRS for OBD2 Vehicles but before i drop 150.00 bucks i want to know it works at pulling the codes as they don't sell these in canada anymore and if it does work then 150 isn't a bad deal considering it's 60-80 to pull codes here i might just try and switch the wheel sensor in the front of the van as they aren't too bad in price as it goes in for a wheel alignment this weekend

[scubacat]

I have the innova, myself, and it did read the ford ABS codes just fine when I had a bad sensor. I have the 3160 model which is the same thing I believe but it also captures live data. I haven't compared . But as long as you get one that pulls ABS, it'll work.

(BTW the same thing happened to me with the forum. Must be having issues. Just try again. I do "select all" and "copy" to save what I type now just in case!)

[Mustang_Driver]

Good advice about the copy and paste i always seem to forget i have that feature. But i went out and replaced the aging innova 0303 scanner with the innova 3030g that pulls abs and dtc's boy oh boy didn't see those codes coming...lol but both vans have roughly the same codes except the sport model had 4 extra ones: c1185 c1198 c1194 c1254 c1246 c1250 c1242 c1214 c1210 Sport model must be special: u1260 u1261 u1262 b1318 thanks again for the help i guess i will be looking at 2 abs control modules now instead of 1

[scubacat]

I had the ABS computer rebuilt for $50. The solder joints crack on the circuit board and they just go bonkers like you're seeing.

Be aware that you'll have to pay a shop to electronically cycle the HCU to bleed out the air when you're done. Careful removing the break lines too; use a flare or line wrench and when you reattach them, start them by hand FIRST before tightening them.

[Mustang_Driver]

Yeah it just seems a little funny that i never had an abs issue with the LX until i got it back from the transmission shop now it comes on not all the time but sporadically as after i pulled the codes and i tried to reset the computer and it reset everything now i have to drive it again for a bit to see if it comes on.... just got it home and it seems i left it sit too long as i seem to have a sticky caliper on the drivers side as it heated up and brake pedal got really hard going to the grocery store but after driving it home it seemed ok maybe it was just a glitch i don't know.... this thing it getting to become a money pit i knew i should have put my money into the sport and scrapped the lx but i kind of have a sentimental attachment to it after i got crushed between it and another car in a parking lot december 24,2014 fun times at the hospital on christmas......maybe i'll pull the transmission out and put it in the sport if the price is decent either way i have 2 abs modules to contend with

[tomj76]

The entire subframe has to be removed when a transmission is rebuilt. This might include removal of one or both wheel assembles, although not absolutely required.

I had issues with my ABS, and did not have an ABS code scanner to determine the code. I replaced both front sensors and eliminated the problem.

I found that ABS sensors can't be removed from the front knuckle without damaging them (they seize in the hole by rust from the knuckle). The sensors are nothing more than 1000's of turns of very find magnet wire. The sensor was dc OK (no break in wires) when measured with a DMM.

My theory is the break is intermittent and/or the rust is affecting the magnetic circuit, giving a low or noisy electrical output from the sensor.

[scubacat]

One of the ABS sensors in ours just mysteriously quit working last year. I had the same experience -- it comes out in pieces with about 5000 miles of thin wire unraveling everywhere. Luckily my scan tool told me which one (driver's side, front) so I only had to change the one.

When you get all those codes, though, it's the ABS computer. It seems suspect, but it's probably just a coincidence. It seems like they all have that problem with the solder joints and have to be rebuilt (resoldered).