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Old 03-31-2006, 03:36 PM   #16
muddog321
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Re: BALL JOINT REPLACEMENT HOW TO (w/ pix)

Just want to add that the ABS sensor has an electrical connector about 1.5 feet up on the frame which is the best place to disconnect cause those allen screws may break off if rusted like most. I had to use a puller on the lower ball joint too. Best time to inspect and replace the CV axle too.
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Old 04-03-2006, 11:03 AM   #17
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Re: BALL JOINT REPLACEMENT HOW TO (w/ pix)

Great post! Might be doing this soon!
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Old 08-16-2006, 06:06 PM   #18
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Re: BALL JOINT REPLACEMENT HOW TO (w/ pix)

Hey guys!!
I have a 96' s-10 Blazer and am getting ready to put a 2" Superlift on it. This is a great post as I have never done the ball joints before and I have ordered Moog replacements for mine. Top should be easy as I can install them on the upper control arms that come with the lift kit prior to installing the upper control arms on the truck. The bottoms were replaced before by the previous owner so hopefully those will be a little easier to get out.

Anyway, stupid question, the ball joints simply slide into place, or do you have to press them in with a tool?

I did not see a post or how to in here about installing the Superlift 2" kit, so I'll ge the camera and takes some pictures so hopefully it can someone else down the line

Thanks,
Marcinko
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Old 08-17-2006, 05:18 PM   #19
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Re: BALL JOINT REPLACEMENT HOW TO (w/ pix)

Nice !! and thanks for taking the time out to take the pictures. Pretty soon we will be able to access a complete video libary for part replacement. Thanks again!
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Old 08-17-2006, 05:59 PM   #20
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Re: BALL JOINT REPLACEMENT HOW TO (w/ pix)

re. seating the caliper piston, i remove the 2 caliper bolts, then use a large screwdriver between the outer pad & the caliper & slowly pry the piston back in in a few seconds. (AFTER I remove the master cylinder cap & check the fluid level) no messin' with the c-clamp & piston goes back in straight
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Old 08-17-2006, 08:46 PM   #21
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Re: BALL JOINT REPLACEMENT HOW TO (w/ pix)

Quote:
Originally Posted by y2kblazer
re. seating the caliper piston, i remove the 2 caliper bolts, then use a large screwdriver between the outer pad & the caliper & slowly pry the piston back in in a few seconds. (AFTER I remove the master cylinder cap & check the fluid level) no messin' with the c-clamp & piston goes back in straight
Not smart, you need to push it back evenly, not pry it back and forth so it can jam.

C-clamp is the best method seeing it pushes it back uniformly.
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Old 08-18-2006, 03:28 AM   #22
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Re: BALL JOINT REPLACEMENT HOW TO (w/ pix)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Marcinko
Hey guys!!
I have a 96' s-10 Blazer and am getting ready to put a 2" Superlift on it. This is a great post as I have never done the ball joints before and I have ordered Moog replacements for mine. Top should be easy as I can install them on the upper control arms that come with the lift kit prior to installing the upper control arms on the truck. The bottoms were replaced before by the previous owner so hopefully those will be a little easier to get out.

Anyway, stupid question, the ball joints simply slide into place, or do you have to press them in with a tool?

I did not see a post or how to in here about installing the Superlift 2" kit, so I'll ge the camera and takes some pictures so hopefully it can someone else down the line

Thanks,
Marcinko
The upper ball joints are a press fit and you draw them tight by tightening the nut. The lower ball joints are a little different. Do not install the grease fitting until it is seated into the lower control arm. Use a jackstand with a small block on it so the weight of the vehicle is on bottom of the ball joint. Make sure it is started straight then use about a 4lb sledge and hit down on the lower control arm around the ball joint until it seats all the way in. Don't forget to have an alignment done after you are done.
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Last edited by wilfie27; 09-10-2006 at 06:31 PM.
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Old 08-23-2006, 05:29 PM   #23
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Re: BALL JOINT REPLACEMENT HOW TO (w/ pix)

lt, if you go at the center of the pad, on the outside (non-piston side)of the rotor it can only go in straight.
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Old 08-28-2006, 05:11 PM   #24
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Re: BALL JOINT REPLACEMENT HOW TO (w/ pix)

I don't know if I even want to fool with something like this or not. I am due for all ball-joints to be replaced. :/
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Old 08-28-2006, 07:50 PM   #25
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Re: BALL JOINT REPLACEMENT HOW TO (w/ pix)

It really isn't all that bad to do them, it just takes some time and patience. Plan on a whole day to do all four. The biggest pain is chiseling out the old rivets - if you have access to an air chisel it makes it easier.
I ended up pulling the hubs to have better access to the lower ball joints - but it isn't required. Keep in mind that if you are doing it have the 36mm socket on hand for the axle nut.
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Old 08-30-2006, 07:55 PM   #26
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Re: BALL JOINT REPLACEMENT HOW TO (w/ pix)

Yes that was a nice thread a some very good pictures too. The part where you was pounding the pickle fork with the hammer on the bottom ones tryung to break them loose, I know everyone don't have compressed air but get one of those forks and a air impact driver cuts out alot of work. Once agan nice thread.
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Old 10-31-2006, 10:19 PM   #27
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Re: BALL JOINT REPLACEMENT HOW TO (w/ pix)

Before you start removing your ball joints do you have to unload your torsion bars?
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Old 11-01-2006, 05:09 PM   #28
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Re: BALL JOINT REPLACEMENT HOW TO (w/ pix)

You do not need to unload your torsion bars.
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Old 11-01-2006, 05:31 PM   #29
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Re: BALL JOINT REPLACEMENT HOW TO (w/ pix)

all you do is support the unload the steering knuckle by placing jackstands under the lower control arms then you can take them apart
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Old 11-01-2006, 06:36 PM   #30
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Re: BALL JOINT REPLACEMENT HOW TO (w/ pix)

So if I were going to go as far as to replace control arm bushings at the same time while I have things apart, then would I need to unload the torsion bars? Could I unload them by breakign the balljoints free while a jack is supporting the lower control arm, then lower the jack to relieve the tension?
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